A .357 Magnum revolver to look for

[GruffiGummi]

Good Afternoon Everyone,

I don't do a lot of posting to online forums, and this is my first time posting here, so please forgive me if I do/say anything goofy. I mostly just lurk.

Anyway, I own four S&W guns, and I like them all. One of them is a .38 Special revolver from the 1940s (I think) that once belonged to an old friend of the family. I love taking it out and shooting it, but I only fire light loads in it, for fear of harming it in some irreparable way.

Which brings me to my questions: I'd like to find a modern .357 Magnum S&W revolver that I can actually shoot full power .357 Magnum and .38 Special loads in, without fear of ruining a lovely old firearm. I'd like it to have at least a 4 inch barrel, at least a six-shot cylinder and preferably be blued, although in a pinch, stainless works, too. While price isn't too much of a problem, anything more than $1000 would be too rich for my blood. Any suggestions on what to keep an eye out for? Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[P&R Fan]

Welcome to the Forum.
There are a lot of choices for under a Grand.
The K-Frames, which are no longer made but available used are out there. The M19 is a blued one with adjustable sights. The M13 with fixed.
The L-Frame one that is blued is the M586. It is bull strong and has the same grip as a K-Frame
For N-Frames the M27 is the Cadillac of the line. Fancy checkering and all that. They are going for close to your price limit on the used gun market. The M28 is the same as the M27 but with a plainer finish and no checkering. You can find them, again used, for $500-$700 depending on where you are.
For what you describe a M586 is probably your best bet.
Jim

 

[murphydog]

Welcome! You will have lots of suggestions soon, trust me

In new guns, you have the L frame blued 586 Classic (4 and 6") and the 686 (same lengths among others). In the N or larger frame, the blue model 27 is made in 4 and 6.5" and there are several stainless 627 versions. In used guns, the 586 and 27 are available and plentiful on the used market. The K frame model 19 is likely similar to your 1940s .38 Special and since you aren't restricting yourself to that size one of the L or N frame guns seems preferable to that model for regular .357 use. Hope this is helpful.

PS 10000th post! Woo-hoo!

 

[GruffiGummi]

Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions, and for the warm welcome.

I knew I would find some good information here. I looked up some pictures and specs of the 586, and wow!, is that a nice looking piece. The M27 and M28 look and sound awesome, too. Decisions, decisions...

I was going to wait and peruse any suggested revolvers at a gun show that will be here next month, but I may have to preempt that idea and start looking around at my LGSs for one of these.

BTW, congrats, murphydog, on your 10,000th post. I've lurked in enough forums to know that's one heck of a milestone!

 

[shouldazagged]

Welcome to the forum, from Louisville. You'll find this is the best gun forum around for civility, wealth of knowledge and experience, and wonderfully strange humor.

Murphydog, congratulations on the big 10,000!

 

[bananaman]

Welcome to the Forum! I guess that I would have to say a 586 (L frame) It will handle anything you can feed it. There is a stainless finish 686, which is the same gun. Normally you can pick 1 up for around $600. If you don't mind heft, there is the N frame Model 28. Built like a tank!!! Everyone has their own thing, but those are good starting points. Good luck on your quest! Bob

 

[Boogsawaste]

Another vote for a 586. Although if you don't want the adjustable a 581 has fixed sights. Their stainless counterparts would be the 686/681 adjustable/fixed sights.

 

[BAM-BAM]

I would also recommend the 586 as a first .357magnum..... in 4inch for all around use or a 6inch for the range or hunting.

My favorite is a 586-6(IIRC) from about 1996/7 with a 4 inch barrel w/ a factory round butt!


Down the road you can add a Model 19 ,or 2 or 3.... LOL, and/or a 3inch 13 is a great concealed carry piece ( last FBI issue revolver in the 80s).

Good luck with your hunt.

 

[MTKTM]

There is the new 66-8 if you'd like a new gun. It is stainless, however. Another really nice 4" 357 that you see in shops fairly often is the 686SSR (made for IDPA competition, but a great all-around). Sounds like the OP has some nice older revolvers and might enjoy a new one that he can shoot with impunity and not worry about harming an antique.

