Hey guys
You know how the cylinder will lock up tighter when you cock the hammer on S&W, Ruger and other respected revolvers? Well, I have an EAA Windicator that doesn't get tighter at all with the hammer cocked (the cylinder movement is the same whether cocked or not).
My question is what is the purpose of the cylinder getting tighter when cocked. Will it ruin the gun if shot like this? Will it make it wear out faster, shoot less accurately, slow the velocity of the bullet or what will happen? Is it dangerous?

The gun is otherwise right on specs. It has a 0.007 cylinder to barrel gap, the barrel's perfectly aligned with the cylinder, it only has a couple one thousands of endshake.
It just appears the clocking paw doesn't push hard enough to tighten the cylinder from forward and back movement when cocked, and the cylinder stop isn't tight enough to stop some side to side slop.

Also, this is a brand new gun, and I don't know if this is inherent in this cheap model gun, or if it''s something I need to send back for repair?

It depends on how much movement there is. S&Ws are designed to have a small amount of movement when cocked. If it locks up tight, there is the chance of pushing the cylinder too far past the barrel. With a slight amount of movement, the cylinder can line up exactly as the bullet passes through the cylinder gap. A hand fitted gun can lock up tight exactly in line, but there is no time for that on a modern production line.

Hey, Toolguy. Thanks for the reply.
Imagine the typical forward/back and rotational side/side cylinder movement of an uncocked S&W revolver. This gun has around the same. The only difference is when I cock the hammer back it has the exact same movement -it doesn't tighten up at all.

I know my posted topic isn't about a S&W, but you Smith guys seem to be the most knowledge revolver guys around is the reason I'm asking here.

It all depends on how much movement we're talking about. A small amount is fine, too much is not fine. It's difficult to quantify how much is too much, as there is not an easy way to measure it or put numbers on the amount of rotation. As for endshake, .002 is the maximum I want to see on my guns, most of them are less.

does it lock up when the trigger is pulled?

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"from my cold dead hands" C.H.

No, it has no change in uncocked and cocked, or trigger pulled in double action to cock.

Toolguy, I'll go measure the end shake now, and post the results. But it's more than just front to back movement, it has side to side rotational movement as well, but I think that's ok. It doesn't move enough to get the cylinder out of line with the barrel and forcing cone.

I've just never seen a revolver didn't have some lockup/tightening up with the hammer cocked, and aren't sure if it's ok and is just inherent in this cheap revolver, or if I need to send it back to the manufacture for repair.

Toolguy
I know this different than my opening post, but I was more careful this time.
Pushing the cylinder all the way back, the gap's .008. Pushing cylinder all the way forward the gap's .0015, so that's 0.0065 endshake, right? Those measured gaps are the same with hammer cocked or not cocked.
I think I'll send it back.

Way too much endshake. Yes, you measured it correctly. On that gun, it should stay at .007 or .008 all the time. A gap of .005 to .006 is considered ideal, .008 would be liveable if not for the endshake.

0.0065" end shake is too much for a revolver. That EAA Windicator has a problem that needs to be fixed. Finding a gunsmith who will service an EAA revolver might be a challenge, so that leaves EAA customer service. Good luck.

Your problem is that you think all revolvers designs are the same. They are not. Some revolvers are designed to lock tighter when the hammer is back; others are not. The EAA, like the S&W, is not designed that way.

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Pisgah

Pisgah, thanks for the reply.
I have some experience with Ruger revolvers, but not much with S&W. I'm about to buy my first S&W (a 686), so that's good information to know that they don't lock up tighter with hammer cocked.
Do you think I should be concerned with the .0065 endshake?

I could be wrong, but I always consider a S&W revolver to be at FULL lock-up with the hammer all the way forward (down) and the trigger held all the way back. In other words, pull the trigger and keep it held all the way back. The hammer will now be as far forward as it goes and you will see the firing pin protruding through its bushing if look through the cylinder gap. I don't consider a S&W to be at full lock-up simply with the hammer cocked.