Picked up an old 5 Screw, that's in need of a real good cleaning. I removed the trigger guard screw, spring and plunger, but can't seem to get the little bugger out. Does the hammer stud need to be removed in order to complete the process? TIA.
Picked up an old 5 Screw, that's in need of a real good cleaning. I removed the trigger guard screw, spring and plunger, but can't seem to get the little bugger out. Does the hammer stud need to be removed in order to complete the process? TIA.
Ha, I meant the trigger stud...doh. The stop won't come down far enough to clear the window on the bottom of the frame, it hits the trigger stud. It might just need to be slid farther forward for the bevel on the latch to go down far enough to clear the window. I put some kroil around the latch pin, hopefully that will clean it up a bit.You may need to remove the trigger, but that should not be necessary. Once the spring and plunger are out it should simply lift off its stud as long as the stop is down. It is probably nothing more than dried oil that is keeping the cylinder stop from coming out freely. A bit of solvent on the stud should take care of that.
Why would you think the hammer stud would have to be removed????
I just picked the gun up last weekend and wanted to see about bringing it back to life, since it was a gummed up mess. I figured that since I had it taken down that far, I'd just remove the cylinder stop and make it a complete job. But, like you, I decided that I should just leave it in, flush it, blow it out and call it good.The Stud never gets removed (unless it breaks of course)! Sometimes the Cylinder Stop is a bit difficult to sneak out on some revolvers. In your case I'd leave it in place and use some Birchwood casey Gunscubber to get all the crud off and out from behind it. You have an old model and getting a replacement stop at this point might not be as easy as you might think. If it does not come out easily, do not force it and leave well enough alone! I have had some difficult ones and have always succeeded but I've been at this for a while and probably have a replacment somewhere. Just clean it with the Gunscrubber, lightly lube and call it good. You will be thankful you did! Bending or breaking it would be a major pain in the butt!
I just picked the gun up last weekend and wanted to see about bringing it back to life, since it was a gummed up mess. I figured that since I had it taken down that far, I'd just remove the cylinder stop and make it a complete job. But, like you, I decided that I should just leave it in, flush it, blow it out and call it good.
FWIW, do you think that S&W installed the cylinder stop first and then installed the trigger stud? If not, I don't see how the cylinder stop could have been installed. Please, educate me, I love to tinker with these things and increase my knowledge.
Also, I noticed that the cylinder stop spring was bent a bit after I removed it, is that normal, or should it be replaced? It's probably only 115, or so years old...
That spring is probably just crudded up with old oil. Soak with Kroil for a day or two then take a paper clip and put a Teeeny bend in one end, small enough you can insert up the hole. File a sharp edge on it and insert to grab the spring and pull it out.
In the second picture of post #5, The cylinder stop looks different than any I have ever seen. There is not a cutout on the bottom to clear the trigger stud. There is a pin in the side.
It looks like someone modified an original stop by making it 2 pieces and then assembled it in place, driving the pin in last. I don't think you will get that one off without cutting it in 2, between the main body and the trigger pivot pin. Then you would need to pull the part on top of the pin upward through the stop window.