A .357 Magnum revolver to look for

[Doug M.]

Doug M., I really wish that I could say that I'm going to take this gun with me during my weekend grizzly bear wrestling sessions, or some other type of manly pursuit, but this will mostly be just a target pistol for me. However, if I can become somewhat proficient with it, I may drag it along with me if/when I go out hiking.

*
As good friend with plenty of time at the tip of the spear in both military and LE says, "mission drives the gear train". If you expect to take it hiking etc, that probably changes some of the pieces of the formula. Finish, what loads you use, what length barrel, etc. Note that the inherent mechanical accuracy variance between various models of the same gun may be as great as the variance between barrel lengths. Ergonomic fit, ability to see the sights well, etc is MUCH more likely to be important to your actual shooting performance than barrel length.

If I were carrying a 6+" barrel regularly I'd likely want something like this: (Guides Choice Chest Holster, Original Alaskan Holster). Your physical stature and condition will impact that. A 4" barrel is more portable and flexible if you do not need maximum ballistics; there are lots of good holsters (both models and makers) out there. Don't be surprised if you have to experiment a bit to find one you like. A good belt is mandatory. Not a dress belt from Wally World, or even a good men's store, but a purpose made belt from someone who makes them for people who wear guns. Montana's weather can vary a lot, even in short period, especially when in areas where the altitude changes as you hike. To ME, that speaks in favor of stainless, or if you buy a used gun, one of the high-tech space age super tough finishes.

Tough guy stuff? HAHA! When I was younger and tougher I did very little of it, and now I am smart enough to delegate that to others who are suitable for it. On the other hand, you do want enough flexibility to be able to address any reasonably foreseeable problem, which is at least as likely to be "human" as any other.

 

[lhump1961]

I favor the 586 and don't have any trouble with the finish. I shoot them and clean them as any other gun. Granted, I don't slide them across the concrete or stow them in a tool box but under normal conditions they'll be fine...I never set them on a surface I don't like. Now, this all works fine in my daily life but if the SHTF these guns would be drafted into service 'cause at that point it won't matter any more and they would serve well no matter the finish.

This thread needs some pics....

 

[DR505]

My first .357 Magnum was a 4" Model 27-3. It is a great revolver! It is responsible for my N-Frame addiction!

I like the 586 as well, but don't own one.

 

[Dutchs]

Good Afternoon Everyone,

I don't do a lot of posting to online forums, and this is my first time posting here, so please forgive me if I do/say anything goofy. I mostly just lurk.

Anyway, I own four S&W guns, and I like them all. One of them is a .38 Special revolver from the 1940s (I think) that once belonged to an old friend of the family. I love taking it out and shooting it, but I only fire light loads in it, for fear of harming it in some irreparable way.

Which brings me to my questions: I'd like to find a modern .357 Magnum S&W revolver that I can actually shoot full power .357 Magnum and .38 Special loads in, without fear of ruining a lovely old firearm. I'd like it to have at least a 4 inch barrel, at least a six-shot cylinder and preferably be blued, although in a pinch, stainless works, too. While price isn't too much of a problem, anything more than $1000 would be too rich for my blood. Any suggestions on what to keep an eye out for? Thanks in advance for any help!

TRR8..................

 

[pesty3782]

First duty gun was a 4 inch 686 over 29 years ago. Now I have 2 4 inch 686's 1 2.5 inch 686 and 1 6 inch 686.

My favorite right now is the 2.5 inch

Tony p

 

[shawn mccarver]

As far as a new revolver meeting your specifications, I suggest you try the Classic 586 and the Classic 27.

If you want used, you may run afoul of your criteria concerning use of full power magnum loads and not ruining an older or discontinued model. That said, of the older models the ones that will support use of .357 Magnum loads continuously would be the N frames, which would be 27 or 28 in adjustable sights, or the 520 in fixed sights. The 19 will do fine with 158 grain Magnum loads, but lighter bullets (125 grain and below) can cause problems with the barrel shank and flame cutting or damage. If you get a 19, use nothing lighter than 145 grain loads.

 

[Welder1]

My favorites are the model 19 and 66. They offer the perfect balance of size and concealment ability but will eat a steady diet of heavy loads. Can't go wrong with either.

 

[lonestarjeff]

Another recommendation for the 586 or 686. I've had my 586 since the late 80's & wouldn't part with it. After reading this thread I see a few other models I'd like to have as well!

