15" Troy Alpha install?

[wrightc88]

I definitely can recommend spraying the pins on the gas block with PB Blaster or something like it. I tried to remove mine at first with out it and they wouldn't budge. I let them soak over night and they punched out with no problem. The barrel nut is a pain to remove though. I ended up using a set of vice grips and locking it around the barrel nut and using a hammer to tap on the vice grip to break it loose.
Here's my MW Industries Gen 2 SS on my 15T

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[thecatch8]

Good info! I would expect the barrel nut to be tough, since it is more thank likely torqued to 70 ft. lbs. I take it you didn't have an armorer's tool to remove the barrel nut? Anything else about the removal you would like to share? What barrel nut did you end up going with?

 

[wrightc88]

Good info! I would expect the barrel nut to be tough, since it is more thank likely torqued to 70 ft. lbs. I take it you didn't have an armorer's tool to remove the barrel nut? Anything else about the removal you would like to share? What barrel nut did you end up going with?

I just have a basic wrench for the castle nut and flash hider. The rail came with the barrel nut and wrench to put it on. Everything was really simple once I was able to get the pins free from the gas block.

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[thecatch8]

I just have a basic wrench for the castle nut and flash hider. The rail came with the barrel nut and wrench to put it on. Everything was really simple once I was able to get the pins free from the gas block.

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Pins? Besides the set screws and (1) taper pin, what else is there for the gas block?

 

[JaPes]

The torque spec range for the barrel nut is a minimum of 30 ft-lbs to a maximum of 80 ft-lbs. Once timed properly, the nut will be closer to the minimum torque value than the maximum.

Once you've removed the muzzle device, muzzle device crush washer, gas block, and gas tube...

Removal: Place upper in the vise block clamp. Secure to vise. Use the armorer's tool. Insert a long handle socket wrench / breaker into the armorer's tool for more leverage. Push. It should come free.

Install: Set torque wrench to 30 ft-lbs. Tighten until you hear a click. Increase the torque wrench setting in increments of 5 ft-lbs until you get the barrel nut aligned to pass through the gas tube.

Tip: When reinstalling the gas block, use a pencil to mark the center line of the gas port vent. Mark the center line of the gas port on the gas block. Then all you have to do is match up the markings, set the screws, and tap the pin back into place.

 

[JaPes]

Search YouTube for "AR-MPR" and you'll find a series of very informative videos.

 

[thecatch8]

Thanks JaPes....it looks straight forward enough. Just have to have the right tools. I'm actually looking at the MI key mod rail, it comes with nut, rail piece, nut wrench..... $189 for rifle length 15" rail.

 

[thecatch8]

I definitely can recommend spraying the pins on the gas block with PB Blaster or something like it. I tried to remove mine at first with out it and they wouldn't budge. I let them soak over night and they punched out with no problem. The barrel nut is a pain to remove though. I ended up using a set of vice grips and locking it around the barrel nut and using a hammer to tap on the vice grip to break it loose.
Here's my MW Industries Gen 2 SS on my 15T

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

Is that the 15"?

 

[JaPes]

Thanks JaPes....it looks straight forward enough. Just have to have the right tools. I'm actually looking at the MI key mod rail, it comes with nut, rail piece, nut wrench..... $189 for rifle length 15" rail.

^^^ Go for it. The keymod handguards are narrow diameter lightweight goodness. Sweet stuff. The Alpha Rail is now "old tech".

 

[wrightc88]

Is that the 15"?

Yeah it's 15"

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[340PDOperator]

Alphas work on the standard barrel nut (the OP top picture). I have it on my 20 inch AR. It's a nice rail. Retains good and well made.




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[Rastoff]

If all you're missing is a standard barrel nut with delta ring, I've got a couple sitting around. I'll also be more than happy to take that crappy free float rail off your hands.

 

[Rastoff]

Oh yeah, one more thing.

Not all torque wrenches are the click type. Because I've calibrated thousands of torque wrenches, I don't trust the click type. So, I usually use the beam type at home. Both are fine for the barrel nut though because it's not a critical measurement.

The idea is to torque the barrel nut to 30ft/lbs. Then add torque until the holes line up so you can put the gas tube through. The lower the torque used, the better the accuracy will be. At least that's what they say. There should be no reason to even come close to the upper limit of the barrel nut.

 

[thecatch8]

If all you're missing is a standard barrel nut with delta ring, I've got a couple sitting around. I'll also be more than happy to take that crappy free float rail off your hands.

Thanks Rastoff.....I'm going with the MI 15" rail and it comes with all the hardware, barrel nut etc. This set up does not require a delta ring!

 

[Rastoff]

Yeah, I know it doesn't take the delta ring. I guess I'm just used to saying them together. I'll still take your old free float rail if you don't want it.

 

[JaPes]

Not all torque wrenches are the click type. Because I've calibrated thousands of torque wrenches, I don't trust the click type. So, I usually use the beam type at home. Both are fine for the barrel nut though because it's not a critical measurement.

Thanks for the tip. I'll need to add a beam type torque wrench to my tool chest.

 

[thecatch8]

Got bored waiting on new rail......turned out pretty good. $4.00 piss can