357 Magnum in my J-frame?

[sawlog]

I carry the 60-15 pro. I use and shoot federal 125 grain jhp c357b
575 ft pound at 1440 fps. I don't know what the stats are on my 3in barrel. I think it will hold up just fine, shot a lot of 357 thru it. yes it kicks pretty good. but nothing that would make you want to stop. never shot a gun with gloves on, I would think you wouldn't have as good of grip. but I could be wrong

 

[labworm]

Some people shoot .357's out of their J frame's.

I shot 5 out of my 60-15, and now I am no longer considered some people.

 

[Boogsawaste]

I'm not very recoil sensitive, but having recently put some BB Heavy .38+P 158 grain LSWHC through a J Airweight, I can attest it has thump to it very similar to a stout .357 load through a steel K-frame.

Mid-range .357 through a steel J -- which I shot immediately after -- recoiled less than Heavy BB through a light J.

Thanks. I was kind of thinking this was the case with their ammo. A 158 moving at those speeds is gonna feel the same wether it's called +p or magnum, it has no idea what it's called. I really need to pick some up one day!

 

[Hapworth]

Thanks. I was kind of thinking this was the case with their ammo. A 158 moving at those speeds is gonna feel the same wether it's called +p or magnum, it has no idea what it's called. I really need to pick some up one day!

Indeed, and from BB especially. Don't know what voodoo they're using -- it's good stuff, but I wonder if it's SAAMI.

Both their Heavy .38+P and Standard Pressure .38 158 LSWHC loads are good stuff. I'd reserve the Heavy if you want to make low end .357 numbers in a .38, and I'd choose the revolver accordingly, e.g., all steel; use the Standard Pressure when I wanted to mimic the FBI load, for use in any personal defense revolver including Airweights (where you'll feel 'em, yes, but I find it quite manageable).

For what it's worth, in a snubby Airweight .38 I find both Speer Gold Dot SB and CorBon DPX loads to recoil noticeably less compared to either BB loads, and both still perform exceptionally as defense rounds (for those looking for good stuff that doesn't bite).

 

[G-Mac]

Superior ballistics. Simple physics and there's no arguing it

Whether the trade-off in what's ballistically gained is worth the cost of generally greater recoil, flash and bang, and slower follow-up shots is debated endlessly.

But there is no denying that when a .38 and a .357 are put through the same revolver, be it snubby or long barrel, the .357 will generate greater numbers -- and for some people that's worth it.

Obviously a .357 has superior ballistics. But that means nothing if you can't hit your target. J-frames were not intended for .357 Magnum. Just because you "can", doesn't mean you "should".

 

[G-Mac]

Ever been in a Firefight where your life was at stake?

If so, did you feel you had too much gun?

I'd want a gun that was designed to shoot the round that was loaded in it. It's not about "too much gun", it's about getting back on target after the first shot...as I understand it.

 

[Cal44]

I'd want a gun that was designed to shoot the round that was loaded in it. It's not about "too much gun", it's about getting back on target after the first shot...as I understand it.

I agree, but my thinking is IF I can master it (ie hit what I'm aiming at and make followup shots), the 357 gives me an edge over 38sp.

And my 60-15 is made for 357 magnum. Materials engineering has advanced a lot since the 50's when the j frame was first introduced.

 

[Hapworth]

Obviously a .357 has superior ballistics. But that means nothing if you can't hit your target. J-frames were not intended for .357 Magnum. Just because you "can", doesn't mean you "should".

You asked the question, you got the answer.

J-frames weren't originally built for .357; now they are, and they can handle it. I suppose you only shoot .357 out of L and N-frames because Ks weren't originally built for it either? I'll gladly take your ill-used 13s, 19s, 65s and 66s.

You've decided .357's not for you in a J because you feel you can't make the follow-up shots. Good. You know what's best for you; a man's got to know his limitations.

Others think they can make the follow-up; some even probably know they can. That's fine, too.

The point is we try and make informed decisions for ourselves, usually based on compromised options, but the rules aren't hard, fast or universal on these things...

 

[G-Mac]

You asked the question, you got the answer.

J-frames weren't originally built for .357; now they are, and they can handle it. I suppose you only shoot .357 out of L and N-frames because Ks weren't originally built for it either? I'll gladly take your ill-used 13s, 19s, 65s and 66s.