 

[bstirling]

Doug M says he doesn't like the full lug. I agree and have a 620 that is absolutely a joy to shoot. Accurate and fun! Probably a bit tough to find as it was discontinued in '08. I got a new one from the LGS in April that S&W found! Great gun.

 

[Neumann]

For most purposes, an L-frame 686 is an ideal compromise for a .357 shooter. It is rugged enough to handle a steady diet of factory .357, and an occasional box of BB 158 grain. The grip is essentially that of a K-frame, and fits most hands well. As a modern product from a lawyered up company, the DA is much stiffer than revolvers of the 70s, and the full length barrel lug adds a lot of weight. A 4" 686 has nice balance, and a 3" is more portable and still easy to shoot. 6" is over the top, IMO.

The most elegant .357 is undoubtedly the M-19 "Combat Magnum," or the M66 when rendered in stainless. I just purchased a 66-1, pinned and counterbored, and it is a sweetheart for both DA and SA. The forcing cone is reported to crack when subjected to a steady diet of high velocity 125 grain and lighter projectiles.

N-framed classics, like the 27 "Magnum" and 28 "Highway Patrolman" are the Cadillac of .357 revolvers. They are big, heavy, and stout enough to handle any commercial loads. For a steady diet of BB hunting loads, you might consider having a ball detent installed in the crane lockup, to keep the frame from shooting loose. The holes in the cylinder look almost too small for the revolver. It's about 1/8" larger in diameter than the L-frame cylinder, and the grip is larger. That said, I have no trouble shooting it DA or SA, and I have rather small hands. A 4" pistol that weighs 46 oz can soak up a LOT of recoil.

A used 27 or 28 will fall in the $700-$1000 price range, still in your budget. A new 686 is under $900 (custom shop models run more), if you can find one. The modern N-frame version is the 627, which has a slab sided barrel (cool!) and an 8 round cylinder, at about $1200. The 686 is available in 6 or 7 round versions. The 7 round cylinder is actually stronger, since the notches fall between chambers.

 

[at_liberty]

For most purposes, an L-frame 686 is an ideal compromise for a .357 shooter. It is rugged enough to handle a steady diet of factory .357, and an occasional box of BB 158 grain. The grip is essentially that of a K-frame, and fits most hands well. As a modern product from a lawyered up company, the DA is much stiffer than revolvers of the 70s, and the full length barrel lug adds a lot of weight. A 4" 686 has nice balance, and a 3" is more portable and still easy to shoot. 6" is over the top, IMO.

The most elegant .357 is undoubtedly the M-19 "Combat Magnum," or the M66 when rendered in stainless. I just purchased a 66-1, pinned and counterbored, and it is a sweetheart for both DA and SA. The forcing cone is reported to crack when subjected to a steady diet of high velocity 125 grain and lighter projectiles.

What about the new 66 without the stigma of failure with 125 gr high velocity ammo?

N-framed classics, like the 27 "Magnum" and 28 "Highway Patrolman" are the Cadillac of .357 revolvers. They are big, heavy, and stout enough to handle any commercial loads. For a steady diet of BB hunting loads, you might consider having a ball detent installed in the crane lockup, to keep the frame from shooting loose. The holes in the cylinder look almost too small for the revolver. It's about 1/8" larger in diameter than the L-frame cylinder, and the grip is larger. That said, I have no trouble shooting it DA or SA, and I have rather small hands. A 4" pistol that weighs 46 oz can soak up a LOT of recoil.

A used 27 or 28 will fall in the $700-$1000 price range, still in your budget. A new 686 is under $900 (custom shop models run more), if you can find one.

When did they become scarce?

The modern N-frame version is the 627, which has a slab sided barrel (cool!) and an 8 round cylinder, at about $1200. The 686 is available in 6 or 7 round versions. The 7 round cylinder is actually stronger, since the notches fall between chambers.

Is there enough real concern to essentially condemn the even numbered guns (6 and 8). What incidents have there been of blowing out a cylinder with loads considered safe?

This is a good summary of conventional thinking on these guns.

 

[BigBill]

A model 27 or model 28 would serve you well.

 

[MTKTM]

Hey GruffGummi, whereabouts in Montana are you from? I'm in Kalispell. There's a shop here that always tries to keep a 686SSR on hand. I looked at them and looked at them over a period of several years, but have a number of 357s and didn't really "need" another one. But I finally broke down and bought one this past spring, and it has turned into my current favorite shooter. It lives on my nightstand and accompanies me every time I head to the range.

