Model 17-4 cylinder removal
- Thread starter Lucien
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This is not necessary if you just want to remove cylinder assem.
Just take out the screw over from of trigger guard on right side
of gun. Cylinder with yoke will slide right out to front. Would
advise not to take assembly apart, unless there is reason.
Just take out the screw over from of trigger guard on right side
of gun. Cylinder with yoke will slide right out to front. Would
advise not to take assembly apart, unless there is reason.
JAREDSHS
Member
definitely--what Drm50 said.
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To simply remove the Cylinder all that is needed is to take out (with hollow ground proper fitting screwdriver) the front Side-plate screw and wiggle the assembly out. Pull Yoke off Cylinder and that's it.
If you want to remove the Ejector Rod the thread on that is a left hand (reverse) thread. Insert empties into Cylinder BEFORE you attempt to loosen it. Use empties when re-assembling too and don't over tighten it. If you have a Drill Press use the Chuck as a vise (pull out power cord so motor can NOT go on) to hold ER and insert far enough so the knurled portion (tip) does NOT get bunged up. Tighten it up enough so the ER won't spin, but don't "Gorilla it".
You will find different opinions here on the Forum but I would suggest NOT using Locktite to re-assemble the ER. In my 37 years of working on my Revolvers I've NEVER had one just come loose as long as it was properly tightened. Locktite can cause more problems than it solves here.
If you want to remove the Ejector Rod the thread on that is a left hand (reverse) thread. Insert empties into Cylinder BEFORE you attempt to loosen it. Use empties when re-assembling too and don't over tighten it. If you have a Drill Press use the Chuck as a vise (pull out power cord so motor can NOT go on) to hold ER and insert far enough so the knurled portion (tip) does NOT get bunged up. Tighten it up enough so the ER won't spin, but don't "Gorilla it".
You will find different opinions here on the Forum but I would suggest NOT using Locktite to re-assemble the ER. In my 37 years of working on my Revolvers I've NEVER had one just come loose as long as it was properly tightened. Locktite can cause more problems than it solves here.
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scooter123
Member
How we get from a simple Field Strip to monkeying with the Ejector Rod I do NOT understand. Lucien, the Ejector Rod features an Extra Fine Pitch thread and really shouldn't be fooled with by someone who isn't a Gunsmith. Because it is EXTREMLY easy to cross thread once you take it apart completely. To be blunt, if it's not loose do NOT do anything with this assembly. If it is loose use some old worn out leather belt and some pliers to pinch the knurled end, insert some fired cases into the chambers, and then use one hand to tighten the cylinder assembly very firmly on the ejector rod while using those pliers and that leather belt to keep the ejector rod from spinning. Note, this is a left hand thread so to tighten turn it backwards.
Field Stripping a S&W Revolver
This is actually very simple. The shaft for the Yoke is retained by the Yoke Screw which is located at the front extension of the Side Plate under the cylinder just behind the Made in USA stamp on the right side of the frame in English and Spanish.
First remove this screw which features a standard Right Hand Thread. Note, a properly fitted screwdriver should be used for this. Also this screw does NOT need to be tightened super tight, it should only be tightened enough that it won't shoot loose and I would suggest taking a fitted screwdriver to the range until you learn how tight is enough to keep it from shooting loose. Because tightening it too tight will only lead to problems in the future and buggering up the screw head because you'll find you remove it for every cleaning to make cleaning easier. I'll also note that this screw features a 4MM thread and a spring loaded tip and this design is specific to revolvers made after 1989. Designs prior to this date used a dog point screw with a fixed tip and a smaller thread diameter.
Once the yoke screw has been removed open up the cylinder assembly, grasp the cylinder and frame with the left hand and slide the Yoke forward out of the frame and cylinder completely. Note, you do this so that there isn't any potential of rubbing the cylinder against the frame by sliding out the cylinder and yoke together. If you are careful about positioning the cylinder so it clears the frame you can slide the cylinder and yoke out together.
RE-assembly is the reverse of the above two steps.
Field Stripping a S&W Revolver
This is actually very simple. The shaft for the Yoke is retained by the Yoke Screw which is located at the front extension of the Side Plate under the cylinder just behind the Made in USA stamp on the right side of the frame in English and Spanish.
First remove this screw which features a standard Right Hand Thread. Note, a properly fitted screwdriver should be used for this. Also this screw does NOT need to be tightened super tight, it should only be tightened enough that it won't shoot loose and I would suggest taking a fitted screwdriver to the range until you learn how tight is enough to keep it from shooting loose. Because tightening it too tight will only lead to problems in the future and buggering up the screw head because you'll find you remove it for every cleaning to make cleaning easier. I'll also note that this screw features a 4MM thread and a spring loaded tip and this design is specific to revolvers made after 1989. Designs prior to this date used a dog point screw with a fixed tip and a smaller thread diameter.
Once the yoke screw has been removed open up the cylinder assembly, grasp the cylinder and frame with the left hand and slide the Yoke forward out of the frame and cylinder completely. Note, you do this so that there isn't any potential of rubbing the cylinder against the frame by sliding out the cylinder and yoke together. If you are careful about positioning the cylinder so it clears the frame you can slide the cylinder and yoke out together.
RE-assembly is the reverse of the above two steps.
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The WAY the OP asked the question is a bit confusing as to what he really wants to know, Therefore I made an attempt to cover all the bases. No intended purpose was made to confuse anyone here, but it was simply unclear as to what he really wanted to know with his wording.
Thank you all. Removing the Yoke is OK for what I intend to do. I want to clean the cylinders with J-B from Brownells and a stainless brush. I want to put the cylinders in a vise to hold the cylinder steady. The cases are very hard getting out and will try to clean the cylinders.
Again thank you , and I'm sorry that I was not clear in my intension.
Lou
Again thank you , and I'm sorry that I was not clear in my intension.
Lou
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Lou,
Just be careful that you do not inadvertently get any cleaners into the EJ tunnel or you might have to remove it anyway. The little Bronze Brush bristles sometimes like to fall inside and it would not be a bad idea to flush out the hole after you do your cleaning to make sure there is nothing inside. Spray in some Remoil, Rig #2 Oil, or other similar thin lube until fluid fills hole. Work ER a few times (carefully because it won't be supported) and spill out onto a rag. When it comes out clear you know you are GTG. Not only will this serve to clean out any debris, but it will also lube everything nicely.