You've decided .357's not for you in a J because you feel you can't make the follow-up shots. Good. You know what's best for you; a man's got to know his limitations.

Others think they can make the follow-up; some even probably know they can. That's fine, too.

The point is we try and make informed decisions for ourselves, usually based on compromised options, but the rules aren't hard, fast or universal on these things...

My opinion was formed before I asked the "question".

If one feels that they will be finding themselves in a "threat level" situation that would require .357 Magnum power, why not carry a gun that holds six of them in a slightly larger (K) frame? Or an 8-round .45 auto for that matter? Makes sense to me. When I carry, it's usually a 649 loaded with .38 Specials. That's plenty enough gun for my perceived threat level (low) in my normal activities. If I know that I have to be in the bad part of town, at night, I might carry my 3" Model 13 or 2-1/2" Model 66 loaded with .357 Magnum. It's a matter of what's right for the situation. If somebody feels they can handle a J-frame loaded with full-house Magnums, that's their decision. Good for them. Let's hope they never need to use it. I just think there's smarter choices....if you have, say, a K-frame at your disposal. Just my opinion formed from shooting thousands of rounds of .357 Magnum out of all kinds of guns.

Edit....just looked at my original post....there was, and is, no question.

 

[Chukar60]

I have a 3" 60-10. Chambered for 357 mag. I have shot exactly one cylinder of 357 shot through it. Call me a she-man, but that was enough for me. I am confident the 60-10 can handle a regular diet of 357 mag, I see no reason for my hands to endure it.

 

[G-Mac]

And my 60-15 is made for 357 magnum. Material engineering has advanced a lot since the 50's when the j frame was first introduced.

That's funny....I think that S&W engineering has regressed since the 50s. My newest S&W is a 649 no dash. It was my first S&W. In fact, it's the only S&W I have that was purchased new.

Most of my S&Ws are pinned and recessed. My 649 no dash and 13-3 are the exceptions to that. None of my guns take a key.

 

[Road Rat]

The only J Frame .357 I have is my 640-1 and I only shoot .357's from it.

I don't use it as a weekend "plinker" but I don't find the magnum ammo too bad. The orange ball from the muzzle does bother folks in the next lane at the indoor range!!!

 

[Mountain Walker]

In my personal experience the short 2" barrel fired with full 357 has too much muzzle blast to make the gun practical. I shot my Ruger SP101 with full house loads and then 38Spl +P Speer loads. The results were no better than my old Model 60 rated at 38Spl +P. Shortly after after that nice bit of comparison shooting at the range, I sold my 357 Ruger and just stayed with the nice Model 60 in 38Spl +P.

If I had to have more power, I would go for a beautifully made "N" frame snubby in 45ACP or 44Mag. It might be more practical to drink the Cool-Aid and get a Glock 27 or XDs in 45ACP for more power.

What ever I decided, it would have to work well on paper.

 

[Mark6005]

Have the same gun in 2.5 inch luckily it came with soft grips the 357 does make itself known. The ruger sp101 same barrel much better but I prefer 38's from both.

 

[Chrisj357]

I have found that for me it is what I become used to while shooting. I put 50 rounds of PMC 44mag through my 329ng which toward the end became my limit with that gun. I then shot my 337ti with 158's standard load & those felt like next to nothing. I have found the full grip combats to be more comfortable on my j frames.

Yep, after a few outings with my .500 I just don't think about the recoil from a .357 anymore. I actually thought I had experienced a misfire the first .357 round I shot after only shooting full power 500 magnum loads.

Granted I don't have a J-frame that shoots .357, that would up the ante a bit, but still I think as stated , felt recoil is relative to what you are accustom to.

I have been shooting .357 some 44magnum and now 500 magnum for over 30 years and no nerve damage that I know of unless that's why I can no longer feel the recoil of a .357.....lol (kidding)

Bottom line, I think if you practice with bigger than you want to carry and be proficient with it will help greatly.

