Airweight Frame is corroded

bigtubby

bigtubby

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This belongs to my SIL I am trying to determine the best option for this gun. Friend of mine and long time member on here suggested bead blasting, guy on a local forum will Cerakote the frame and side plate for a $100.00 now sure how that will turn out. A certified coater wants $180.00 which is more than she wants to spend. Or sell it as a truck gun and buy something new or used. I like the bead blast idea has anybody done this? any other options that don't cost more then the gun is worth?

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If you have it bead blasted it would be wise to have some sort of finish applied afterward. Bead blasting will remove the protective finish that is applied to the alloy. (It is most likely that this finish is the only thing "corroded" at present.)
 
One has to be careful bead blasting. I've done lots of car parts and sometimes you loose.
 
bigtubby said:
Got it all cleaned up with a dremel and like scotch brite pad. Will this corrode if not coated?
Click to expand...

So you’ve already cleaned it? I would suggest Renaissance Wax or Johnson’s Paste Wax (floor wax) to protect the now bare and very vulnerable surface.

Froggie
 
bigtubby said:
Got it all cleaned up with a dremel and like scotch brite pad. Will this corrode if not coated?
Click to expand...


Yes, it will corrode or oxidize. It is AL Oh Min E UM,;)
Waxing is a waste of time.


If you don't want to spend the money on Brownells paint, get some caliper paint at the auto store, it has to be heated in a oven so you need a old toaster oven (not in you kitchen)!


Alima Hyde is great and doesn't need to be baked. No it is not gonna be like a CeraCoat but it works very well if you can follow directions.
 
That is not corrosion. It won't corrode if you leave it unfinished. It had a factory clear coat finish and that is damaged. It could have gotten something sprayed on it by accident. Maybe hairspray or something.
 
Jimboecv said:
Anode/cathode/path, that is required for corrosion.
Basic Theory of Metallic Corrosion - Allied Corrosion Industries, Inc.

Metals will corrode, ferrous (red) or non-ferrous (white)...
Click to expand...
Yes they will. But absent significant exposure to a corrosive agent, aluminum will form a slightly dull layer of aluminum oxide that is just a few molecules thick, and then stop corroding. The aluminum oxide itself forms a barrier to further corrosion. Look at the aluminum casing on a dirt bike motor, or at the clutch/brake levers. They usually start with a clearcoat on them to keep them shiny - for a little while. But it quickly wears off and the aluminum parts get that slightly dull gray, almost bead-blasted look - especially the engine which goes through extreme heating/cooling cycles and repeated exposure to water.

If you strip the rest of the clearcoat off that gun and then do absolutely nothing it will do the same thing. It won't look shiny like it did when new, but it won't corrode away into a pile of dust either. It will form a thin layer of duller aluminum oxide and then stop corroding - unless you go exposing it to harsh corrosive chemicals that strip away the protective layer of aluminum oxide and expose the bare aluminum again. That is the way I would go and none of this is conjecture or opinion on my part, this info is straight out of the Materials Science class I took in order to get my engineering degree.

BTW, aluminum oxide is HARD stuff. Way harder than the original aluminum alloy. One of the biggest uses for aluminum oxide is as an abrasive/coating to make things like sandpaper and grinding wheels - that's how hard it is.
 
Last edited:
Jimboecv said:
Anode/cathode/path, that is required for corrosion.
Click to expand...

The galvanic series, good for anticipating *galvanic*
corrosion--not likely for the revolver, unless it was
immersed in an electrolyte, in presence of a metal
lower in the series, as that table's layed out.

The caliper paint is a good suggestion, or other
rattle-can epoxy paints. Shower frame generously
with brake cleaner, let it dry (including the condensing
humidity, after the solvent evaporates). Hang it
over a 60 watt bulb for a week and it will cure up
tough! Makes a durable, sweat resistant finish for
a belly gun.
 
As someone stated, I don't believe that's corrosion; rather, it looks like damaged clearcoat. S&W clearcoat can easily be damaged by using the wrong cleaning solvent on the gun -- something they warn specifically about.

Bare aluminum will not just corrode -- it will corrode literally within seconds. Takes a while for it to become noticeable, but it does happen just that quick. This is why it is always either anodized, clearcoated or otherwise protected for such use. If it's already been stripped, I would recommend some form of paint, whether something like Guncote, Alumahyde or plain ol' Rustoleum.
 
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