 

[Voyager28]

Welcome to the forum.

I echo the 586 recommendation. L Frame will take all the full load pounding you can give it. Personally, I prefer the 686 which is the stainless version. But. that's just me. either way, you simply cannot got wrong with either one of the L frames.

Bob

 

[GruffiGummi]

Awesome! Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone. This is exactly what I was looking for.

It's looking like the 586 and 686 are the frontrunners so far, and judging from what I have read about them, I can see why. Not only are they lovely looking pieces, but it sounds like they're built to take all sorts of punishment. I'll keep an eye out for a model 28, too, since they also sound rather nice. Once I hunt one of these down, my Desert Eagle in .357 Magnum is going to be so very jealous, since I probably won't be shooting it as much as I used to.

MTKTM, you're absolutely correct: the S&W .38 Special I currently have is a nice old gun from the 1940's (I think), and every time I take it out, I'm afraid of breaking something on it, even though I only shoot very light load with it. It'll be nice to have a strong, newer revolver with which to shoot more powerful and exciting loads in.

shouldazagged, I love wonderfully strange humor. I guess that's why I spend so much time on the Internet!

 

[bananaman]

Awesome! Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone. This is exactly what I was looking for.

It's looking like the 586 and 686 are the frontrunners so far, and judging from what I have read about them, I can see why. Not only are they lovely looking pieces, but it sounds like they're built to take all sorts of punishment. I'll keep an eye out for a model 28, too, since they also sound rather nice. Once I hunt one of these down, my Desert Eagle in .357 Magnum is going to be so very jealous, since I probably won't be shooting it as much as I used to.

MTKTM, you're absolutely correct: the S&W .38 Special I currently have is a nice old gun from the 1940's (I think), and every time I take it out, I'm afraid of breaking something on it, even though I only shoot very light load with it. It'll be nice to have a strong, newer revolver with which to shoot more powerful and exciting loads in.

shouldazagged, I love wonderfully strange humor. I guess that's why I spend so much time on the Internet!

In my opinion, shooting standard velocity loads in a 40's gun should not be an issue. I was shooting a 1919, M&P .38 quite often. Would I shoot +P, or hot loads???? NO WAY!
If I am wrong, somebody let me know! Bob

 

[Jaymo]

Can't go wrong with a 586.

 

[kaaskop49]

Welcome to the Forum. Poster shouldazagged said it better than I ever could. How dare he?

I'm not really up on the latest production, but some of the recommended models are out-of-print, and I'm not sure about some of the others. I believe the 581 and 681 are no longer produced, same for the 28. Correct me, if I'm wrong. The 686 has become a "flagship" model of sorts, given the many variations available. A good one to go with.

And no, you don't sound or seem goofy! That's my bailiwick and you need my permission to be so. Also remember the only "dumb" questions are the ones not asked. Except if you ask to borrow money! Good to have you on board.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[GreyRider]

686 over 586. Only because I own a 686 & the stainless feels more like a workhorse. If I had a 586, and I wish I did, I would become obsessed with preserving the finish and it would become a safe queen. But that's just me being obsessive. I do it well. Ask my wife.

 

[Doug M.]

Read and research here as much as you can, and consider the use to which you would put it. Are you a rural dweller, who might carry/use it as a tool while out and about? Is for the house only, or for target shooting and plinking? If it were me, I'd say stainless is more practical for an all around gun. Due to my old eyes (which sucked before and are worse now), the adjustable sights are a winner since they are easier to see. I happen to really dislike the full lug barrels such as on the L frames, but that does not change the utility or shootability of them. Do you plan to shoot a steady diet of heavy magnums? A heavier revolver will make that less unpleasant. In a non-stainless gun, the M28 is more practical, but I admit a completely subjective liking for the 5" M27 (and cannot justify the money).

You can read and research and spend only your time, which is not a COST, but an investment in seeing what is out there and might fit your life. See if there are forum members near you ("near" is relative in MT) who can show you different models they have (fitting your hands is a big fat deal). Peruse the WTS ads here; I have bought and sold a couple through here and been happy with the transactions.

