100yard bad result

pilot1695

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Second time shootings MP-10. Seems I can't get a steady hold when I pull the trigger. Bullets landed all over the place...can you guys give me some advises and tips to improve my shooting.
I'm using nikon 3x9x40 scope,
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Difficult to advise not knowing your experience level. Have someone you know to be an excellent shooter give your gun a try. See if they get better results. Then have someone instruct you on basic shooting techniques - slight forward pressure on the buttstock, slight downward pressure on the cheek weld, proper breathing, sight alignment, and trigger control. BTW, you shouldn't be "pulling" the trigger, it should be a slow, consistent, intentional squeeze.

Edited: I just noticed your bipod position on the rifle - it appears to be mounted close to the receiver. It should be as far forward as possible to give a more stable platform.
 
Mach1 is right, there could be a number of things compounding the problem. If that is all the same ammo, try some different weight andengths. For example, my gun will print 1.5 inch 5 shot groups at 100, with Remington 150gr sp rounds, but I went through 180 and 165 gr rounds, several types, to find what the rifling likes.

Then shooting tips- low rounds are usually a result of anticipating the shot and jerking the trigger just before it breaks. That pulls the muzzle down: remedy this by slow steady trigger pull TO THE REAR.

For a right handed shooter, rounds to the right are usually a result of too much finger on the trigger, so back off to your trigger finger pad ahead of the first joint and again pull to the rear.

"Chasing" rounds is a subconscious effort to tighten or make a group, but results in rounds all over the place because you are moving your poi with each shot. Since you are using a scope draw some cross hairs on the target and use them to line up your reticle. Then fire a group in that one same spot. Don't check the spotting scope for hits, just focus on firing into that same spot. Then check your grouping. The hit-vis targets are great, but sometimes if you can't see your hits each time you focus better on the point of aim.

Good luck!
 
It would be helpful to limit things to three or 5 shot groups -- one group per target.

I see folks posting targets like yours - with twenty+ rounds and questions like yours frequently.

Hard for me to offer any specific feedback other than a laundry list of things.

Unfortunately, I'd give you the same laundry list if you asked 'how can I shoot tighter groups with my xyz rifle' and did not include a photo of your target. Something on the laundry list might help you, but that would depend on luck.

I see you have a spotting scope. If you don't want to change targets between groups, shoot three shots then look at the results and record your group on a target at the bench. (Don't look through the scope after every shot - only after the 3 shot group has been completed)

Just my opinion , of course.
 
I did the 3 shot group. Some of them are pretty close, some of them got out far.



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I did the 3 shot group. Some of them are pretty close, some of them got out far.


Unfortunately, I can't tell which of the 35+ rounds on your target constitute three consecutive shots.

You might find 'calling your shots' helpful.
 
Getting help from people more experienced than yourself is the best way to improve along with lots of practice.

I'm not familiar with the S&W rifles but with my Colt AR-15 I'll fire the first shot and then only let the trigger come forward until I hear/feel the trigger reset.After that happens the rest of my shots are like single action without the anticipation.Also with my left elbow on the bench I support the bottom of the stock with my left hand instead of gripping the forward handguard.

You can put the rifle in a sled or support the rear with sandbags but that takes the human factor out of the equation.My shooting is purely recreational so hitting 5" steel at 100yds is enough to scratch my itch.
 
Each 3 shots, I look through the scope. I guess more practice is what I need.....


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@427, the bipod is toward the barrel. It just the angle of the pic.


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you should be pulling the trigger at the end of each breath where you have a pause, your trigger squeeze should surprise you when fired, do not jerk it, keep your sight picture the same Every time. Im no expert but i have been training soldiers and working on my own shooting for a decade in the army. Good luck and have fun
 
Wow.

That target is a mess.

What are we supposed to be seeing?

It's a semi auto rifle with a 20rnd magazine. Target looks just fine to me!!!!:D

OP; try this to narrow the trigger issue down a bit:

Curl your trigger finger, so the pad of the front/ tip of your finger rests on the trigger pointed back at you. Now, smoothly PRESS the trigger. See if this helps with the heavier trigger.

