.22 CM repair who to send it to

[Dave Haynes]

I've had this .22 Combat Masterpiece pre 18 4 screw (1957?) for 40 years. K315xxx. It has correct # grips and is in beautiful shape but it has always been a shooter. I reamed the cylinders assembled years ago to stop knocking out the empties with a block of wood. It has never allowed me to disassemble the extractor section as it has been cross threaded or mis- matched threads. I've given up trying to unscrew the extractor and rod and as there was a thread change about this time and the correct parts are just not around anymore. Is there someone with the parts and knowhow to repair his thing. I'm in N. Calif. My favorite gunsmith Andy Anderson from Cinnabar Rifle shop in Petaluma is long gone and I just don't trust any of the local new kids to take it on. It needs someone who understands the thread and direction change and has the vintage parts.
Thanks
D

 

[ms]

Why do you want to take it apart?

 

[Dashriprock]

Numrich has original extractor rods and extractors available for the 18, and Nelson Ford could likely make it all come together.

 

[Dave Haynes]

Why do you want to take it apart?

Because it is about an $800 gun and it isn't right. A really comprehensive cleaning includes removing those parts for inspection cleaning and lubrication. This is not a safe queen. It is a 68 year old jewel that looks new

Numrich has original extractor rods and extractors available for the 18, and Nelson Ford could likely make it all come together.

Thanks, I would imagine that the later K22 parts are the same and the thread and direction won't matter . It is probably going to sacrifice that extractor to get the parts apart. If that is the case, I can do that myself.
Again thanks
D

 

[bigggbbruce]

Maybe it's Loctited. Have you tried some heat.

 

[Dave Haynes]

Maybe it's Loctited. Have you tried some heat.

Good idea, I'll give that a try. Looking at the Numrich parts they are really crummy filthy. Instead of taking an almost new looking part off, I just might leave it alone. Money isn't an object, the parts are just worn out junk. They will work but destroy a pristine gun.
Thanks Bruce....Me Mom's a Bruce..

 

[MajorD]

If it works as intended, they DO NOT need to be taken apart. If it isn’t broken don’t fix it. With my revolvers I run a brush and patch down each chamber and the bore every once in a while and clean under the extractor. No disassembly required in any way at all. Don’t go looking for trouble

 

[Engine49guy]

Hate to state the obvious but cant help myself just in case.
1)is there a groove cut behind the ejector rod knurling or no? ( the groove indicates Left hand thread).
2) Is there an L stamped on the cylinder face?
Im asking since you bought it around 1985 just in case it was sent back and had a new cylinder retrofit (BTW unfortunately by 1985 the groove cut in the ejector rod and L stamp on the cylinder face were discontinued).
I have had luck removing a stubborn ejector rod chucking it up in my drill press with 6 empty shell casings in the charge holes, I also set it in the sun for an hour, in South Florida it gets so hot you cant pick it up with bare hands.

 

[Dave Haynes]

Hate to state the obvious but cant help myself just in case.
1)is there a groove cut behind the ejector rod knurling or no? ( the groove indicates Left hand thread).
2) Is there an L stamped on the cylinder face?
Im asking since you bought it around 1985 just in case it was sent back and had a new cylinder retrofit (BTW unfortunately by 1985 the groove cut in the ejector rod and L stamp on the cylinder face were discontinued).
I have had luck removing a stubborn ejector rod chucking it up in my drill press with 6 empty shell casings in the charge holes, I also set it in the sun for an hour, in South Florida it gets so hot you cant pick it up with bare hands.

This is exactly what I'm looking for Engine Guy. I'm leaning toward the good Major's advice...My other hobbies are watchmaking and vintage pinball machines, I have this tendency to take things apart. That included a '66 Magneto Sportster back in the day. There is so much lost or hidden information on these beautiful pieces of industrial art that becomes more hidden as people get older. I'm 80, the smart move is to leave it as is. Thanks guys
D

 

[Retired W4]

I have taken hundreds of S&W revolvers apart for deep cleaning and lubrication. I leave the ejector rod alone unless there is something wrong with it. Removing one, unless you have the proper tools and knowledge, can cause damage to the rod, especially the knurling at the end. I'm in the "if it ain't broken, don't fix it" camp.

 

[Tom Garrett]

With all due respect, send it to S&W. They have a Lifetime Service Policy on all their handguns. They have totally refurbished 2 Model 10-8s for me. One didn’t even index. It came back working flawlessly. Call their number for the performance center, they’ll email you a label, box the gun up and take it to FedEx, completely legal shipping. They’ll send it to your house when they’re done. Complete overhaul including fresh hot blue was $220. They have a price list for their services.

 

[Retired W4]

You might run into a problem with S&W due to the age of your gun. Any parts they may need after a thorough safety check might not be in stock. It is definitely worth calling them to see if they would take it on. If they send you that shipping label you could be golden. Given the description of your K-22 Combat Masterpiece I would not want to re-blue such a nice gun. In my mind there's a big difference between a late 70's, early 80's 10-8 and a 4 screw pre-18.

