3rd Gen Obsolete?

I guess what puzzles me is there were all a great fit in the case gauge. I don't use a case gauge often but when testing a new pistol, I want to make sure it's the ammo and not some other condition that could cause trouble so for the most part I'll use new brass to eliminate any possible nicks that may be on the rim or web that could give the extractor a hard time. Maybe I should use the barrel for a gauge instead.

I figured since I set the OAL of those LRN bullets to about the same length as the factory hard ball, all should be well. Apparently not despite the gauge taking the finished round flush.
 
I remember one time when the former (ret) head armorer was cleaning up one of my .45 barrels (3rd gen). He was teaching me how to use the finishing reamer. He pointed out a tight/high spot that the reamer had reached and cleaned up in the barrel throat (leade).

He discussed how it could have adversely affected inherent accuracy, theoretically, but I could see how it might also have been a problem if I'd been shooting RNL with a slightly fatter (or variable) profile than typical, just up from the case mouth. Dunno.

Sometimes using RNL/SWC bullets can introduce the chance for some "less-than-precise" (or maybe less than consistent?) bullet profiles & ogives, right?

I remember the days of using a specific Commander barrel as my "case gauge" for checking my reloading. :)
 
Actually I seat the bullet to the length of 1.255" which puts it right about at the top of the band marked as .422" in the right sketch. This is the bullet from the custom mold I make the bullets from. So, That shouldn't be a factor in that it's smaller than barrel diameter.

I noticed in checking right at the mouth of the case with a loaded rounds I brought home, the diameter ranged from .472-.475". I don't know why the variance since they all go through the same taper crimp die. I'm going to "tighten up" to about .468".

Accurate Molds: Custom Bullet Molds
 
Thanks so much for the great info in your posts. Now i don't think i need to worry about buying parts.

I think that people need to worry that no one will remember how to service these fine pistols in the future :)....

PS. Do the ejector, sear lever, and firing pin lever really need to be fit or do they drop in if replaced?


Fastbolt said:
Fitting a new extractor typically involves filing & fitting it to a particular slide. Fitting it requires the use of a factory GO/NO-GO bar gauge. ($70 tool)

The extractor spring tension is checked using a force dial gauge, which checks tension at the onset of extractor deflection. ($150 tool) The factory has an assortment of different strength extractor springs available, so a tech/gunsmith/armorer can use whichever spring provides the desired tension in any particular gun. I'd use factory extractor springs, myself.

Unless you're a gunsmith or factory trained armorer, I'd have the factory, or one of their authorized warranty centers, do the work if that sort of repair is ever necessary.

The little springs that fit in the frame under the ejector (left side) and the sear release lever & firing pin safety lever (right side) hardly ever require replacement because they've worn out ... (I've never had one wear out) ... but usually because they were lost during disassembly. ;)

The plunger springs in the slide, under the rear sight, can require replacement when someone removes & re-installs the rear sight base, and the top coil(s) gets bent/clipped by the leading edge of the sight base during reassembly.

I've never had a factory drawbar plunger spring wear out, either, but I've had a reduced power spring wear out and allow Skips-DA to occur.

I've sometimes (not often) come across a weakening firing pin spring.

Never wore out a factory main (hammer) spring.

A mag catch spring can get corroded or rusty if the gun is subjected to the wrong conditions without occasional inspection/service.

The trigger play spring might wear and break at some point, but the gun runs without it (just has some additional slop in the SA trigger). Folks trying to "adjust" it all the time cane break it, though.

The manual safety body plunger & ambi lever plunger springs can become lost during a detailed diassembly (or worse, mixed up, which can cause functioning problems). Never wore any out, but I've lost an occasional ambi lever spring. :eek:

Now, mag & recoil springs? I'd keep enough each of the factory springs for periodic replacement/repair. :)
Click to expand...
 
Fastbolt is the man to answer this but the only thing I know of that required a factory fix is the extractor due to the staked in pin and special equipment for measuring tension we don't have nor do we know exactly which spring to use.
 
I asked fast bolt a bunch of questions. I think he got tired of me;)

BTW for those that don't know some Numrich parts are used and no good at all. I bought a side plate assembly recently that has certainly been used before and the pin on the assembly is very loose.....

The way i see it is that most parts wont break on these pistols that are not heavily used. No need to stock up on parts since it's impossible to tell what may give out.
 
That's why I buy S&W revolvers, preferably older ones and Glock semi-autos. The magazines of today fit the original models.
 
18DAI said:
The GUNS are not obsolete. No comment on those of us using them. ;) :)
Click to expand...

I've had some folks give me looks suggesting both are obsolete. ;)

And while it's a good thing when any good people outshoot me, the nay-sayers dislike admitting how well my 5906's perform. That speaks for itself... :)
 
I've tried stocking repair parts for the guns I own that are no longer made. So far the only parts that have needed replacing were the ones I didn't get spares for! I usually end up on a long and frutrating search on eBay and Gunbroker for the parts I need. If you're like me you can't win no matter what you do, so I vote to just relax and go shooting, and if something ever happens to break deal with it then. The only exception I'd make to that rule is if a firearm is used regularly for competition or for self defense, in which case an actual backup pistol or rifle is still probably the better plan anyway.
 
mlk18 said:
I know S&W has made several interesting 3rd Gens for the NYPD in recent year, presumably for off duty use. They seem to have the only supply of the 3914DAO and the 3914TSW. And to confirm what ladder13 said, I have seen a few police-trade-in Kahr K9's on the market recently. I was wondering where they were coming from.
Click to expand...

I'm still looking for a 3586 that Smith made for the NYPD. No luck so far.
 
This thread, like so many, has been an education. I've a handful of 3rd gen 45xx/CS45 and appreciate the effort of the experts like Fastbolt and 18DAI who add some much here.

Feel free to resume... :)
 
Ditto what paddlingman says. This thread has encouraged me to hang on to my aluminum-framed 9's for parts if nothing else. I'm getting into the habit of saving just about everything fastbolt writes on my computer. It is unusual for professionals to invest so much time and effort in sharing their expertise with hobbyists and novices.
 
Check out Numrick gun parts in New York,lots of magazine parts,The magazine spring # I believe is"552080" or maybe (352080)??? They appear to have plenty of mag parts for the 4506 family.
 
kbr1 said:
Check out Numrick gun parts in New York,lots of magazine parts,The magazine spring # I believe is"552080" or maybe (352080)??? They appear to have plenty of mag parts for the 4506 family.
Click to expand...

I was just over on their site and discovered the same thing.
 
I have a three gun stable of 3rd. Gens. Smiths. Maybe it's time to retire them and go to a different gun maker. I have been a loyal customer for over 25 years,but I can show as much loyalty to S&W as they show to the customer. Maybe its time to go to Kahr or Glock or Sig.
 
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