Extractor rod loosening correction

[DWalt]

I have a K-frame that, despite the extractor rod having the later left-hand thread, persists in loosening at every opportunity and making the cylinder difficult to open. I have thought about putting a dab of Lock-tite on the threads, but I am not sure I really want to go that far. Any good suggestions about how to prevent the rod unscrewing but without making it difficult to remove in the future if the need arises?

 

[tlawler]

I don't have a solution, but I'm following to see if someone comes up with something. I've got a couple that do the same thing, most notably my ND 610. I've gotten to the point that I check it after every ten clips or so.

 

[armorer951]

Pre-cleaning the threads on the rod and inside the extractor stem seems to work well without any thread locker. Also, having the proper tool to tighten the assembly makes the connection much stronger when properly tightened. (be sure to back up the extractor by installing some empty casings in the cylinder)

One of the instructors at the armorer's school suggested filing the jaws of a Vise Grip tool very smooth, and applying them near the base of the rod close to the cylinder face with a suitable protective cover, like a piece of card stock or a business card.

I've been using them now for 40+ years.

Another option is a good quality, spare drill chuck (or drill press chuck) that can be mounted on the extractor rod and tightened by hand.

 

[SS336]

Here's a couple of suggestions that have worked for me. First clean all the oil off both the male and female threads and tighten. That usually works.
Next I have used a very small drop of clear fingernail polish on just the male threads, let it dry, then reassemble.
I am sure there will be more advice that might help.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Clean both threads well, then use #222 low strength LocTite to reassemble. This one and the blue medium strength #242 can both be undone with no heat. It won't take much to keep it from coming undone once it's clean and tight. Too much clearance between the male and female threads is usually the problem.

 

[pantannojack]

Be careful to not tighten too much. It tends to bend the rod slightly.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Tightening too much strips the threads. The rods often seem to be bent because they often get slightly off straight at the threaded connection due to the clearance between the mating parts.

 

[ms]

I had this problem in the past, and actually tried (with spare parts, and youth's caution, to strip one). After realizing the force required, I tighten to maybe half of that, and have not had one come loose, even after4 hundreds of rounds.

 

[chief38]

Whenever this has occurred I have solved the issue like so.....

Use a drill press chuck (unplug drill so motor can not start by accident). Chuck the ejector rod firmly (beyond the knurling so it doesn't get ruined) and use 3 empty cases on the cylinder to keep pins and extractor from being damaged. Turn clockwise (if after thread change around 1957) and loosen up. Take assembly apart, clean with a toothbrush, dry and reassemble in opposite manner (again, use 3 empty cases) by holding the chuck and turning the cylinder the opposite way. Make it firmly tight but NOT "gorilla tight" so the threads don't get stripped! These are very fine threads and can be easily ruined. In the 45 years I've been doing this procedure, I've never had one loosen up again by accident after doing so.

NOTE: Make sure the chuck is a good quality chuck and tighten firmly so that the E/R does not spin and mark up with turning scratches. Again, do not "Gorilla tighten" the chuck - just firmly using all three chuck key points so it is even. Works like a charm every time!

 

[pantannojack]

I find no problem with inspecting rod firmness often when opening cylinder window.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

You don't have to use a drill with a keyed chuck.

I've used my DeWalt portable drill with a keyless chuck to loosen unbelievably tight extractor rods, & conversely tighten up the ones that like to loosen up on their own, easily with this style of a chuck.

As mentioned, double check your orientation when loosening a stuck rod this way so your don't make things worse by going the wrong way.

.

 

[John Patrick]

Using a dedicated tool which clamps the rod and has "ears" on both side of the rod so you apply equal torque on each side, preventing bending the rod, along with has worked on a several revolvers that had this issue.

Iirc, Brownell's sell a tool.

 

[Pisgah]

Solution? How about just making a habit of checking ejector-rod tightness regularly?It's been so long ago that I can't remember when I last had an ejector rod come loose and tie up the gun -- but it only happened once, because after that I knew that checking tightness was a regular part of maintenance.

 

[jimmyj]

Brownells offers a tool for this. Mine is a round disk with a hole in the middle for the rod to slip though, and then a screw that you tighten to keep the rod from turning and then you just turn the disk to tighten or loosen

 

[cmansguns]

Best solution I've found so far

I had the same problem some years ago with Model 34-1 and with Model 17-3. Usually after a plinking day with multiple family shooters, both DA and SA. Got real tired of having to clear and attempt tightening at the range.

Found a specialized tool made specifically for J, K and N Frame S&W extractor rods. Very neat, fits perfectly, and following directions to just "tighten with the Visesmith until it feels "snug". Do not overtighten."

I only had Loctite 271 Red (DO NOT USE THIS !!!) and a small bottle of Stalok 500 Yellow (Medium strength) thread locker on hand in the shop so I did use a "wee drop" of the Stalok and have had no more issues, even with 5 or 6 boxes (300 rounds) and the accompanying dirt from 22LR ignition.

PS: I did have occasion to need to finish ream the cylinder for "tight" chamber issues, and the Stalok released without any problems, no heat or excessive force required.

I can't recall where I got this tool but it had to have been either Midway or Brownells several years ago.

Worked for me.

 

[steelslaver]

Go to some pawn shops and find a cheap 3/8" or 1/2" drill that uses a key to tighten the chuck, remove the chuck from the drill and put it with your gun tools. Most of them you need to remove a left hand thread screw you need to access by having the chuck wide open, then screw chuck off end of drill. Or you can just cut it off right behind chuck using a thin disk on a 4 1/2" angle grinder.

 

[chief38]

The reason I suggest using a Drill Press is because the Chuck is firmly mounted it is very steady and will not deviate from perfectly plumb - just one less thing to worry about. Yes a portable drill, special clamp that goes into Vice Gripe, etc. will also work, but they are just not as rigid and steady.

My suggestion would be that if you are using a corded drill motor or battery operated version, either make sure the drill is not plugged in and / or remove the battery, this way the drill can not accidentally spin. If you do have a special clamp that fits into a vise grip, put the vise grip into a bench vise - again, just for a more steady set up.

 

[DWalt]

I tried the clear nail polish on the threads method, and I believe it should work okay. The rod loosens and tightens stiffly enough that it shouldn't be able to unscrew on its own as it did before. It had been very loose, and needed to be screwed back in after every firing of a full cylinder to open it. I thought the whole idea behind using LH threads was to prevent that from happening. If so, it sure didn't work on my revolver.

 

[serger]

One of the tricks my father used was Karo
syrup. It works well as a thread locker and
is water soluble or with isopropol alcohol.

All his weaver scope mounts were done
with Karo. 1940's old school.

 

[DWalt]

I have heard of using tincture of Iodine as a thread locker. But I believe it is permanent. Have never tried it for that reason. Has anyone else heard of that?