I often hear stuff like "it still has the factory grease". Now Chinese AKs/SKSs are heavily packed with cosmoline for long term storage and transportation and must be cleaned out before firing, but what about S&W revolvers. I generally use Jerry Ks guidance when it comes to cleaning and lubrication (and other things as well), but how do new S&Ws come out of the factory, and what can be done to ensure a long life? The reason I'm asking is I sometimes see LNIB examples with what appears to be a light coat of grease throughout the action.

Not exactly I.A.W. Jerry Kuhnhausen's book.

I have no idea what S&W uses these days as I have not bought a new revolver since before 2000. Factory lubrication does provide at least some degree of lubrication, but I suspect it is there more for corrosion protection and is likely to contain residue from test firing and possibly debris from manufacturing.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Don't know this guy Jerry, but I don't normally clean the internals, or remove the side plate of my new S&W revolvers. Just normal bore cleaning practice and exterior Hoppes wipe and lube.

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Slava Ukraini!

The gun that prompted my question is from 1985 and call LNIB.

I referred to Jerry Kuhnhausen's "The S&W Revolver, A Shop Manual". My copy printed 1990. Excellent book for professionals and do-it-yourselfers (like me).

I would fear that a LNIB revolver from 1985, if it still had the factory lubricant inside it, would have a sluggish action due to the lube drying. Even the grease used in firearms can dry out and become a sludgy mess.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

After not having shot my 29 for many years, the 1976 year production gun would not even allow the hammer/trigger to move. Removed the side plate and found the grease/lubricate was dried hard as a rock. Flushed the frame with a gun cleaner and applied a thin gun oil to all moving surfaces Everthing was find.

My basic question is: how does S&W lube a gun as it is assembled?

Couple of drops of oil in the action and VCP paper in packing.

I've never seen S&W use GREASE on handguns, but have seen multiple types of OIL over the years. What brand they use is most likely based on the best deal they got at the time. I would think that many years ago they used what they thought was the best - but recently - just on the cost.

"The Factory Grease" is just sort of an expression to emphasize the NEW condition. Also, Oil left for 30, 40 + years probably resembles grease - lol

The last five new S&Ws I have removed the side plate from have been bone dry inside.

Now that is cost efficient!

Just another reason to learn how to disassemble, clean and lube the innards properly. The cost of having it done professionally is getting out of hand for many. It's not that difficult and once learned should be routine every few years - but proper lubrication does not mean too much!

Take gun apart thoroughly clean inspect and hone parts spray small amount of rem oil on a brush and lightly coat all parts including inside of frame you'll be good to go !

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When I was at the factory for revolver armorers school back in the mid to late 80's ( 2 different times), I observed a couple of barrels of Breakfree within the factory.
S&W would not endorse Breakfree, but they were using it. Today's use, I have no idea.
A S&W revolver only needs about 6 drops of oil. Two on the barrel of the yoke, and one on each pivot point.

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Retired LEO, FI, S&W Armorer

That's what I was looking for. Thanks revolverman.

After reading your above post I ordered "The S&W Revolvers: a Shop Manual, New Expanded 5th Edition Paperback – January 1, 2014" by Jerry Kuhnhausen for myself. I read ALL the reviews and liked what I saw. It's a little pricey at $52+ for the paperback version, but hey, what can I say, EVERYTHING pertaining to firearms is pricey nowadays.

Thanks for posting that though.

I don't use even that much (and then again, maybe I'm doing it all wrong) to lube a revolver (Smith or my Taurus 66). After stripping down to the frame and cleaning, I put a drop on the pivot point of the trigger, message it in with my finger then run that finger over the trigger where it contacts the frame, also the engagement points with the hammer, sear, hammer to frame engagement points (all with the same drop of oil). When my finger gets dry, I just put another drop on and continue. I got into that regiment when I lived down in Arizona (the dusty desert ya know) and have just stuck with it. Oil will attract dust, dirt, sand, so I learned to use the least amount of oil possible, but still enough to do what's needed. I've seen guys at IPSC matched (late 70's thru the 80's) cock their hammer, then take a plastic oil bottle and insert into the action, then give it a good squeeze, shake their gun a couple of times, wipe it down with a clean dry cloth and call it good. I never did feel good about doing that myself though, what with the constant chance of a dust storm, or a lone dust devil coming thru ya know. YMMV though, just the way I do things. Have a good one.

My literature that came with my NEW 686-6 said to first clean all the preservative off the gun, bore, cylinder and I think the internal lockwork (but I might be mistaken there and mis-read it) before firing it the first time.

does anyone use a synthetic lube on the internals, so you can leave it sealed, and never screw with it again?

I'm digging into a Ruger GP-100 soon and want to know. And what to use either way.

I had to fix a sewing machine once, that was locked up, because the grease had converted into bar soap. Don't want that happen to the revolver.

I read on a boating forum years ago: Any new grease is better than the best old grease.

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