2 piece barrels

[gunbarrel]

First of all, I don't know anything about gunsmithing; so, I cannot give subject advice on barrel removal. However, I did a Forum search and I found the following that may, or may not be helpful to you.

Revolver barrel removal
---------------------------
***attempting a do-it-yourself re-barrel job is a very fast way to ruin a good gun***

Revolver barrel removal

2 PIECE BARREL CAME APART!
----------------------------------

2 PIECE BARREL CAME APART

TWO PIECE BARREL?
-----------------------
TWO PIECE BARREL?

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I assume that your cleaning rod had a brass brush on it when it broke flush with the muzzle? IF IT WAS MINE, I would fill the bore with bore solvent, or some kind of penetrating oil (like Kroil, or Silikroil) and let the brass brush sit in it for a day, or so before I attempted to take it out. I would first go to their website and consult with them before using it.

Just a moment...

Just a moment...

Good luck!

 

[snw19_357]

I think we need pictures of this adventure...

For everyone's amusement.

Super clean sheer right at the muzzle. Brass too soft, wrong alloy?

Drill and tap didn't work. Threads stripped out when force applied, about the same force it took to snap rod. Brass too soft, wrong alloy?

Barrel and threaded portion of frame filled with penetrating oil. It'll probably turn off by hand tomorrow...

 

[-BTM-]

For everyone's amusement.

Super clean sheer right at the muzzle. Brass too soft, wrong alloy?

Drill and tap didn't work. Threads stripped out when force applied, about the same force it took to snap rod. Brass too soft, wrong alloy?

Barrel and threaded portion of frame filled with penetrating oil. It'll probably turn off by hand tomorrow...

How was the force applied?

 

[snw19_357]

How was the force applied?

Rod held securely in a vise (it didn't turn at all) and the revolver's frame in the correct frame wrench for a S&W K and turned the wrench, snap.

 

[hardluk1]

Cut the barrel and shroud OFF and remove . Maybe vise grips on the barrels ! MGW has a number of choices for model ,length and cartridge ,new parts .
Might just have to chalk your barrel problem up as a learning experience .

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/smith-and-wesson/barrels.html#/filter:model:Smith$2520$2526$2520Wesson$2520$2522N$2522$2520Frame

 

[Yendor357]

My guess is just as bad as anyone else’s, but….

The part about penetrating oil was a joke, right? Because penetrating oil isn’t going to do anything.

I think you get that brass rod out the same way it went in. I would take the snapped off section of the left over brass rod, and turn it down a bit. I’d take the cylinder off the gun. Figure out how to hold the frame in a vice and start tapping with a small sledge.
Having drilled the end of the inserted brass rod may have helped. But then again, maybe not.
If/when you get that brass rod to move the first 1/8 of an inch, you’re home free.

 

[6string]

I would drill a hole through the brass with as big a bit as I dare. Then, try opening that hole with a dremel, again being careful not to go through the side of brass rod.
The brass rod will then essentially be a brass shell.
It should then easily come out, if not crack, by pounding it out.
In fact, tapping it out might be a better term.
For that, I’d use a 3/8” maple dowel turned down to .350”.

 

[snw19_357]

Cut the barrel and shroud OFF and remove .
... Might just have to chalk your barrel problem up as a learning experience .

Hoping that's my last resort. One of the first videos I found when searching was someone 'shortening' a .500S&W barrel. Cut the front sight off and the shroud came right off.
Never learned anything from doing it right the first time!
Funny that it was way easier to sleeve and gage a 1980 barrel than it is to remove a 2020's barrel.

MGW has a number of choices for model ,length and cartridge ,new parts .

Saw that. Was planning on getting a shroud so I could remark the caliber but I may have to get two, and a .357 barrel.

The part about penetrating oil was a joke, right? Because penetrating oil isn’t going to do anything.

Was it? Maybe 'penetrating oil' was the wrong term but whatever you want to call "Strike Hold CDLP" it sure worked and has on everything I've tried it on.
Let it soak, seep through overnight and this morning the first strike with a 5/16" rod pushed it halfway into the barrel. After that, three taps and it was out.

 

[Yendor357]

You said the barrel and threaded portion of the frame filled with penetrating oil. It’ll probably turn off by hand tomorrow.

You made it sound like the barrel was going to come off by hand tomorrow. At least that’s the way I took it.

At any rate you did in principle what I suggested. So I get to be right, and you get your gun unstuck. lol That’s a win/win.

Seriously, Glad you got it. Good job.

 

[snw19_357]

So very true. i did write that and did soak threaded portion of frame. I'm soaking it tonight too.
i didn't get to try taking the barrel off today and didn't want to hammer another rod into the barrel and break it the same day I got the other one out.

 

[FivePews]

My hat's off to you for the effort OP. I have a few newer Smiths with fixed sights and clocked barrels...and I'd be lying if I told you I haven't been dreaming of a way to straighten them on my own.

Someday, somebody will sell me a "wrench" that slides into those grooves to "de-clock" those pistols. In the mean time, I'll just keep putting red dots on them.

 

[gunbarrel]

Yesss!!! Chemistry at work )) of Congrats!

 

[steelslaver]

If I wanted to remove a 2 piece barrel I would plug the forcing cone stick a 1/4" Allen wrench down the barrel heat the barrel up to about 180f then pour it full of low temp solder. Let it cool, clamp the Allen wrench in a vise and then turn the frame off. The heat the barrel up and pour out the solder. You can get lots of solders that melt below 180f

 

[steelslaver]

PS I don't think the 2 piece barrels would need higher torque than the one piece ones.

 

[snw19_357]

Agreed. They wouldn't need a higher torque but maybe because they no longer need to clock the front sight they might not pay attention?
It's stainless steel too and my experiences with stainless threads is that without some lube or grease, especially after being heated and cooled repeatedly, they like to 'weld' together and gall when removed.

Thanks to steelslayer and moosedog (same idea, different material) I finally got the barrel off but it became more difficult to turn it off (not easier) the closer I got to getting it out. The threads on the barrel end are damaged so I expect the frame needs to be cleaned up (i hope) but silly me, the threads are .562x36 (l-frame) and not .540x36 (K) so none of the barrels or tap i had handy did me any good...

Anybody have an L-frame tap I could borrow, or suggest where i might find one? Checked Brownell's and TK Custom with no luck and no way to backorder, etc.

 

[steelslaver]

.9/16 is .5625 and there are 9/16 36 taps and dies available on eBay. That's where I got mine

 

[snw19_357]

There sure are. I always forget about them. Thanks

 

[Protocall_Design]

Check out victornet.com for all kinds of different size and thread pitch taps and dies. Good quality, low price, too.

 

[Yendor357]

19, would you take a few more pics?

I’d love to see what it looks like when taken apart.

 

[snw19_357]

This project got moved to the back burner while I wait for my tap to come in but here's a couple pics.

Frame with barrel removed. two little tabs to keep the shroud aligned out in front. Threads not looking too healthy...

...and the threads on the barrel...