45 ACP for revolvers
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The same crimp (taper) you use for an auto is fine with use in a revolver. Now, you can get some 45 auto rim brass and do not need to use moon clips.
APC dies taper crimp and revolver dies roll crimp. You can use your ACP dies to make ammo for your revolver. You may have some issues with bullets migrating when firing your revolver. All that means is the taper crimp isn't holding the bullet. Has to do with cartridges being in a cylinder and not a magazine. The solution is to crimp your loads a bit more for your revolver. If you use worn out brass the brass sometimes gets work hardened which causes it not to size correctly, thus neck tension becomes a problem. I size with a single stage press and can feel a worn out case. I just throw those away. Neck tension with 45 APC and a revolver can be an issue. Sometimes bullet dia. can be an issue also. Sometimes lead bullets will be somewhere between .451 and .452. That's not good for revolver loads. I've had some like that from a well known company. You want to make sure you get .452. A good company is Bayou bullets for .452. FMJ doesn't seem to create those problems but I'm not sure why.
For that reason I use a factory crimp die. It's totally doable with some experience. I have a 625-8 and load for it.
For that reason I use a factory crimp die. It's totally doable with some experience. I have a 625-8 and load for it.
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I use the same taper crimped reloads in my series 70 and with moon clips in my 325PD. No issues at all.
hyena
Member
I use SMS coated 230gr bullets taper crimped in my 45 ACP loads. Same load in my semi auto's as in my Pitbull revolver. No issues.
Walter Rego
Member
If you are only going to use the dies to reload for the revolver and not in addition to reloading for a 1911 type pistol that you may own, you can use the cylinder as a go/no go gauge or headspace gauge.
Set up the dies to apply a tiny bit of crimp at a time until the loaded round will just barely drop into the chamber and headspace on the shelf inside the chamber. Kind of like doing the "plunk test" using a .45 Automatic barrel to check the dimensions of your reloads.
Set up the dies to apply a tiny bit of crimp at a time until the loaded round will just barely drop into the chamber and headspace on the shelf inside the chamber. Kind of like doing the "plunk test" using a .45 Automatic barrel to check the dimensions of your reloads.
You'll find your reloading chores a bit easier when you use 45 Auto Rim brass. I use it exclusively for a 625.
I think if I were starting over I would buy the Auto Rim brass and forget the moon clips. When I started I had a mountain of regular 45 ACP brass and didn't want to spend .20 a pop for brass but I can see the advantage.
The 45ACP dies will taper crimp, but typically not roll crimp. I've never had a problem with bullet migration in my 625, but, as noted above, a bit depends on bullet size, brass age and how much your dies crimp.
I shoot the 45 acp in moon clips in my 25-2. Fantastically accurate gun. Primarily shoot a 200 gr. SWC lead over 4.3 gr. 231. Taper crimp works just fine.
For many years I have run the same taper crimped 45 acp through both my auto and my 45 acp revolvers with ZERO problems. It's a non issue.....Go forth an shoot happily.
DeplorabusUnum
Member
I load 45 ACP for my 25-2 and 1911. I load differently for the two guns. The 1911 gets bullets sized to 452 and the revolver gets 4555 because the throats all size at 455. The 4555 loads won't cycle in my 1911.
Also the moon clips are a hassle to load and unload. I did make a moon clip tool which makes it easier, but still a hassle. I ended up getting a couple hundred 45 auto rim cases thinking that would eliminate the hassle, but it just presented a new one. The auto rim cases have a base that's way taller than all the other brass I reload, so it won't fit in my RCBS hand primer. Therefore, to re-prime the auto rim brass I have to do it with the clunky priming system that attaches to my RCBS rock chucker press. Still less of a bother than the moon clips but just know that if you use a hand primer for your brass, the 45 auto rim brass likely won't fit. If you prime on a press, you're good to go. You will need a different sized shell holder for the 45 auto rim if you go that route.
Having said all of that, I still thoroughly enjoy shooting the 25-2. I shoot it way more than my 1911. I taper crimp the same for both, and have never had a problem.
Also the moon clips are a hassle to load and unload. I did make a moon clip tool which makes it easier, but still a hassle. I ended up getting a couple hundred 45 auto rim cases thinking that would eliminate the hassle, but it just presented a new one. The auto rim cases have a base that's way taller than all the other brass I reload, so it won't fit in my RCBS hand primer. Therefore, to re-prime the auto rim brass I have to do it with the clunky priming system that attaches to my RCBS rock chucker press. Still less of a bother than the moon clips but just know that if you use a hand primer for your brass, the 45 auto rim brass likely won't fit. If you prime on a press, you're good to go. You will need a different sized shell holder for the 45 auto rim if you go that route.
