Anyone near central NC with a 22 revolver reamer?

cmichini

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Is there anyone near the NC area (I'm in Charlotte) who has a 22 revolver finish reamer that would let borrow/rent it, or allow me to travel so we can put ito use on my M17?

In an earlier thread, I lamented my M17 with tight chambers.
After going down the cleaning and mild polishing avenues, I think a finish reamer is my solution.

However, I only have one 22 revolver and, being a little of an older guy, don't think I'll be amassing more that will justify the cost of the tools. Also, I love this gun and am not a smith, so I'd welcome the expertise as well.

I'd buy any supplies, compensate you for the use of the tool & knowledge.

Thanks!
 
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I have a .22 finish reamer that I will ship to you at no cost. All you need to do is: 1. Send it back when you have finished with it, and :2 search this forum for the very excellent thread which provides detailed instructions on the subject task. I did my .22s and have loaned it to others. All I have to do is find it, and ship to your address. PM if you wish. I'm in Maryland
Ray

P.S. OTOH: Remove the cylinder and send it to me, I will ream it at no cost and mail it back to you free.
 
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I have a .22 finish reamer that I will ship to you at no cost. All you need to do is: 1. Send it back when you have finished with it, and :2 search this forum for the very excellent thread which provides detailed instructions on the subject task. I did my .22s and have loaned it to others. All I have to do is find it, and ship to your address. PM if you wish. I'm in Maryland
Ray

P.S. OTOH: Remove the cylinder and send it to me, I will ream it at no cost and mail it back to you free.

I'll PM you. Thanks so much!!
 
Hi, before you do the job yourself check out a local machine shop. I just had mine done by a local shop at the cost of $50.00. better than buying a reamer that I was only going to use once. If anything happens to the cylinder it is on them. If you screw up it is on you. If you purchase on of your own it is a .228 dia.they can be costly.
 
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I have to thank Marylander, who was very generous and gracious to offer to either lend me the reamer or do the procedure for me.
I opted to send him the cylinder and he quickly turned it around and he wouldn’t even let me pay the return postage.

A quick plunk test showed rounds dropping in smoothly (first time ever!!), and I’m waiting for an opportunity to see how spent casing eject.

I also applied my first screwdriver to a revolver (other than grip screws), successfully (I have a set of Chapman drivers).

I’ll update when I get my range test done, but I wanted to call out Marylander for his generosity.
 
Tight chambers are good for accuracy I personally would find ammo that fits the tight chambers or chamber for a specific ammo but I hope your gun shoots better for you !

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I have done all mine with no drop in accuracy and nobody here who has done theirs reports accuracy loss. I now have a ransom rest and if I ever do another I will do a before and after test using it. Your statement may be true with a bolt action, but with the multiple chambers of a cylinder, each with its own lock up, a barrel gap and forcing cone nor so much. Plus, a bolt has the camming action to close and then extract on a tight chamber where a revolver does not. Having to was on your ejector rod to eject sucks as does being limited to a few types of ammo. While S&W revolvers, with or without reamed cylinders are capable of being extremely accurate most completion is fired with semi autos.
 
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I have done all mine with no drop in accuracy and nobody here who has done theirs reports accuracy loss. I now have a ransom rest and if I ever do another I will do a before and after test using it. Your statement may be true with a bolt action, but with the multiple chambers of a cylinder, each with its own lock up, a barrel gap and forcing cone nor so much. Plus, a bolt has the camming action to close and then extract on a tight chamber where a revolver does not. Having to was on your ejector rod to eject sucks as does being limited to a few types of ammo. While S&W revolvers, with or without reamed cylinders are capable of being extremely accurate most completion is fired with semi autos.
I'm referring to my freedom arms revolvers mostly my chambers are snug enough you have to seat the rounds with a wood dowel if it works in a freedom gun same applies to Smith's but it doesn't mean they wont shoot well I'm just getting ready to shoot my 617 right now I hope it shoots !!

