4006 slide stuck/jammed

I'm thinking maybe drilling the case with a 1/16th drill bit to try and get the rim to rip off and maybe then the slide would move to field strip it. and like you said beating isn't working. Foxy

Instead simply push in on the tail of the extractor and it will disengage from the rim!

Since the slide is this far back the barrel has already been cammed down as far as it will go. Try using a nylon punch and drive down on the barrel hood to be sure the locking lugs are disengaged and then try to move the slide while holding the extractor in (disengaged).

Finally, and I hope this isn't the situation, possibly it is battering of the locking lugs! Have you noticed any burring of the locking lugs and their recesses in the slide when cleaning the gun? I was my departments armorer during a large part of the time we had Model 39s. The 39 and 59 use the same top end, so this applies to either model ( or series for that matter). Due to improper fitting of barrels to slides (Not S&Ws fault!!!, Prior armorer.) we had quite a few guns that experienced severe battering of the barrel and slide lugs. Typically the gun would lock up severely and suddenly while shooting it. Sometimes when it closed, sometimes when the slide came back when cycling. When this happened it took simple brute force to first drive the slide back so the slide stop could be removed, and then driving the slide and barrel forward off the frame. The barrel and slide could then be disassembled normally.

NOTE: Use a soft faced or dead-blow hammer, no brass, steel etc. or you will definitely destroy it.

Once the above damage occurred I would salvage the rear sight, safety and associated parts, and the extractor. The barrel and slide went back to S&W in exchange for new parts!

Another possible situation is shown in the attached pictures. This is not a S&W, it is a Tanfoglio .41 Action Express barrel. The function is identical to the S&W guns however, and when this happened the gun behaved just as our Model 39s did. And, please, no speculation as to what happened! I made the cases from .41 Magnum, loaded the ammunition which was well below what should have been a maximum! Charged cases inspected 100% for charge volume before seating bullets. There was virtually no damage to the gun and a new barrel fixed it and it has been shot considerably since this event. Nothing typical of a KB, just a soft "Pfft" sort of sound and the gun was locked tighter that a rat's butt. IT WAS NOT A SQUIB!!! I was chronographing the load and the previous rounds all registered. The one that did the damage did too, less than 500 FPS! This was not a high pressure event!

It will be interesting to see what you find when you get this apart.

I have more pictures if anyone wants to see them! Note the distinct bend in the second photo, this is what made it so hard to get the barrel and slide apart!
 

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Has the inside of the barrel been closely examined, as much as is possible, (unless one of your machinists has a small scope?), to see if a barrel obstruction or over-pressure event might've damaged the barrel?

This may not be possible to see (from the muzzle) if the chamber has been blown/peeled where the stuck case is blocking your view, though.

Sometimes a slightly ringed barrel may not be so easily noted by the eye. For example, if a barrel can be removed from a slide, sometimes a slight bulge can be detected if the barrel is inserted, muzzle first (backwards) into the slide's "bushing" opening. If the barrel stops before the hood/lug is reached, there might be a very slight bulge not so easily noticed by the human eye.

If the firing pin checks out fine, and the chambered case isn't being held fast by the FP nose being stuck inside the primer ... and the barrel isn't ringed/bulged ... I'd be wondering if the something happened with an over-pressure load (bullet setback, overcharge, etc) which somehow caused the barrel/frame camming lugs to fail to engage normally. If so, you could have a damaged, "welded" mess inside, meaning damage to the camming surfaces which can't be fixed.

I'd still not rule out some other things that could've gone wrong, of course. Like a guide rod which came apart at the head/collar, and is somehow mangled in some weird manner.

This really deserves the attention of a smith experienced with S&W 3rd gen's, or a factory tech (who may have seen something of this sort at one time or another).
 
Well, Alk8944 and I were busy posting at the same time. If I'd seen his posting before I'd written mine, I could've saved myself the trouble. ;)
 
The tail of the extractor can be pushed and no effect on the jam.You can see plastic marks in the picture. Tried down pressure on the barrel hood,no effect. Got the slide back this far with as I said range clearing method,muzzle down on the bench and pounded the back of the grips with my palm. Now the slide will not return to battery either driving or steady As far as I know it was shot with factory ammo. At least that is what was sent with it and some came back with it.
 
Also if you look at the second photo you can see the barrel hood is moved downward.
 
Also the firing pin looks fine,is spring loaded and moves easy as pie in and out -1/8th-!/4th inch. Foxy
 
Does that mean the firing pin has been removed? Otherwise, how can you tell if the front of it has been broken off and stuck in the case's primer?

Also, even if the FP nose isn't broken off, if the FP can be removed, then a strong light might be able to let you look down the FP channel and see if a ruptured primer has allowed some primer flow to occur (back into the breech face), which could also be binding the case and preventing it from dropping further (and therefore, the barrel).

Binding caused by damaged camming lugs on the side of the barrel and inside the frame can be more problematic, and may well mean the barrel and frame are toast. They stopped making runs of the older 4006 barrels back in the mid 2000's, as the CHP here in CA discovered when they found some of their well-worn and aged 4006's needed new barrels. As I understand, the company had to laboriously hand-modify the thicker TSW barrels to make some repair barrels that would fit in the older 4006's.
 
Well the armorer Has had the Smith for a about a week now and no word yet other then -***, It makes no sense- when he first saw it. I'll keep ya'll in the loop,he was to work on it this weekend if possible. Foxy
 
Would but hes gone somewhere???? and cant beat her since shes gone too!!! but did think of kicking the cat.......Foxy
 
Slide jam

I agree with BMCM and Fastbolt the barrel has to drop to allow slide to unlock. I have over a dozen 3rd gen smiths but I bow to the superior knowledge and expertise of these two and several other forum members when it comes to issues such as these. BMCM could probably build you a complete 4006 from scrap aluminum and stainless forks and spoons.
 
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Grab the slide with your off hand and take strong hand and literally palm the **** out of the grip.



This happened to me once with a Corbon 115 and a ****ty LWD barrel. Had to call them and he talked to me when it was stuck...
 
@ deaheat, That has been done many times and is how I got the slid back as far as it is now If you read the post we are now up to the gun in a press and trying to get the slide to move either forward into battery or back to release. If you look at the picture you can see the barrel is dropped some and its not going anywhere else,its like the slide is welded right where it is. Foxy
 
maybe one of the 3 little levers that stick out top of frame is broke and sticking up ? would keep slide from moving back
 
The pro has it still and has just been super busy building ar's. He's gonna look at it for me as a favor. He's built many competition 1911's and should be able to figure it out,soon i hope cause I'm curious too!!! Foxy
 
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