The AR trigger is a far, far cry from a Savage Accutrigger or Remington 700 trigger, so it does take a little getting used to.
For me, this was the difference between grouping an AR at 300 vs. peppering the target at 300.

Also, if using a bipod , it's easier to rest the non trigger hand rolled back under the butt stock for rear control. Look for images of snipers holding their rifles, it will be more apparent what I am trying to explain.
 
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What are we supposed to be seeing?

Stringing. This is a good example why a single 3 shot group doesn't tell us much. These groups are not round they are diagonal possibly from the shooter placing inconsistent pressure on the bipod
 
If shooting an AR with the basic "mil-spec" factory place-holder trigger, don't expect optimal results.
 
...can you guys give me some advises and tips to improve my shooting.

Yes!

Find your nearest Project Appleseed shoot. Getting some good instruction is the best way to cover that whole laundry list of things. Appleseed is incredibly cheap, widely available, and it might very well be exactly what you need. It will shrink your groups by at least half. With practice of the stuff they teach, you should be able to keep your rounds inside a 4" circle at 100yds. And it is seriously fun...
 
My advice for getting dialed in is to aim at the same spot each time, and shoot three times. It doesn't matter where your rounds hit, as long as they are in a tight group.

Then, you can adjust your scope and repeat the process. This will move the entire group where you want it.

Do NOT change your point of aim from shot to shot, in order to "walk" your rounds into the 10-ring. If you do this, you'll be there all day and will have nothing to show for it but targets with holes all over the place.

Also, do NOT mix ammunition when you are doing this. Different ammo shoots differently. If you shoot two different factory-loaded rounds, I can almost guarantee that one set of holes will be higher than the other. It won't change the left-to-right placement, but the elevation of your hits will most certainly change. I am talking about 1 or 2 inches, here.

Once you get "dialed in" you must make a mental note (or better yet, write it down) of what ammunition you used to get there. If your scope has detachable turret knobs, take them off and realign them to "zero". If you have never done this, read the instructions that came with your scope. Once your scope knobs are set to zero, you should be able to fire one round of different ammo and correct for elevation (up or down) with the elevation (top) turret, and be smack dab on target again. After shooting, just reset your elevation turret back to the "zero" mark.
 
That round is a laser beam at 100 yards. It's still going over 2,500 fps at 100 yards, and hasn't dropped at all. Your goal should be for all three holes to be touching.

The M&P 10 is capable of that. Maybe not with factory ammunition, but it is capable. I can't do it, but it can be done. I have seen it. :)
 
Move your Bipod farther forward on the handguard (almost to the end).

Tighten EVERY screw on your sight rings and the mount to your upper.

Check your eye relief to the back of the scope. You "should" have 3"-4". NOT too close,it WILL hurt/bite if you are too close. Too far you'll get/have "blurr". (Make sure you don't have any blurred spots around the edges). Set your scope power at it's highest and adjust your focus on your target.

NO BULLETS IN THE GUN YET... NO MAG EITHER.

Get a good grip on the handguard,pull the stock into your shoulder so it's comfortable and get your hand on the grip (NO trigger finger on the trigger yet), get a good cheek weild,center the cross hairs on the target,check that there isn't any blurr around the scope edges and just watch the target. Notice how it (cross hairs) move around the target ? That's your breathing. You might even see a slight throbbing. That's your heartbeat. Notice when you take in your breath and hold it for a second, let it out a little, the cross hairs will stay put ? That would be when you slowly squeeze/pull the trigger to the rear (you want the shot to surprise you when it goes off). Dry firing will show any movement through the scope too.

Practice this a few times and get comfortable with it before going live fire. It also helps if you aren't anticipating the recoil in the back of your mind. :)

Once zeroed. On the target, I take a marker and put a bunch of spaced out dots around the outside of the center target. That is so when once "zeroed" I have more aiming points to center on for 3-5 shot groups.
 
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