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I have done all mine with no drop in accuracy and nobody here who has done theirs reports accuracy loss. I now have a ransom rest and if I ever do another I will do a before and after test using it. Your statement may be true with a bolt action, but with the multiple chambers of a cylinder, each with its own lock up, a barrel gap and forcing cone nor so much. Plus, a bolt has the camming action to close and then extract on a tight chamber where a revolver does not. Having to was on your ejector rod to eject sucks as does being limited to a few types of ammo. While S&W revolvers, with or without reamed cylinders are capable of being extremely accurate most completion is fired with semi autos.
I'm only referring to revolvers I do have one chamber in my freedom revolver that's tough ejecting but I just will keep polishing a little at a time until it frees up a little but I would prefer tough ejection and better accuracy of course if you shooting a match that can be a issue but if your hunting squirrel or bunnies not such a big issue I'm also not trying to say my way is the right way or the only way of course.

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I'm referring to my freedom arms revolvers mostly my chambers are snug enough you have to seat the rounds with a wood dowel if it works in a freedom gun same applies to Smith's but it doesn't mean they wont shoot well I'm just getting ready to shoot my 617 right now I hope it shoots !!

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Most of the time the issue is ejecting empties not insert unfired rounds.
 
:DI wanted to spend my time loading my guns with wooden dowels I would stick to my muzzle loaders too.:D

Actually, I have only gotten a few real fine cuttings. I firmly believe that the guns with real tight chambers were those done when the reamer was actually worn past its true life. A cylinder done with brand new reamers will be "looser" than one done reamers that have done say 500 cylinders. I have 2 Cylmer 45 colt reamers and one of them cuts tighter chambers than the other. .0002 can make a difference.

I have done 6 cylinders all have varying amounts of cuttings. My 18-4 gave hardly any and previously I had fired hundreds of rounds through it between cleanings with no problems other guns were different.
 
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S&W 22 chambers

I would sure agree with Steelslaver, I have done several of mine and it is a pleasure to shoot them now.
What surprised me is I had only one S&W that did not benefit from having it checked/done, of the 4-5 I own, I bought it used and believe it may have already been done, Now, several Colts I have,they were all fine as is, as was a Tauras I owned that is older 70/'s /80's and almost a dead ringer for a Model 17 it was fine, I gave that one to my grandson, he loves shooting it, but the worst was my Dan Wesson, it was of the type you need a "wooden dowel" for like the other poster said, and I am also of the mind that its nothing but worn out reamers thats the issue, I have a Manson brand reamer and it does nothing but make them exactly as they should have been in the first place.
Most have been just a bit of steel dust that comes out but its enough to make all the difference, the Dan Wesson a LOT of steel dust, oily dust that is, after the reaming. I had forgotten I owned it, I bought it for a cheap price (I wonder why) and now I truly enjoy shooting it.Other than the Dan Wesson
which as I said was terrible, the S&W's could all be shot, but were tiresome and it took away much of the fun to have to work hard to shoot them, none now feel at all "loose" or anything, they just now work much better.
 
After the range test, the results were like night and day.

Rounds dropped right in, they didn’t before with any ammo, and ejected easily again and again. One chamber got a little sticky - after about 150 rounds through it, but that’s no biggie compared to the ‘before’.

Accuracy was still still good at least to my non-professional skills. Taking this to the range used to feel like an obligation because I liked the thought of shooting it, but felt dissatisfied after the range trip. Now I’m looking forward to dropping it in my bag. I’ll also feel good about offering folks to try out a 22 revolver and be confident I may make a convert to the wheel gun.

Bottom line is I couldn’t be happier to have it in the front line to hit the range going forward.

Thanks again to Marylander for his generous help.

Cheers!
 
I have done several S&W 22 caliber revolvers. I noticed that some had shavings near the area that the reamer touched the extractor star. I surmised that some of the extraction problems might have been from the extractor might not have been truly lined up with the charge holes.
After firing the case swells slightly and if the star is not lined up with the charge hole more effort is required to extract fire casing.
 

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