Questions On Fitting Ti cylinder to M442-2

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I've tried two of these Ti cylinders in my M442-2. Neither one is a drop-in fit. Both Ti cylinders are .006" longer than the steel cylinder of my M442, but when compared to my M60 cylinder, only .002" longer.

The difference isn't on the B/C gap end, it's on the headspace end. Sinking a depth guage inside both cylinders, the measurement is the same from the bottom surface to the cylinder face on the M442 steel and the Ti cylinder. The cylinder cannot close as the extractor star contacts the recoil shield.

Is the proper way to address this to be trim the yoke (there is presently .009" of B/C gap)? Going back to the original steel cylinder if the Ti didn't work out would then require three .002 Powers shims, is this correct? Is using three shims acceptable?

I am not confident to stretch the yoke. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

Thank you.
 
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Are you using your old extractor? I think when I swapped mine, I just used the old extractor and that made it a drop-in fit.
 
Yes, I've tried the original, the ones supplied with both Ti cylinders and the extractor from the M60 cylinder. All four appear to be CNC machined to the same dimensions.
 
I've tried two of these Ti cylinders in my M442-2. Neither one is a drop-in fit. Both Ti cylinders are .006" longer than the steel cylinder of my M442, but when compared to my M60 cylinder, only .002" longer.

The difference isn't on the B/C gap end, it's on the headspace end. Sinking a depth guage inside both cylinders, the measurement is the same from the bottom surface to the cylinder face on the M442 steel and the Ti cylinder. The cylinder cannot close as the extractor star contacts the recoil shield.

Is the proper way to address this to be trim the yoke (there is presently .009" of B/C gap)? Going back to the original steel cylinder if the Ti didn't work out would then require three .002 Powers shims, is this correct? Is using three shims acceptable?

I am not confident to stretch the yoke. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Sounds like you actually have an endshake issue, as in less than none. Yes you trim back the yoke. Yes you can stack shims. I use .004's rather than .002's, makes a better bearing. With what I read in your post after you get the endshake adjusted so the cylinder will close you'll probably have to set the b/c gap as it may be very tight. S&W does it with a file.
 
Thank you tomcatt51 for the quick reply.

I was hoping you would see this and post. Didn't want to proceed if there was something that I had overlooked.

It's altogether now with .005" B/C gap and .060" headspacing. Carries up and aligns on all five holes. And smooth.

Thanks again.
 
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With what I read in your post after you get the endshake adjusted so the cylinder will close you'll probably have to set the b/c gap as it may be very tight. S&W does it with a file.

Are you talking file the chamber end of the barrel to fit the cylinder gap.? I always thought you had to take the barrel off and re-work the threads for a cylinder gap adjustment. This is very interesting .
 
Are you talking file the chamber end of the barrel to fit the cylinder gap.? I always thought you had to take the barrel off and re-work the threads for a cylinder gap adjustment. This is very interesting .
If you you have too much b/c gap, yes you remove the barrel and cut back the shoulder to "set back" the barrel. If you have too little b/c gap, you remove material from the barrel face. S&W does this with a file during assembly.
 
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