S&W Model 10 Trigger Pivot Pin, how hard to find/replace?

I sent a Model 10-6 back to Smith & Wesson for repair, it was spitting lead out the barrel/cylinder gap and would occasionally misfire in double action.

They called me back a couple weeks ago, and said they couldn't fix it because it had a cracked "Trigger Pivot Pin", said they didn't have the part. They have since sent the revolver back to me....

How hard is it to find a trigger pivot pin? is this a fatal flaw?

Thanks,

Canoeguy

Might try numerich and some of the pother parts supplies. If nothing else one could be machined.

The hammer and trigger pins are pressed in.
Replacement requires a bench press device and special support dies to support and protect the frame while pressing the pin out and a new one in.

The most complicated die is the one that fits inside the frame while the old pin is pressed out.

Also needed are special hollow press punches that fit over the pin and guide it in at 90 degrees and give it full support.

DO NOT attempt to drive a pin in or out with a hammer and punch. That will easily deform or bulge the frame or drive the pin in crooked.

A new pin is rather easily made from good drill rod stock on a lathe, but.........
Gun Parts Corp carry Model 10 "K" frame trigger studs:

Trigger Stud Gun Parts | 325920 | Numrich Gun Parts

dfaris,

Thanks for the info, it does sound like a challenging job, something most gun smiths might not want to do.

I don't want to give up on the revolver, anyone know of a gun smith who might take on this job?

At one time I had a lot of them and have replaced a few. They are silver brazed.

canoeguy said:

dfaris,

Thanks for the info, it does sound like a challenging job, something most gun smiths might not want to do.

I don't want to give up on the revolver, anyone know of a gun smith who might take on this job?

Click to expand...

A highly recommended pistolsmith is Frank Glenn in Arizona.
He has a great reputation for factory level repairs, and he's both competitive and faster then most.
He's one of the VERY, very few who is a real expert on Colt revolver work, so he definitely knows his trade.

Another excellent source is to send the gun and a stud in to S&W and have them replace it.

Unless something has changed radically, S&W does not braze frame pins in:

Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ

I'll give a second mention of Frank Glenn. He is an expert and I wouldn't hesitate to let him do anything on any of my handguns. And a swell fellow to boot. Also, don't go up against him in a shooting match, his shooting talent is about equal to his gunsmithing.

Did you ask S&W if they would do the repair if you furnished the parts? I have had them do that for me.

The fact that S&W can not (will not) fix their own product is simply pathetic!

I have done a few of these myself and luckily at the time they broke I was able to get new ones relatively easy. IMHO this is NOT a fatal breakage - it only requires a competent GS.

You have several different options............

S&W originally fit the stud prior to final metal finishing and so the stud is barely visible from the outside of the frame. If you do not wish to refinish the gun, then you will have to fit the stud as best as possible prior to installation to avoid messing up the frames finish. I was able to get mine acceptable although not as perfect as the original Factory fit obviously. A good Caliper is essential! One I did was on a stainless gun and the other was blued.

The other option is to fit a different type that looks like one from the early 1900's models. I don't even know of those type are available anymore.

I would bet you can find one for your revolver with some persistence and even if not, a true competent GS can make one since it is a simple part. If you do find one (get two just incase) and you are mechanically inclined, have plenty of patience, have the correct tools and have confidence you can even attempt it yourself. Personally I would advise a novice to stake it in and not braze it as some do as there is a lot less chance of messing things up. Once the side-plate is installed there is minimal pressure on the stud as the plate will keep it in place. Although I am NOT a person that uses Locktite on guns, this WOULD be the exception to assist in keeping it from moving.

I have heard of threaded ones being made by someone but I do not know if this is a rumor or not and personally would not want to drill and tap a larger hole in the frame unless absolutely necessary.

The bottom line here is you DO HAVE OPTIONS and you can definitely get your M10 back into working condition. The fact that the Factory will not do this repair anymore really upsets me. For them it's NOT a big job and parts are NOT that complicated and can easily be gotten or made by a Company their size. I guess they really don't want to be bothered!

Lots of good info...

I am going to try and find the trigger pin, ask S&W nicely if they will install it if I provide the part, if not I'll try the gunsmith above.

A funny thing, when the gunsmith at Smith & Wesson called me to say they didn't want to mess with fixing the gun, they didn't say they were returning the gun un-assembled. I got the revolver back with the sideplate off, screws in a bag. I am thinking they couldn't get it back together with the bad pin.

I called them after I received the dis-assembled revolver, they did say to send it back and they would attempt to put it back together. So, with a new pin, they may attempt the repair.

More to follow....

Your specific problem is NOT unique or NOT that uncommon. I am really upset that S&W wouldn't seek out a bunch of these parts for future repairs. Many times they could also get re-finishing jobs out of it too - but I guess that means they would actually have more work/ more profit - what a terrible situation.......

From reading the Forum it seems that S&W does not want to do any real Gunsmithing anymore.They only want to do simple part swaps that any untrained Monkey could complete....Sad

There is a trigger pin available on Ebay under vintage gun parts.

Dear Canoeguy. The gun can be fixed. No problem, just like others already said. After that get a decend triggerstop installed. Not the silly standard plate S&W puts in but an allen hex head set screw in the back of the triggerguard right behind your triggerfinger. See att pic: arrow S. It is drilled from the frontside with extra long drill. It will prevent the pivot pin to break again. This kind off triggerstop should be on every big bore. Trouble is, when the trigger is at the end of its stroke it will have a hard stop because his top hits the frame (circle). All forces on the trigger (your finger is still pushing) are then applied on the trigger pivot pin. Heavy recoil makes it worse. Adding the triggerstop releaves the pin. By a competent mechanic, this will be a 30min job.

Good luck, enjoy your gun!

HP

I can't imagine why you would drill the frame when you could put the stop screw in the trigger?

bottom line, the effect is the same. Some reasons to drill the frame. It is softer than the hardened trigger. (Stainless is no problem too) Therefor it is nicer too for the setscrew to hit on the hardened trigger, it will leave a smaller mark on the hardenend trigger than on the frame. Second, unless you drill straight through and never mind to see the bottom of the set screw at the front of your trigger, you have to make a blind hole. This will only be just a couple of millimeters deep which will give you very little depth to thread. If you want to drill the trigger I suggest to drill a blind hole and glue a oversized rod in and file this to lenght in assembly. Try both: SA and DA, the point of release is not allways the same. For the view: unless you have the smallest S&W grips, the back side of the frame where the set screw is "visible", is completely covered by the grips. BTW Do use Lock-Tite.

The effect in both cases is the same as far as trigger overtravel is concerned. However, the damage to the frame is irreversable.

When you drill a hole in the trigger, you are drilling a replaceable part.