 

[regalsc]

When I got my m&p 340 back in 2012 the first time I shot 357 out of it I received more than I expected as far as the jolt to the hand goes. I got through 1 cylinder & then put some 38's through it. I had bought some cor-bon 125 357's to carry & put 1 cylinder through it for a function test. I have since sold it to a forum member because I found a (no lock) 340pd I purchased. I found by going to larger 3 finger grips the recoil with 38's is not bad at all but with 357's is still stout although not as bad as my first shots probably have gotten somewhat used to it. I feel it fills my needs for close range SD with no empties flying out & slide going back & forth.

 

[at_liberty]

In my personal experience the short 2" barrel fired with full 357 has too much muzzle blast to make the gun practical. I shot my Ruger SP101 with full house loads and then 38Spl +P Speer loads. The results were no better than my old Model 60 rated at 38Spl +P. Shortly after after that nice bit of comparison shooting at the range, I sold my 357 Ruger and just stayed with the nice Model 60 in 38Spl +P.

If I had to have more power, I would go for a beautifully made "N" frame snubby in 45ACP or 44Mag. It might be more practical to drink the Cool-Aid and get a Glock 27 or XDs in 45ACP for more power.

What ever I decided, it would have to work well on paper.

This doesn't seem to acknowledge all the alternatives within revolvers, not necessarily S&W. For example, one might carry a Bulldog in 44 S&W Special or be among those who own a vintage S&W 696, again in 44 S&W Special, 5-shot.

And then there are the SA guns, if one is able to carry a 6 round cylinder and accompanying frame size.

 

[Edmo]

The only J Frame .357 I have is my 640-1 and I only shoot .357's from it.

I don't use it as a weekend "plinker" but I don't find the magnum ammo too bad. The orange ball from the muzzle does bother folks in the next lane at the indoor range!!!

I like my all stainless 640 also...

Mine is the Pro Series and weighs around 23 ounces so not an ultra light scandium gun. It has just enough weight to take the sting out of magnum loads.

I tend to do most of my practice with 38 and 38+P rounds and run several cylinders of 357 through it at the end of practice. I then carry with 357s.

Firing 357s in an all steel J frame can be somewhat energetic, but they are manageable. My current carry load is the Hornady 125 grain Critical Defense 357s. I have found their muzzle flash is more muted in the short barrel as compared to some of the other rounds out there.

Everyone has a different level of recoil tolerance. I've found practice with other 357 and 44 Magnum guns tends to make it less of an event when I shoot 357s in my 640. My ability to handle both the recoil and blast is much easier with practice.

Be safe out there.

Edmo

 

[Hapworth]

My opinion was formed before I asked the "question".

If one feels that they will be finding themselves in a "threat level" situation that would require .357 Magnum power, why not carry a gun that holds six of them in a slightly larger (K) frame? Or an 8-round .45 auto for that matter? Makes sense to me. When I carry, it's usually a 649 loaded with .38 Specials. That's plenty enough gun for my perceived threat level (low) in my normal activities. If I know that I have to be in the bad part of town, at night, I might carry my 3" Model 13 or 2-1/2" Model 66 loaded with .357 Magnum. It's a matter of what's right for the situation. If somebody feels they can handle a J-frame loaded with full-house Magnums, that's their decision. Good for them. Let's hope they never need to use it. I just think there's smarter choices....if you have, say, a K-frame at your disposal. Just my opinion formed from shooting thousands of rounds of .357 Magnum out of all kinds of guns.

Edit....just looked at my original post....there was, and is, no question.

Like I said, endlessly debated -- which means there's no definitive answer, only informed (or not) opinions among a compromised set of options.

The decision is personal, which of course explains why some take differences in opinion on these issues so...personally.

Your points are excellent, and happen to reflect the personal conclusions I've arrived at too for how I carry. But our choices only reflect a small slice of viable options. With the wide array of J-frame configurations and loads for all occasions, there are several legitimate arguments for the right .357 round in the right J-frame.

Again, no hard and fast rules here.

And yes, I looked at your original post and you're right, there was no question. Your exact statement was it's beyond you; I'll take you at your word.

 

[skrazo]

What I gather from reading the above posts is: 'Experiment with different guns and loads. Then do what is "right" for you.' I routinely practice paper and swinging steel targets with a 642, reloads, just below +P level. I "carry" Hornady Extreme Defense cartridges. I also have a Ruger SP-101, 3 inch barrel, which I shoot 357's loaded for about 950 fps, reloads. I like the "feel" of shooting both that way. Different strokes for different folks.