2 piece barrels

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Anyone have any tips or tricks on how to remove the two piece barrel from a S&W? I’m ‘trying’ to remove the barrel from a 2.75# (sic) Model 66-8 but accept for diameter/caliber they should be the same.

Oh, how about getting the brass rod out that snapped off flush with the muzzle... :rolleyes:
 
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I don't have clue about removing the barrel. However, I'm pretty sure that a wadcutter behind it would launch it. :eek: Or, maybe just a primer ;)
 
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To bad s&w could not copy the DW revolvers with there barrel and shroud combo's . Changing barrels and shrouds is a 2 or 3 minutes deal and set the gap how you want it .

Why or how is this brass rod so tight it would not fall out ! ?

Drill and tap for a machine screw to pull on the rod with ?
 
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With something other than an identical brass rod (LOL), tap the stuck brass rod carefully "in" (into the cylinder window), then cut the section off being careful not to mar the frame. Repeat until the stub end falls out.

I can also envision setting up blocks and a cross-piece along with a rod going up the barrel from the forcing cone end, and tapping down on the muzzle with something (piece of wood with a hole in the middle?).
 
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I think we need pictures of this adventure....
I'll take some tomorrow.

I suppose the first question we should ask is: "Do you want the barrel to survive?" :cool:
It would be nice so I could still have the .357 barrel and cylinder but the plan is to make a .22 barrel and cylinder for it.

Found this pic of a 'special insertion tool but S&W support says, "Unfortunately, we do not have a tool to remove Barrels.", which I find hard to believe.

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To bad s&w could not copy the DW revolvers with there barrel and shroud combo's . Changing barrels and shrouds is a 2 or 3 minutes deal and set the gap how you want it .
Agreed!

Why or how is this brass rod so tight it would not fall out ! ?
3/8 diameter rod machined down to .358" to fit the grooves. Worked well pounding it in, lands cut grooves in the rod to fit barrel well. It just snapped when trying to turn barrel off.

Drill and tap for a machine screw to pull on the rod with ?
I tried drilling undersized hole and then pounding an allen wrench in but it just rounded the hole when turned it.
Good idea. I'll try that, like a stuck case removal tool for reloading dies.
 
With something other than an identical brass rod (LOL), tap the stuck brass rod carefully "in" (into the cylinder window), then cut the section off being careful not to mar the frame. Repeat until the stub end falls out.

I can also envision setting up blocks and a cross-piece along with a rod going up the barrel from the forcing cone end, and tapping down on the muzzle with something (piece of wood with a hole in the middle?).

More good ideas.
 
To drive a lead piece to measure a barrel diameter, you use a heavy hammer 4 lb or so, with light blows. A light hammer 12 oz or so will stick things badly. I assume the same principle is at work here.

Invert it and lube with Kroil or similar first.
 
I recall one of the major grumbling points when this style of barrel was introduced was the factory not selling disassembly tools. I also recall some smart Forum member(s) making a workaround but cannot recall exactly when.

Edit to add: Perhaps it involved making a Cerrosafe barrel mold?
 
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My guess as to why S&W did not copy the Dan Wesson system is CZ USA. EWK Arms was making replacement barrels, shrouds, and assorted small parts for the Dan Wesson 15-2 and 715, until served with a cease and desist order by CZ USA, owner of the rights to the Dan Wesson design.
 
My guess as to why S&W did not copy the Dan Wesson system is CZ USA. EWK Arms was making replacement barrels, shrouds, and assorted small parts for the Dan Wesson 15-2 and 715, until served with a cease and desist order by CZ USA, owner of the rights to the Dan Wesson design.

That’s interesting! I had not heard that.
I would’ve thought that whatever patent existed had long ago expired.
Certainly, though, S&W could’ve devised an alternative. I think they just don’t want people to have that option. Kind of like cars that are designed to force owners to obtain servicing from authorized dealers.

Back to the OP, a little searching suggests this is a common question. I have not seen any solid examples of a workable solution. On the Brian Enos Forum, someone did suggest exactly the method attempted by the OP.
Of course, in typical internet fashion, this “information”, despite claims to it’s efficacy, lacked anything proving it worked.
 
I’ll bet they put a lot of torque on those. Can they be reused, and if so how would you install them?

I don’t get the idea that they set the BC gap in the process but who knows.

As far as getting it out, maybe drill thorough it - might relieve stress as well- then use some all thread and rig it up like a gear puller.
 
I believe they use a lot of torque, it wouldn't budge and I have seen cracked frames due to over tightening.

I would hope they can be reused. I would think you would install it the same way you remove it. S&W was no help, unless I send it in to them and be without it for six plus weeks..

Lots of things to try tomorrow. I want the barrel off, period. But I'd like to keep the shroud and frame undamaged. If I break the barrel, I'll have to get another.
 
I vaguely remember an article by Alex Hamilton in American Handgunner. He plugged the forcing cone then filled the barrel with cerrosafe while inserting brass square stock attached to a big tap wrench. After removing the barrel he melted out the cerrosafe. Maybe search there archives.
 
Found this pic of a 'special insertion tool but S&W support says, "Unfortunately, we do not have a tool to remove Barrels.", which I find hard to believe.

It'd the same tool used to install barrels. I expect the decision is to keep folks from unauthorized alterations that some lawyers deem dangerous. There's at least one pic on here in threads on two piece barrels that show a barrel nut very similar to the DW system.

ETA: of all places there's a piece by some gun smith on the Sig forum on shortening the barrel on a 460/500 to 6 inches that might be of some interest.
 
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After looking at the drawing of the install tool I don't believe it will work as a removal tool unless you can find a way to "reverse lock it". Some kind of jam nut or interference sleeve. Midwest Gun supplies did have shrouds for sale at one time but never saw a barrel.
 
Certainly it is designed for install, but the twist pitch looks pretty shallow - I suspect it would remove as well.

They don’t show the far end of the tool; a simple threaded hole there would let you “lock it in” with a bolt/washer.
 
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