4506 Trigger Play Spring

[Fastbolt]

Thanks for the info. I've purchased two LE tradeins recently, one a S&W 4513TSW with the trigger play spring completely broken off and the other a S&W 4006 CHP tradein that had both the trigger play spring AND the rivet gone.

I wonder if S&W simply didn't install the trigger play spring when the 4006 was built at the factory at the CHP's request or if it was removed by a CHP armorer when they got the pistol inhouse?

Seems if the armorer wanted to remove the spring that he would simply break it off from the drawbar rather than going to the trouble to disassemble the pistol to remove both the spring and the rivet.

I was also impressed that the CHP 4006 had an identification number (A4257 or something like that) laser etched (???) on the frame, slide and barrel.

Thanks again for the information. I appreciate it.

The CHP weapon officer told me that the springs & rivets were removed from all of the older 4006's after they had been in-service for some time. The new 4006TSW's however, were supposedly ordered without them. I can't confirm that because I haven't looked inside one yet.

For someone who's trained to do so, it's so simple to remove the drawbar that it wouldn't make sense for anyone trained as an armorer (or especially as a gunsmith) to consider doing it any other way. I can break down the frame and have the drawbar out on the bench in a couple of minutes if I'm taking my time. Then the rivet can then be punched completely out of the drawbar, using a small pin punch, and then the spring lifted off the drawbar.

This is how easy it is to punch out the rivet holding the spring base onto the drawbar ...

... and this is how the new spring is installed and riveted in place ...

... and it should look like one of these when it's installed ...

The real trick not shown is inserting the itty-bitty, teeny tiny rivet in the hole on top of the spring, into the drawbar, and then keeping it there while you turn the drawbar over to secure the spring & rivet head against the top surface of the drawbar head, using the safe edge of the file as your working surface while you flatten the end of the rivet. It's not uncommon to need 2 rivets to perform the repair, since 1 is bound to get lost or mashed (and if the drawbar isn't held perfectly flat, upside down against the file's safe edge, with even pressure pressing the spring base & rivet head flat against the drawbar, the spring won't be securely fastened onto the drawbar head by the time you're done ).

Naturally, as with most other mechanical procedures it's relatively simple to do once you've been trained to do so and have successfully done it under the watchful eyes of someone teaching you to do it. I'm not suggesting anyone attempt to do it on their own without training, but just showing the images to give you an idea of what's involved when someone trained to make the repair does so ...

 

[A320graham]

5906 spring

Fastbolt just found this from a year ago.

 

[SW CQB 45]

I recall either fastbolt telling me or reading somewhere on rivet retention...is use a small pc of scotch tape to hold the rivet in place when u turn the drawbar over for staking

 

[nun]

I replaced mine for about $7. Thanks to fastbolt and few others for giving me the info and courage to do it. My 4506 is one of my favorite pistols.

 

[hpoelzig]

A simple fix...

My first post as a new member.

I know this is a late post to an old thread, but I wanted to say thanks for the good advice.

I have a police trade-in 4506-1 that was making that nasty "click" at the beginning of the single-action pull. I did a search for "4506 trigger", found this thread and very cautiously used a pencil to nudge that little spring forward a little.

The eraser end wouldn't do much (it just deformed), so I used the flat wooden end and used gradual, gentle, repeated pressures against the two fingers on the spring. As soon as I could see a change to the spring angle (slight forward rake), I stopped, and tested the trigger.

Perfect. No click. No broken spring, either.

Thanks much.

JP

 

[SemperFuzz]

I just had my 4506 tuned up and all new Springs and now the dreaded single action crunchy/Tick noise so i forwarded this info to my gunsmith and he is going to fix me up, thanks guys

 

[nitmr26]

My first post as a new member.

I know this is a late post to an old thread, but I wanted to say thanks for the good advice.
...
Perfect. No click. No broken spring, either.

Thanks much.

JP

Another first post from a new member. Thanks for the great advice on the trigger play spring. After a minor adjustment of the spring, my new to me 4506 no longer has the "click".

This 4506 has a little bit of wear to the finish, but it has the nicest DA/SA trigger pull of any of my pistols.

Thanks again and best regards,

 

[Craig19]

tagged for later reference, nice thread, thanks.

 

[0849]

Back to Life

I recently disassembled the frame on my 3913TSW for a thorough cleaning after using some ammo that seemed to produce a lot of burnt powder residue and upon reassembly noticed the click at the beginning of the single action pull. Found this thread and was able to correct the situation, so thought it might be worthwhile resurrecting the very useful info in case anyone might be experiencing the click with their 3rd gen.

Thank you Fastbolt for all the great info on the draw bar trigger play spring.

 

[RalphK22]

This is very helpful information. Thanks

 

[7tenz]

I boogered mine up in a 411. I straightened it best I could with some needle nose pliars. Then one day at the range it broke off completely and jammed the action. I took it out and never replaced it. Works fine.

I then completely removed the one from my 1006 intentionally, figuring it is an Achilles heel in the design.