Having said all of that, I still thoroughly enjoy shooting the 25-2. I shoot it way more than my 1911. I taper crimp the same for both, and have never had a problem.
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I only reload for 45 Auto Rim in my 625 and 1950 Army revolvers.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
I have a 625, a Brazilian Contract 1917, 5-1911's and 2- Sig220's (and a Marlin Camp 45). I use one load for every application except SD. 200grain cast RNFP, 5.5 grains WW231, WLP primer, mixed brass. I load these in batches of 3 to 5 thousand on a progressive press, but I did this same load on a single stage for years before that.
Taper crimp is what 45ACP was designed to use, if you are using an ACP type load stick with what Colonel Thompson designed. If you are using a Revolver SWC type bullet that was designed to be roll crimped, use a roll crimp. I load the 200 RNFP in my 45 Colt load for revolvers and lever action rifles WITH A TAPER CRIMP and have never had a problem with overall length changes. (Been doing the correct crimp for the bullet design since 1979 without a single problem!)
The only revolver I used Auto Rim cases in was one that the cylinder walls had corroded and ended up bigger than the rim end mouth!, I had to knock them out individually using a pencil.
Otherwise I use clips. When I started, WWI surplus half moon clips were all you could find! Now I use full moons exclusively! The extractor grove has a standard dimension so they all work, some do work a little better. Loading and unloading tools help extend the life of your clips.
Since I own around 225 full moon clips, I keep SD loads and practice loads clipped all the time (in marked ammo cans). When I load a clip in advance, I drop it in a cylinder close it and make sure it rotates, then store it. Range time isn't when you want to find out they bind.
Ivan
Taper crimp is what 45ACP was designed to use, if you are using an ACP type load stick with what Colonel Thompson designed. If you are using a Revolver SWC type bullet that was designed to be roll crimped, use a roll crimp. I load the 200 RNFP in my 45 Colt load for revolvers and lever action rifles WITH A TAPER CRIMP and have never had a problem with overall length changes. (Been doing the correct crimp for the bullet design since 1979 without a single problem!)
The only revolver I used Auto Rim cases in was one that the cylinder walls had corroded and ended up bigger than the rim end mouth!, I had to knock them out individually using a pencil.
Otherwise I use clips. When I started, WWI surplus half moon clips were all you could find! Now I use full moons exclusively! The extractor grove has a standard dimension so they all work, some do work a little better. Loading and unloading tools help extend the life of your clips.
Since I own around 225 full moon clips, I keep SD loads and practice loads clipped all the time (in marked ammo cans). When I load a clip in advance, I drop it in a cylinder close it and make sure it rotates, then store it. Range time isn't when you want to find out they bind.
Ivan
I have several 45acp revolver use regular 45 acp ammo and dies and I have never had one get tied up from bullet jump even in my light 325s.
I have never used auto rim as in my mind it goes against the best part of acp revolvers, Reloads. That and easy brass collecting. But, then I have over 100 clips and never mess with them at the range.
I have never used auto rim as in my mind it goes against the best part of acp revolvers, Reloads. That and easy brass collecting. But, then I have over 100 clips and never mess with them at the range.
StrawHat
SWCA Member
ACP dies are similar to revolver dies. It very much depends on your press setup. I expand with one die, seat with one and crimp with another. I also load for 11 different ACP revolvers. Taper crimping works IF you get the diameter of the bullets to match the throat of the cylinder. It takes some experimenting.
My personal favorite load revolvers around the SAECO 453 bullet and enough Bullseye powder to equal hardball ballistics.
The best advice I can give you is to take your favorite ACP load and try it in your revolver. Listen to what the gun tells you.
Kevin
batman4706
Member
I've never needed it, but RCBS has one in their cowboy sets. It's also available as an individual die.
rustychip
Member
My favorite load was a185gr. swc over 5.5grs of supertarget, used the same round in both my auto and my 625, never had bullet creep or accuracy issues, i still dont understand the hate for moon clips, their so simple a caveman could use them, besides i'm getting old enough i dont want to bend over to pick up brass if i dont have to.
some of you mentioned the moon clip "hassle", I really don't have any problems using a Mooncliptool loads clips easily.
I'm not sure if they are still in business, but Dillon has one very similar.
I'm not sure if they are still in business, but Dillon has one very similar.
The moonclip tool is great for filling clips. To me the best way to empty them is a tube that just slips over the round and has a tooth on the bottom so when you twist the tube it cams the brass out. I can empty a clip in second with theses.
I made this one
I made this one
