Also "correct" (at least according to Wilson Combat) and I neglected to mention it, but if his ammo goes into a max ammunition gage, that should not be a factor.
625 reload issue, can not close cylinder
- Thread starter tyger2
- Start date
Also "correct" (at least according to Wilson Combat) and I neglected to mention it, but if his ammo goes into a max ammunition gage, that should not be a factor.
Skip Sackett
US Veteran
Yessir! It SURELY is!
Skip Sackett, clinging to his God and his guns since 1983! (I had guns in my life long before I had God! Sad but true!)
fredj338
Member
Ah, the ole LFCD, worthless pice of gear, but it does make them all fit. So do proper relaoding techniques. With mixed brass, you can deform a soft bullet like swaged lead or plated. I like accurate ammo, so ditch the LFCD. 50 foot proof. NTW, 0.468" crimp is deforming the bullet. Pull one, check it, you'll find you swage down even jacketed bullets that tight.
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Pbchucker
Member
Check the rims for any burrs.
I don't know if this will apply to your situation, but I had a similar problem with my reloads for the 625. I finally figured out that any small burr in the rim area of the brass case will make the moon clip push the case backwards and make the cylinder difficult for close. In my case (no pun intended), the brass was fired from a 1911 which left a small burr in the rim. After discovering that, I only used new brass for "the 625 reloads". Hope this might help others having the same problem.
By the way, I later found that 45AR brass was available, and I stopped messing with moon clips. 45 auto rim cases require a different shell holder, but I use the same taper crimp die, readjusted, of course.
I don't know if this will apply to your situation, but I had a similar problem with my reloads for the 625. I finally figured out that any small burr in the rim area of the brass case will make the moon clip push the case backwards and make the cylinder difficult for close. In my case (no pun intended), the brass was fired from a 1911 which left a small burr in the rim. After discovering that, I only used new brass for "the 625 reloads". Hope this might help others having the same problem.
By the way, I later found that 45AR brass was available, and I stopped messing with moon clips. 45 auto rim cases require a different shell holder, but I use the same taper crimp die, readjusted, of course.
AABEN
Member
GET your self a sizing die from Lee and size them. That is what I had to do. Size them before putting the brass.
Lee Final Size Die
Looks like the group run thru the Lee Final Sizing Die was only 1/4 of an inch larger than the other group, is that right? If the only difference in group size is a 1/4 of an inch at 50ft I'll keep running them all thru the Lee die. At least I'll know they will function in any firearm.
Ah, the ole LFCD, worthless pice of gear, but it does make them all fit. So do proper relaoding techniques. With mixed brass, you can deform a soft bullet like swaged lead or plated. I like accurate ammo, so ditch the LFCD. 50 foot proof. NTW, 0.468" crimp is deforming the bullet. Pull one, check it, you'll find you swage down even jacketed bullets that tight.
Looks like the group run thru the Lee Final Sizing Die was only 1/4 of an inch larger than the other group, is that right? If the only difference in group size is a 1/4 of an inch at 50ft I'll keep running them all thru the Lee die. At least I'll know they will function in any firearm.
Glad to know you have it under control. 
