Have a 1937 Brazil 45 that I am restoring back to shooting condition. I noticed the other day while fitting a new barrel that the extension on the front of my cylinder has a crack in it. This is the bearing for the front of the cylinder and it also establishes the end shake. Now for the question from all of the experts. Is this tube piece pressed into the front of the cylinder? Looking at it under my microscope I think I see a line around the inside of the cylinder hole about a quarter of an inch below the cylinder face. Are these a bearing pressed into place? And if they are, how can they be removed? I can turn a new one on the lathe and press it into the cylinder if that is indeed how it is made. I don't even know what the bearing is called. It doesn't look like it would be turned in place on the end of the cylinder. Anyone have knowledge of this part? I can't imagine how this cracked down the length of the part. The crack stops at the junction of the face of the cylinder. It probably wouldn't hurt to shoot it this way, for I shot it a bit before starting this project. The finish is parkerized over what seems like thousands of minor dings in the surface. It is quite worn, the logo of Brazil is almost gone. I plan on refinishing it and then engraving it, then rust bluing it. It's had a few replacement parts in it's life, including the side plate. Thanks, John the toolman.
1917 cylinder question
- Thread starter JMtoolman
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What your saying seems like a rather large undertaking for a worn Brazilian. Some pictures of the cracks your talking would be helpful, my personal opinion would be that the money spent on what your saying just wouldn't be worth it.
That's the gas ring to protect the yoke shaft/cyl axis from being corroded or flame cut from the bar/cyl gap.
Changing it is a piece of cake for someone with your skills.
Remove the extractor rod (right hand thread on both '37 and '46 model), left hand on '46 models, and remove the star from the rear.
Grab onto the gas ring with needle nose vise grips. With cyl in a padded vise, place a large crescent wrench around the front of the vise grips and turn. The gas ring crack should continue to crack for the full length of the gas ring, then simply pull it out. If that doesn't remove it quickly or as an alternative method; put a slender punch or rod down thru the center of the cyl and tap on the tip of the vise grip jaw on the inside of the ring.
Since you have a lathe, you can bore it till its so thin it will pull out. Likely not worth the set-up time.
You can buy a new gas ring or just turn one as you stated on your lathe, and press in on the lathe.
Changing it is a piece of cake for someone with your skills.
Remove the extractor rod (right hand thread on both '37 and '46 model), left hand on '46 models, and remove the star from the rear.
Grab onto the gas ring with needle nose vise grips. With cyl in a padded vise, place a large crescent wrench around the front of the vise grips and turn. The gas ring crack should continue to crack for the full length of the gas ring, then simply pull it out. If that doesn't remove it quickly or as an alternative method; put a slender punch or rod down thru the center of the cyl and tap on the tip of the vise grip jaw on the inside of the ring.
Since you have a lathe, you can bore it till its so thin it will pull out. Likely not worth the set-up time.
You can buy a new gas ring or just turn one as you stated on your lathe, and press in on the lathe.
Last edited:
StrawHat
Member
John, would enjoy seeing photos. In progress and finished.
Why did you replace the barrel?
The parkerizing could be an old armory refinish. The early shipment of 1917s got quite a bit of use in Brazil and in Southern Europe during WWII. Or it could have been done by whoever imported it back to the states to make it more salable.
Thanks.
Kevin
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BTW, the gas ring does NOT establish end shake. What holds the cylinder from moving forward is the length of the yoke tube and the depth of the bore for it in the cylinder. If your gas ring is riding on the small shoulder in front of it on the yoke and the tube is not touching the bottom of the cylinders center bore you need to either stretch the yoke or add some shims. Might be why your gas ring cracked as there should be a tiny bit of free space in front of it.
