44HE 2nd Model Hard Hammer Pullback

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I have assembled a 44HE, put Wolf reduced power mainspring, new rebound spring (standard), and cylinder stop spring (extra strength). DA is OK and smooth. The hammer is "new" old stock having never been in a gun before. Problem is, that the SA pullback is hard and not smooth. Let off is about 4#s. I cleaned up the cylinder notches (burrs) as one was sticking on the CS and dragging on one chamber. The gun is very tight with zero play and a cylinder/barrel gap of .004. The hammer pullback is hard on each chamber, but harder on one. What do I look for. No drag marks on the face of the cylinder. No wobble in the ejector rod. The pullback is so hard it leads to the hammer spur slipping off my thumb. Not good! Your thoughts.
 
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DA

DA is good, it is smooth but not soft, about 6#s. I guess what I'm asking is what are the factors that influence a hard SA pullback. How much influence is the rebound slide spring on SA function as opposed to DA function?
 
Timing could be different between SA and DA. The hand would need narrowed.

I would recommend getting a copy of Kuhnhausen's.
 
Hammer

I took your suggestions and went back and disassembled the gun to check the hand and passed a micro-file through the window to make sure it was not sticking. It is a bit smoother but still hard to pull back with a bit of drag that I am yet to determine its source. The timing is really good with both SA and DA, even on a very slow SA. I have a copy of Kuhnhausen's shop manual and have read pages 41-46 with a passion. I even got one of my old 2nd model 44HEs out of the safe and took off the side plate to compare the two. I am also working the action a lot thinking that maybe the new parts need to "work in". Still a work in progress, but a bit better. Will revisit the hand issue. I'm always open to your suggestions. Thanks for your help.
 
A few more possible thoughts.

Have you checked the alignment of the yoke?
Is the ejector rod bent?
Is the rod on the extractor star bent where it screws into the extractor rod?
What is the barrel/cylinder gap when you start cocking the gun?
If you back out the strain screw one or two turns, does it become easier?
Is it easier with the sideplate off?
Is the hammer rubbing on the locking bolt?
Does the cylinder rotate freely (spin) on the yoke?
 
Using Wolff ribbed mainsprings with early guns sometimes causes binding on the stirrup at full single action cock. If that's the problem, you just have to grind a bit off the split 'fingers' of the mainspring.
 
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