For about 20 years I shot IPSC matches. I was no major hot-shot, but enjoyed the matches and had a lot of fun doing it. Despite the fact that my first handgun was a reolver (Model 27 6.5") and I generally preferred revolvers to semi-autos, I got to where I mostly shot the latter during those 20 years, mostly various 1911 iterations. Then around '03-04 I started shooting more IDPA and noted that they had revolver classes and got interested in that, so began looking around for a good rugged shooter revolver, and ended up buying a 66-7 in '05. I used that for the next several years and put thousands of rounds through it. I still have the gun, but am not shooting in matches anymore. S&W discontinued the 66 in '05 with the -7 being the last of the breed, until this year when they reintroduced the model in the -8 version, which I've looked at and really like. It appears more heavy-duty than older 66s to me, and I have no doubt that it'd be a great all-around shooter. I also think the SSR would be and is. And I am happily back enjoying revolvers and the semi-autos spend most of their time living in the gun-safe.

Anyway, that's my experience with those two. As is clear from this thread, there are a number of other really good options. I just mentioned these because I happen to see them regularly available here locally, and sometimes it's about what you can find.

 

[old bear]

Gruff, welcome. I agree with what P&R Fan suggested, but I will also suggest the L Frame 686, which is the stainless steel version of the model 586.

The no longer produced K frame .357 Magnums are best used with ANY TYPE of 38 special ammo, and the rare dose of .357 Magnum ammo, which can be both somewhat hard on the revolver and even harder on the shooter.

Best of luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

[DR505]

I have a 686-3 that I like...it is accurate and has a great action. I like the slightly longer cylinder so I can use 180 grain bullets, for hunting, loaded longer than my Model 627-0 will accept. Stainless is better for me to take out hunting.

 

[GruffiGummi]

Based on all the excellent advice that I received in this thread, the consensus amongst its responders, and availability, I decided to take the plunge and today purchased a brand new, really nice looking model 686 with a 6-inch barrel.

I made the rounds of the LGSs I know of in my area (all four of them - we need more gun shops in Helena!), and only one had a model in the range of what was suggested: the 686. At first, I was tempted to wait a little bit and see if blued version would show up, but then I remembered all the advice about stainless guns being easier to clean (agreed!), and the fact that I always worry about ruining the bluing on my guns that are blued, and that no shops had any S&W revolver even close to any of the other models that were discussed here, and I decided that the 6-inch 686 would work splendidly. It'll look good next to its bigger brother, my S&W 500 with a 6.5 inch barrel. It's almost like the universe knew what I wanted, and it provided. Thanks, universe!

This gun is exactly what I was looking for, and after looking over the piece, I can see why everyone recommended the X86 models: it's quite solid, and looks like it can take almost anything in the .357/.38 caliber range. It appears that it was made this year, judging from the info on the fired shell that it came with. The exact model is 686-6, with the 6-shot cylinder. As soon as I can dig my digital camera out, I'll try to post some glamor shots of it, and I'm definitely taking it out shooting next week!

Thanks again, everyone, for the excellent advice that you gave me. Even though I now have a 686, I think that I will still keep an eye out for the other models mentioned here, and if I see one for a good price, I may have to pick it up. BTW, MTKTM, I'm located in Helena, in case you didn't already guess.

 

[rwsmith]

If you're thinking about big loads....

Don't even think about a 'K' frame if you want to shoot a lot of big loads. They ain't built for it.

'L' frame 586/686 (I prefer 686) or even a bigger 'N' frame.

And glad to have you aboard!

 

[emichael]

You can find a used Model 327 Performance Center R8 or TRR8 in the 900 dollar range. My R8 has a 5" barrel and a 8 shot cylinder and it is the only gun in my collection I will never part with. Even though I think the 586/686 models are amazing and will have another 586 by winter, the R8 just has a better feel and nothing is more accurate IMO.

 

[j a]

EXCELLENT choice

Congratulations the 686 is a wonderful gun. As a side note, rubber grips are your friend at the range but a set of wooden grips will really dress that 686 up.
We look forward to the pictures. If you would be so kind please post pictures of your .38 as well. We like pictures here. JA

 

[Stirling]

Choices can be very personal but I'd suggest the M28 and M27 N-frame S&Ws. There are threads on this forum that I'm sure will provide you great insights into these wheelguns. The K-frame M13 and M19 are great options too.