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gas ring
Jim, got the gas ring out this morning. Quite a bit more of a job than one would think. Took me about an hour and a half. Couldn't make the small vice grips hold on the gas ring tight enough, would just slip off. I finely took a carbide engraving tool and cut about four cuts down the length of the gas ring. Then was able to use a brass punch and deflect the ring in a couple of places so oil would seep into the junction of the cylinder and gas ring. Ended up doing this all the way around before the gas ring would finely come out. I found out while doing this that the ring is tool steel and is heat treated quite hard. For this reason I would like to find an original one to replace this cracked one. Do you know of anyplace I can get one? I will make one out of tool steel if I cannot find one. I hadn't thought of taking pictures of the project until one of the members mentioned it. So will take photos during the rebuild job. Probably have to have some help posting them, I have never been able to figure out how. To say I am challenged by a computer is an understatement. Best regards, John, the toolman.
Jim, got the gas ring out this morning. Quite a bit more of a job than one would think. Took me about an hour and a half. Couldn't make the small vice grips hold on the gas ring tight enough, would just slip off. I finely took a carbide engraving tool and cut about four cuts down the length of the gas ring. Then was able to use a brass punch and deflect the ring in a couple of places so oil would seep into the junction of the cylinder and gas ring. Ended up doing this all the way around before the gas ring would finely come out. I found out while doing this that the ring is tool steel and is heat treated quite hard. For this reason I would like to find an original one to replace this cracked one. Do you know of anyplace I can get one? I will make one out of tool steel if I cannot find one. I hadn't thought of taking pictures of the project until one of the members mentioned it. So will take photos during the rebuild job. Probably have to have some help posting them, I have never been able to figure out how. To say I am challenged by a computer is an understatement. Best regards, John, the toolman.
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Bravo!
Some of those can be a bear to remove but you got it!
At Gun Parts:
Smith & Wesson 24 Revolver Parts, Schematics | Gun Parts Corp.
Gas Ring $7.60
Manufacturer: SMITH & WESSON
Product #: 316910
Following are other potential sources for parts:
Post an adv on this forum under the classified section.
'Guns & Gun Parts' (Recommended by S&W)
(413) 732-9938
983 Westfield St
West Springfield MA 01089-3813
EMAIL: [email protected]
Guns n Parts - New and Used Guns Bought and Sold. no parts list here.
Cyl End shake shims - Michigan Ctr and Sorts
Revolver Cylinder Shims
George Dye (at David Carroll's) for old Smith parts, sight blades, etc.
'GeorgeinSD' is George Dye---205 502-2026 in Birmingham
"Aonepawninc" http://stores.ebay.com/aonepawninc
has a bunch of old S&W parts for sale. I just ordered a complete hammer for my pre model 30 from them. They are very customer oriented and have very reasonable prices. 1/10/16
Dave Bennett: Parts and guns from 1900 up to 1970's.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.22ammobox.com
Jack First: Large selection of Pre- and Post-WWII parts. Sells working
parts to FFL dealers only.
Phone: 605-343-9544
Reproduced firing pins for 22/32 Kit Gun and HFT
Gun Parts Corp: Successor to Numrich Arms; many guns parts.
226 Williams Lane, West Hurley, NY 12491
Phone: 845-679-2417
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: Gun Parts & Firearm Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts
Jim Horvath: Many parts for all S&W's (large and small) from 1860 up;
can reproduce parts.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Jeff Lee: Lee's Gun Parts (an extensive supply of gun parts, including S&W) (Open to the public on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays).
3401 W. Pioneer, Suite 2, Irving, TX 75061
Phone: 972-790-0773
http://www.leesgunparts.com/
Jan Matlega: Parts for Pre-WWII S&W hand-ejectors.
Mail Address: 528 Eddy Glover
New Britain, CT 06053
Phone: 860-229-6872
Poppert's Gun Parts: http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/
P.O. Box 413
Glenside, PA 19038
Tel: 215-887-2391 Fax: 215-887-5816
Email: [email protected]
Phil Saccacio: Phone: 540-456-6405
e-Mail: [email protected]
Dave Szilagy: Manufactures parts for older S&W's.
Mail Address: 3107 Electric, Lincoln Park, MI 48146
e-Mail: [email protected]
Mike Veilleux: Guns and Gun Parts
All Parts inc. for Pre- and Post-WWII S&W's.
