HOW on EARTH do you take off the flash suppresser ???

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mojester1

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Just got my new M&P 15-22 and cannot get the flash hider off !!!
Not even the local gun store can...
 
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As long as you are using vise jaws, such as the type that tacticool22.com sells, it should not be a problem. Do not clamp on the plastic upper receiver because it could crack while trying to unscrew the barrel or flash hider.
 
I carefully clamp the barrel on a couple of my rifles with similar bird cages and use a crescent wrench very carefully.......lefty loosey/righty tighty

Put a few drops of penetrating oil on it and let it sit a while......................Fortunately, mine came off easy.
 
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It should unscrew without too much effort, but if not you can apply some heat to it. As already mentioned make sure you're clamping on the barrel or it will twist/spin in the polymer upper and cause damage.
 
Thanks guys...
I didnt try heat yet...
The local gun shop even used a barrel vice and could not get it off !!!
I was very careful not to hold the receiver...
I used the "WIFE" vice to hold the barrel and that didnt work...
Never been fired so no carbon build up...
I want to get a barrel shroud and this is starting to be a pain...
 
Hmmm, try a little bit of heat that may work. Just watch out and make sure to not over heat anything so that there is no heat transfer into the plastic parts.
 
I viced mine between 2 2x4's and it worked. First time I didn't put enough pressure on the vice and couldn't get it to work. But the wood will give before the barrel so don't be scared to crank down on the vice.
 
mine was very tough to remove from the factory as well. i ordered the 15-22 specific vise clamps from tacticool as normal ar clamps are too large in diameter. my LGS was able to finally remove it with those clamps.
 
I tried it everyway under the sun and wound up taking to a shop to get it off. And yes just to support what others said, do not think you can hold it via the plastic receiver to Break loose the flash hider.
 
A tip when using the 2x4s in a big bench vise: clamp 'em down good'n'tight to make the barrel impression in the wood. Then release it all and dust some powdered rosin into the impressions. Put it all back into the vise and the barrel will never slip in the wood. Any rosin that sticks to the barrel will wash right off with mineral spirits.
Hope this helps.

Larry
 
The most important thing is to never clamp on the upper. You will ruin it.
You can use an old leather belt wrapped in a spiral, or 2x4 or other wood or whatever else your imagination can come up with that will protect the barrel from scratches (or vise grip marks) and hold the barrel.
I don't like putting heat on my firearms. They are a finely machined machine that needs torque or pressure, but not heat.
If you melt the plastic, you have overdone it by a factor of D'oh.
 
It should come off fairly easily without heat. Barrel vice jaws are necessary per the aforementioned reasons.
 
It shouldn't be pinned. That was done back in the Clinton AWB days. But maybe if the DistriKt you live in requires that.
Does anybody know if a pinned FH is required anywhere?
Kalifornistan does not even require that now.
 
Dunno about pinned but I ran into an AR barrel that had the flash hider pressed and spline locked on. Don't know where it was born but it wasn't a free state.
 
Mine won't budge!!!

I've been trying to use the vise jaws from tacticool in my bench vise but it seems that no matter how tight I clamp it, the barrel/entire rifle is still turning (must not be clamping enough) when I try to remove the flash hider.

Any suggest before I give up and take this to a shop???
 
I say take it to a shop.

But you can get a couple of softer wood blocks, drill a hole of similar diameter than the barrel through it, cut it in half with a band saw and there you go. Instant barrel clamps.

KBK
 
tacticool22 said:
It shouldn't be pinned. That was done back in the Clinton AWB days. But maybe if the DistriKt you live in requires that.
Does anybody know if a pinned FH is required anywhere?
Kalifornistan does not even require that now.
Click to expand...

Connecticut requires anything fastened to a threaded barrel to be pinned and/or welded in place. A bare threaded barrel is one of the absolute no-nos on a so-called "assault weapon".
 
Majorlk said:
Connecticut requires anything fastened to a threaded barrel to be pinned and/or welded in place. A bare threaded barrel is one of the absolute no-nos on a so-called "assault weapon".
Click to expand...

That was my thought too. It could come from a state that requires it to be welded/pinned. Might look up the Item number on the S&W sight or call S&W CS and have them look it up for you through your serial number. You "could" be fighting a loosing battle if it's been welded. My LGS has 15-22's with no flash hider.

Rifle might have come from a compliant state that required it and "might" have been transfered (slow sales), to another store with better sales in a different state that isn't compliant. I got a FANTASTIC deal from a Dick's Sporting Goods Store on an AR 15 T for that very reason and doing my homework. S&W couldn't find my item number,but had the serial number. Turned out it "could" have been a special build for a chain store like Dick's/Cabela's/... for a cheaper cost. Some parts were different and it only had a 10 round mag insted of the 30 PMag as listed.
 
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