 

[epj]

The new model 627's have 8 shot cylinders in the same size as the older ones with 6. A 627 Pro sells for about $850.

 

[Triathloncoach]

I have a 6 inch 586, 19 and 28-2. I like the 28-2 the most and IMHO they generally sell for less $ than the other two - talking shooter grade for each. Now the 27, which I'm certain would be my first choice, is about double the price - IMHO, and I aint gots one.

 

[loeman]

Lots of good suggestions have been posted regarding your questions. I agree, the 586/686 are excellent choices. However, please don't discount the 581/681. They are exactly the same as the 586/686 except they have fixed sights but only come with a four inch barrel. I prefer my 681 over my two 686s. I just love the all business, clean look of the 681 and it shoots just as accurately and has a nicer trigger. Unfortunately, they are somewhat harder to find in excellent condition, unless you are ok with a re-import or ex LEO. Good luck in your search and please let us know what you decide. BTW, I find better deals at my LGSs than I do at shows.

 

[GruffiGummi]

So much good information! I'm going to have to print this thread off and take it with me when I go gun shopping.

Doug M., I really wish that I could say that I'm going to take this gun with me during my weekend grizzly bear wrestling sessions, or some other type of manly pursuit, but this will mostly be just a target pistol for me. However, if I can become somewhat proficient with it, I may drag it along with me if/when I go out hiking.

GreyRider, I know what you mean about obsessing over the finish on guns. When I first got my S&W that I mentioned earlier, I did some research on this board to find a way to preserve the nice blueing that it still has, and I ran into a thread that talked about using a micro-crystalline compound to preserve the finish and prevent finger prints. I even picked some up, although I don't think I ended up using it on this pistol.

Thanks again, everyone, for the excellent advice and information!

 

[Doug M.]

Doug M., I really wish that I could say that I'm going to take this gun with me during my weekend grizzly bear wrestling sessions, or some other type of manly pursuit, but this will mostly be just a target pistol for me. However, if I can become somewhat proficient with it, I may drag it along with me if/when I go out hiking.

*
As good friend with plenty of time at the tip of the spear in both military and LE says, "mission drives the gear train". If you expect to take it hiking etc, that probably changes some of the pieces of the formula. Finish, what loads you use, what length barrel, etc. Note that the inherent mechanical accuracy variance between various models of the same gun may be as great as the variance between barrel lengths. Ergonomic fit, ability to see the sights well, etc is MUCH more likely to be important to your actual shooting performance than barrel length.

If I were carrying a 6+" barrel regularly I'd likely want something like this: (Guides Choice Chest Holster, Original Alaskan Holster). Your physical stature and condition will impact that. A 4" barrel is more portable and flexible if you do not need maximum ballistics; there are lots of good holsters (both models and makers) out there. Don't be surprised if you have to experiment a bit to find one you like. A good belt is mandatory. Not a dress belt from Wally World, or even a good men's store, but a purpose made belt from someone who makes them for people who wear guns. Montana's weather can vary a lot, even in short period, especially when in areas where the altitude changes as you hike. To ME, that speaks in favor of stainless, or if you buy a used gun, one of the high-tech space age super tough finishes.

Tough guy stuff? HAHA! When I was younger and tougher I did very little of it, and now I am smart enough to delegate that to others who are suitable for it. On the other hand, you do want enough flexibility to be able to address any reasonably foreseeable problem, which is at least as likely to be "human" as any other.

 

[lhump1961]

I favor the 586 and don't have any trouble with the finish. I shoot them and clean them as any other gun. Granted, I don't slide them across the concrete or stow them in a tool box but under normal conditions they'll be fine...I never set them on a surface I don't like. Now, this all works fine in my daily life but if the SHTF these guns would be drafted into service 'cause at that point it won't matter any more and they would serve well no matter the finish.

This thread needs some pics....

 

[DR505]

My first .357 Magnum was a 4" Model 27-3. It is a great revolver! It is responsible for my N-Frame addiction!

I like the 586 as well, but don't own one.