Phone: 413-732-9938
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.gunsnparts.com
Liberty Tree Collectors Phone:207-285-3111
139 Main Street, Corinth, ME 04427
Email:[email protected]
S&W Parts; antique and new
[email protected]
Ph: 352 394-7412
"Schludershots"
https://www.schludershots.com/gun-parts-by-model/s-w-gun-parts.html
Some of those can be a bear to remove but you got it!
At Gun Parts:
Smith & Wesson 24 Revolver Parts, Schematics | Gun Parts Corp.
Gas Ring $7.60
Manufacturer: SMITH & WESSON
Product #: 316910
Following are other potential sources for parts:
Post an adv on this forum under the classified section.
'Guns & Gun Parts' (Recommended by S&W)
(413) 732-9938
983 Westfield St
West Springfield MA 01089-3813
EMAIL: [email protected]
Guns n Parts - New and Used Guns Bought and Sold. no parts list here.
Cyl End shake shims - Michigan Ctr and Sorts
Revolver Cylinder Shims
George Dye (at David Carroll's) for old Smith parts, sight blades, etc.
'GeorgeinSD' is George Dye---205 502-2026 in Birmingham
"Aonepawninc" http://stores.ebay.com/aonepawninc
has a bunch of old S&W parts for sale. I just ordered a complete hammer for my pre model 30 from them. They are very customer oriented and have very reasonable prices. 1/10/16
Dave Bennett: Parts and guns from 1900 up to 1970's.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.22ammobox.com
Jack First: Large selection of Pre- and Post-WWII parts. Sells working
parts to FFL dealers only.
Phone: 605-343-9544
Reproduced firing pins for 22/32 Kit Gun and HFT
Gun Parts Corp: Successor to Numrich Arms; many guns parts.
226 Williams Lane, West Hurley, NY 12491
Phone: 845-679-2417
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: Gun Parts & Firearm Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts
Jim Horvath: Many parts for all S&W's (large and small) from 1860 up;
can reproduce parts.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Jeff Lee: Lee's Gun Parts (an extensive supply of gun parts, including S&W) (Open to the public on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays).
3401 W. Pioneer, Suite 2, Irving, TX 75061
Phone: 972-790-0773
http://www.leesgunparts.com/
Jan Matlega: Parts for Pre-WWII S&W hand-ejectors.
Mail Address: 528 Eddy Glover
New Britain, CT 06053
Phone: 860-229-6872
Poppert's Gun Parts: http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/
P.O. Box 413
Glenside, PA 19038
Tel: 215-887-2391 Fax: 215-887-5816
Email: [email protected]
Phil Saccacio: Phone: 540-456-6405
e-Mail: [email protected]
Dave Szilagy: Manufactures parts for older S&W's.
Mail Address: 3107 Electric, Lincoln Park, MI 48146
e-Mail: [email protected]
Mike Veilleux: Guns and Gun Parts
All Parts inc. for Pre- and Post-WWII S&W's.
Phone: 413-732-9938
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.gunsnparts.com
Liberty Tree Collectors Phone:207-285-3111
139 Main Street, Corinth, ME 04427
Email:[email protected]
S&W Parts; antique and new
[email protected]
Ph: 352 394-7412
"Schludershots"
https://www.schludershots.com/gun-parts-by-model/s-w-gun-parts.html
Last edited:
Jack Flash
Member
You might also want to download this on-line manual that gives disassembly instructions and illustrations. I like the PDF version. Click the link below and scroll down a little so you can see the download options on the right side.
Note that this manual has information for both M1917 Revolvers, Colt as well as S&W.
FM 23-36 Revolver, Colt, Caliber .45, M1917 and Revolver, Smith and Wesson, Caliber .45, M1917 1941 : United States. War Department : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive __________________
Note that this manual has information for both M1917 Revolvers, Colt as well as S&W.
FM 23-36 Revolver, Colt, Caliber .45, M1917 and Revolver, Smith and Wesson, Caliber .45, M1917 1941 : United States. War Department : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive __________________
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