 

[steelslaver]

Loctite and most other adhesives break down below 300f which is way lower than the temperature that will effect the heat treat. Get a drill check and tighten on the rod. place 6 empties in the cylinder, heat in oven and using leather gloves, rotate in the correct direction. Recess behind the knurling means left hand thread. no recess means older right hand thread.

 

[26betsam]

I second Nelson Ford. The doctor for S&W's.
Smith & Wesson won't work on older Smith's. Had a .455 Triple-Lock that had issues. They said they wouldn't work on it but they recommended Nelson Ford. His work is highly recommended.

 

[CalifEd]

With all due respect, send it to S&W. They have a Lifetime Service Policy on all their handguns. They have totally refurbished 2 Model 10-8s for me. One didn’t even index. It came back working flawlessly. Call their number for the performance center, they’ll email you a label, box the gun up and take it to FedEx, completely legal shipping. They’ll send it to your house when they’re done. Complete overhaul including fresh hot blue was $220. They have a price list for their services.

Dave,
No need to open for further discussion, and you might know this, but here in California, anything going to the manufacturer (or others) for repairs need to go through an FFL - both going and coming.

 

[N7BLW]

I've had this .22 Combat Masterpiece pre 18 4 screw (1957?) for 40 years. K315xxx. It has correct # grips and is in beautiful shape but it has always been a shooter. I reamed the cylinders assembled years ago to stop knocking out the empties with a block of wood. It has never allowed me to disassemble the extractor section as it has been cross threaded or mis- matched threads. I've given up trying to unscrew the extractor and rod and as there was a thread change about this time and the correct parts are just not around anymore. Is there someone with the parts and knowhow to repair his thing. I'm in anum started shooting loose. Left-hand threads can be detectedN. Calif. My favorite gunsmith Andy Anderson from Cinnabar Rifle shop in Petaluma is long gone and I just don't trust any of the local new kids to take it on. It needs someone who understands the thread and direction change and has the vintage parts.
Thanks
D

Keep in mind the threads were changed to left-hand on all revolver extractor rods after the early 44 magnums started to shoot loose. If there is a single groove immediately behind the knurling on the rod, it's a left-hand thread.

 

[Dan W. Cady]

I've had this .22 Combat Masterpiece pre 18 4 screw (1957?) for 40 years. K315xxx. It has correct # grips and is in beautiful shape but it has always been a shooter. I reamed the cylinders assembled years ago to stop knocking out the empties with a block of wood. It has never allowed me to disassemble the extractor section as it has been cross threaded or mis- matched threads. I've given up trying to unscrew the extractor and rod and as there was a thread change about this time and the correct parts are just not around anymore. Is there someone with the parts and knowhow to repair his thing. I'm in N. Calif. My favorite gunsmith Andy Anderson from Cinnabar Rifle shop in Petaluma is long gone and I just don't trust any of the local new kids to take it on. It needs someone who understands the thread and direction change and has the vintage parts.
Thanks
D

Your ejector rod is revers thread (L/H) before attempting removal insert at least two cartridges or dummys to prevent damage to the extractor star. I use leather to protect the knurled end when using small vise grips to effect removal. if you have doubts let a pro do it. Again why are you messing with it?

 

[Dave Haynes]

Thanks all for the help and info. I have taken many of these apart over the 65 years of using firearms. When I was reaming out the cylinder I thought it would be easier with the cylinder out and the problem surfaced. After a lot of trying this and that, many things that you folks have suggested, I just reamed it assembled and it went perfect. Now the empties come right out without using a wooden block. After reading all of you fine folks input, I'm just going to use it and forget that the problem exists. At 80 I'm in line to the ticket booth to get out of here anyway. My sons can deal with it or leave it as is. Again, thank you all, I really appreciate it !!!
D

 

[2152hq]

If it is a RH threaded rod, it's not all that unlikely someone in the past used something on the threads to 'fix' the annoying problem of the rod unscrewing itself during use.
Finger tightening no matter if you were Superman usually wouldn't do it and most people didn't want to take a pliers to the thing. Though some do show evidence of it.

If not Loctite, other more common substances were often used for loose fittings back then.
One was common shellac or varnish. Applied to the clean threads and reassembled, they were usually
tied together quite well. Often used on scope and sight mount screws.
Not much heat is needed to loosen these two up.

Another was to place some Iodine on the threads and assemble.
The iodine makes the clean steel of the threads rust so they don't unscrew easily,,or at all.
That can be a real problem if trying to disassemble and very small diameter, fine threaded fasteners can shear off.

Hopefully it's not that.

The different Loctite and similar formulas breakdown betw 300 & 400F.
Spring tempering is done at 600 to 700F, so you are safe there as well.

 

[Pocketrocket]

If you need a gunsmith In NorCal try Craig Maraviov in a Woodland.
He has done work for me. I believe he used to work for Davis.