 

[Dutchs]

Good Afternoon Everyone,

I don't do a lot of posting to online forums, and this is my first time posting here, so please forgive me if I do/say anything goofy. I mostly just lurk.

Anyway, I own four S&W guns, and I like them all. One of them is a .38 Special revolver from the 1940s (I think) that once belonged to an old friend of the family. I love taking it out and shooting it, but I only fire light loads in it, for fear of harming it in some irreparable way.

Which brings me to my questions: I'd like to find a modern .357 Magnum S&W revolver that I can actually shoot full power .357 Magnum and .38 Special loads in, without fear of ruining a lovely old firearm. I'd like it to have at least a 4 inch barrel, at least a six-shot cylinder and preferably be blued, although in a pinch, stainless works, too. While price isn't too much of a problem, anything more than $1000 would be too rich for my blood. Any suggestions on what to keep an eye out for? Thanks in advance for any help!

TRR8..................

 

[pesty3782]

First duty gun was a 4 inch 686 over 29 years ago. Now I have 2 4 inch 686's 1 2.5 inch 686 and 1 6 inch 686.

My favorite right now is the 2.5 inch

Tony p

 

[shawn mccarver]

As far as a new revolver meeting your specifications, I suggest you try the Classic 586 and the Classic 27.

If you want used, you may run afoul of your criteria concerning use of full power magnum loads and not ruining an older or discontinued model. That said, of the older models the ones that will support use of .357 Magnum loads continuously would be the N frames, which would be 27 or 28 in adjustable sights, or the 520 in fixed sights. The 19 will do fine with 158 grain Magnum loads, but lighter bullets (125 grain and below) can cause problems with the barrel shank and flame cutting or damage. If you get a 19, use nothing lighter than 145 grain loads.

 

[Welder1]

My favorites are the model 19 and 66. They offer the perfect balance of size and concealment ability but will eat a steady diet of heavy loads. Can't go wrong with either.

 

[lonestarjeff]

Another recommendation for the 586 or 686. I've had my 586 since the late 80's & wouldn't part with it. After reading this thread I see a few other models I'd like to have as well!

 

[bstirling]

Doug M says he doesn't like the full lug. I agree and have a 620 that is absolutely a joy to shoot. Accurate and fun! Probably a bit tough to find as it was discontinued in '08. I got a new one from the LGS in April that S&W found! Great gun.

 

[Neumann]

For most purposes, an L-frame 686 is an ideal compromise for a .357 shooter. It is rugged enough to handle a steady diet of factory .357, and an occasional box of BB 158 grain. The grip is essentially that of a K-frame, and fits most hands well. As a modern product from a lawyered up company, the DA is much stiffer than revolvers of the 70s, and the full length barrel lug adds a lot of weight. A 4" 686 has nice balance, and a 3" is more portable and still easy to shoot. 6" is over the top, IMO.

The most elegant .357 is undoubtedly the M-19 "Combat Magnum," or the M66 when rendered in stainless. I just purchased a 66-1, pinned and counterbored, and it is a sweetheart for both DA and SA. The forcing cone is reported to crack when subjected to a steady diet of high velocity 125 grain and lighter projectiles.

N-framed classics, like the 27 "Magnum" and 28 "Highway Patrolman" are the Cadillac of .357 revolvers. They are big, heavy, and stout enough to handle any commercial loads. For a steady diet of BB hunting loads, you might consider having a ball detent installed in the crane lockup, to keep the frame from shooting loose. The holes in the cylinder look almost too small for the revolver. It's about 1/8" larger in diameter than the L-frame cylinder, and the grip is larger. That said, I have no trouble shooting it DA or SA, and I have rather small hands. A 4" pistol that weighs 46 oz can soak up a LOT of recoil.

A used 27 or 28 will fall in the $700-$1000 price range, still in your budget. A new 686 is under $900 (custom shop models run more), if you can find one. The modern N-frame version is the 627, which has a slab sided barrel (cool!) and an 8 round cylinder, at about $1200. The 686 is available in 6 or 7 round versions. The 7 round cylinder is actually stronger, since the notches fall between chambers.