627PC, Wolff springs, Federals required?

[t0066jh]

Posted this in the Gunsmith section and didn't get much response so here it is again.
Just got an almost new 627PC. I plan to use it for ICORE and Steel Challenge. The trigger is smooth but not as light as some I've felt. Before I change out the springs for Wolff Reduced power main and rebound. Am I going to need Federal primers or will my Winchesters work? Federals seem like they are nowhere to be found.

 

[t0066jh]

Posted this in the Gunsmith section and didn't get much response so here it is again.
Just got an almost new 627PC. I plan to use it for ICORE and Steel Challenge. The trigger is smooth but not as light as some I've felt. Before I change out the springs for Wolff Reduced power main and rebound. Am I going to need Federal primers or will my Winchesters work? Federals seem like they are nowhere to be found.

 

[Skip Sackett]

I suppose that would still depend on what you do with the strain screw. I'm sure that even the lighter springs are capable of being cranked on sufficiently to make them work.

Although, the whole idea behind them is to make the trigger as light as possible. To do that AND have it fire every time, Federal primers are a must, period.

I have a M625JM that from the factory needed to have Federal primers. I did that only after reading this from Clark Custom's website, they make Jerry's springs.

Miculek S&W Revolver Spring Kit
(Parts MIC-625) This kit includes a recontoured mainspring and reduced power trigger return spring for optimum trigger pull and fast trigger return. It is designed for competition and speed shooting and fits K, L, and N frame S&W revolvers. For best results, use Federal primers.

FWIW

p.s. Never liked a lightened trigger, just one that had been smoothed.

 

[TSQUARED]

You will be borderline with Winchester primers. I have found Federal Small Pistol primers at Sportsmans Warehouse in Mesa, AZ. You can call them and they will let you know if they have them in stock or when they will get the next shipment.

Originally posted by t0066jh:
Posted this in the Gunsmith section and didn't get much response so here it is again.
Just got an almost new 627PC. I plan to use it for ICORE and Steel Challenge. The trigger is smooth but not as light as some I've felt. Before I change out the springs for Wilson Reduced power main and rebound. Am I going to need Federal primers or will my Winchesters work? Federals seem like they are nowhere to be found.

 

[Spotteddog]

I'm assuming(?) it is a F/P in frame dash?
If so, pull the pin and measure it. If between .011" and .015" longer than stock in length, it's already been changed out and likely will ignite all but the toughest primers?

 

[t0066jh]

Spotteddog
I'm a newbie and you're way over my head.
F/P = firing pin
in frame dash ???? in frame pin rather than on the hammer?
what is stock length?
This is a "like new" gun. Don't think the sideplate has ever been off.
Please help me get "clued in"

Originally posted by Spotteddog:
I'm assuming(?) it is a F/P in frame dash?
If so, pull the pin and measure it. If between .011" and .015" longer than stock in length, it's already been changed out and likely will ignite all but the toughest primers?

 

[Spotteddog]

Sorry JH? "What dash" meant, after a certain dash number of each model, models changed from the hammer to a frame mounted firing pin
I'm at work and can't lay my hands on any spec's? Lot's of folks smarter than I likely will get back to you before me. But yes, F/P = firing pin. Due to it being a Performance Center model, it comes with an action job from the Center? Most likely if it is a P/C gun it also has had the extended length pin done? I'd call the Performance Center give them your serial and ask "do it, or don't it"? That's the delivery room for that baby, after all!

 

[Spotteddog]

While I can't be 100% sure(?) I do believe the long pins are done at the P/C for your model. Is there some specific reason why you want/need to get into specialty spring rates? Hand injury or ailment? Other? Have you run an ICORE course previously? A good solid reliable smooth action on a gun will get you a lot farther than trying to go exotic, IMHO. And your current gun certainly fulfills that requirement! Apologies if I'm addressing a long seasoned master at another discipline. I'm just curious about what your trying to obtain?
This is the one you've got, correct?

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/P...nt_category_rn=15714

 

[imashooter2]

Only testing will tell you. Swap your springs and ask Mr Gun. You can always change them back.

 

[t0066jh]

Thanks for getting back to me. I'm a D shooter about to break thru to C. I've been using a Model 66 with Comp 3 speedloaders. It's had a trigger job and has a lighter trigger than the new 627PC. It's also 100% reliable with Winchester primers (cheaper and better availability) The PC is smooth as silk but has heavier trigger. I also shoot auto with very light triggers. I'm concerned about accuracy with a substantially different feel on the trigger.
It appears this is going to be a trial and error process like Imashooter2 posted.
I was just looking for the voice of experience that says if this is a go or no go deal.

Originally posted by Spotteddog:
While I can't be 100% sure(?) I do believe the long pins are done at the P/C for your model. Is there some specific reason why you want/need to get into specialty spring rates? Hand injury or ailment? Other? Have you run an ICORE course previously? A good solid reliable smooth action on a gun will get you a lot farther than trying to go exotic, IMHO. And your current gun certainly fulfills that requirement! Apologies if I'm addressing a long seasoned master at another discipline. I'm just curious about what your trying to obtain?
This is the one you've got, correct?

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/P...nt_category_rn=15714

 

[Spotteddog]

OK, now I think I'm following.
As posters have suggested above, trying to wring the last bit of performance out of any system will always involve trial and error at some point. I'd say resign yourself to the idea of having to tweak things along the way, in order to have the gun run reliably. Get yourself the proper set of screw drivers, the teardown manual. And then get used to the idea of pulling a side plate, arcing a spring, having spare strain screws so you can try filing one or two every now and then, etc. Also as said above, the gun will tell you what it will/won't like.
Quick and dirty, leave the guts and spring alone for now. Back out the strain screw till the pull gets to where you "like it" and see if the gun does?

 

[t0066jh]

Today I called Wolff springs 800 number. I asked them their opinion. They said. "Our experience is that most, but not all people do not have a problem with light strikes and a requirement to use Federal primers.
They also recommended to start with the #15 rebound spring (the stiffest) and then work your way down to the "feel" and reliability you are looking for.

 

[Spotteddog]

Sorry JH?
When I read your O/P I could have sworn you were asking about the primer requirements for a "Wilson" spring set? But I'm older and I imagine myself to be a lot better than I was?

 

[t0066jh]

Originally posted by Spotteddog:
Sorry JH?
When I read your O/P I could have sworn you were asking about the primer requirements for a "Wilson" spring set? But I'm older and I imagine myself to be a lot better than I was?

You're right. I'm old too and meant to say Wolff springs. Notice I went back in and edited the title. and then, being old forgot to put a note as to what and why I edited. Sorry for the confusion. Guess I'm giving revolver guys a bad reputation.

Joe

 

[t0066jh]

The Wolff Springs went in without a hitch. The trigger is smooth as silk and light just like I wanted it.
The answer is Yes, I will need Federal Primers. This might also be a function of my sometimes inconsistent stroke on the Dillon reloader. When I sit on the couch chamber checking my rounds I frequently find high primers. Will have to revisit all variables.

Joe