Advice needed on 686 overhaul

R

rondo

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
382
Reaction score
10
Recently picked up a 686-4 that needs some TLC. The frame is in great shape and the bore is shinny, however the cylinder has seen better days. Not sure if the cylinder is original to the gun, but the wear is disproportionate to the rest of the gun, so who knows. As it sits, the lockup & timing are good and it shoots just fine.

I'm thinking of sending it in to S&W to have a plus cylinder installed and possibly an action job done by the PC shop. Master Action Package? Ultimately I would like to have the red ramp milled off and a better (to me) sight installed, thinking the Mag-Na-Port C-More sight conversion or a gold bead.

That's about all I know. Not being familiar with such projects, I'm seeking advice. The goal is to make it a nice range gun, something to keep and enjoy.

So, what would you do?

Just got back from taking it for a test drive. Put some .357mag downrange without a hitch, as well as .38spl +P. It shoots fine, the trigger is OK but I want better. I left it dirty in the pictures below so the warts are more pronounced:

dirty686_01.jpg


dirty686_02.jpg


What would make such marks on the cylinder?

Thanks for looking, any advice much appreciated.
 
Register to hide this ad
I have two thoughts on your query. First I would get a fine scotch brite and polish the cylinder out. If you don't like the results you aren't out much. That's the advantage of stainless steel, it takes a lot to wear it out.

My second thought is that the revolver looks good to me. I think you would be better off to sell it and buy the gun you really want. If you do send it in you will never get your money back and the only thing you gained was a different sight.

Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Good thoughts...

I hear ya, but the gun I really want is a pre-lock 686+, and I've given up on finding one.

Figured I could convert this one into a plus, but after shooting it I found the sight picture to be less than optimal for my typical shooting conditions (outdoor range with covered firing line). The red ramp is okay I guess, might just need to get used to it.
 
I don't see anything wrong. The flash marks on the cylinder are perfectly normal. The easiest way to get rid of them is with one of the lead removal cloths made by Tipton and others.
 
I agree with the two posts above...try one of the lead removal cloths. they can do a great job and if you don't like results, its only $6 and you still have most of the cloth. An action job at a local smith might be an option, or you could put a bunch of rounds through it and smooth it out, and the Wolfe spring kits are about $18 and easy to install. I think I have also seen kits to change the color of the front insert if you wanted to go with black instead of the red. But if you decide to change guns, the pre-lock 686+ guns show up; I just sold a 5" Stocking Dealer Special a few months ago. Watch the classified here and Gun Broker.
 
Last edited:
Couple of things that are easy to fix.

One is the cylinder. As mentioned previously, a fine grade of scotchbrite will clean up the turn ring very quickly. It will also make it easy to remove those patches of lead deposits on the outside front of the cylinder, just don't use scotchbrite to clean the face of your cylinder. Either leave it powdered up or use lead away cleaning cloths on the face of the cylinder, scotchbrite is just too abrasive.

Second, as for the front sight, it should be pinned in place on your 686. Look very closely at the side of the sight boss about midpoint of the sight and you'll probably see a tiny pin. If it is pinned in place, there are a multitude of sights available from gold bead Patridge to fibre optics. IMO for an outdoor range, it's hard to find anything better than a fibre optic. However, fibre optics are nearly useless at an indoor range because there just isn't enough overhead lighting.

As for the 7 shot conversion, it's certainly doable. However, for a range gun, I would suggest that you look into having a moon clip conversion done on it. I have a moon clip 610 and they are a real treat to use in a range gun. I'll load up 2 boxes of ammo into clips at home and then I can spend my time at the range doing almost nothing but shooting, it only takes a second or two to reload with moon clips.

You can get either 6 or 7 shot moon clips for your 686 so the round count is up to you. However, one thing to consider is that IDPA limits the load in the revolver class to just 6 shots. If you ever want to try your hand at IDPA, you'll want a 6 round cylinder, 7 rounders require that you "index" the cylinder at each reload and that will cost you time.
 
custom work

I have had 3 S/W guns with custom work done. M620, 686+, and M60-10 and each one was a project that I enjoyed saving for, anticipating and planning. Lots of people say "you'll never get your money, and it aint worth it". To that I say if a gun was perfect out of the box, there would not be:
- YouTube - Fast Shoot
- Cylinder & Slide Inc
- Robar Premium Finishing & Firearms Home Page
- http://www.esmeralda.cc/
- World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS
- ...you get the point...

1. You wont get what you put into it when it you sell it <-- true, so dont sell it
2. You will learn what works and what is or isnt worth it for future guns
3. You will enjoy it a bit more due to pride and project accomplishment

The action job from P/C is about as good as a typical gunsmith will do with added benefit of a complete customer service guarantee. I would also recommend the brownells spring kit ( WILSON COMBAT : #178 S&W K,L,N FRAME SPRING KIT - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools )
That spring kit made just as much difference as the action job itself. Combine the 2 and you get a great feeling over-all trigger job. Great thing is you can try light-heavier springs and see what you like. If you cant tell I am a fan of custom work. Its your pistol, make it fit your style. Dont worry about selling it and making money off of it. After a few pistols being turned in, you begin to experiment yourself and find out that its not all that hard to do it yourself. <--- dont recommend it at the begining.
In other words...its your gun and your money. Make that thing as custom as your heart desires and your wallet allows.
 
Last edited:
For comparison,

I sent my 686-1, 8-3/8" sillohette (?) back to S&W for some work. I've owned it for a year and paid roughly $500 out the door, delivered via gunbroker. I thought I could use it as-is, but the more I shot it, I knew it could be better.

My yoke was beat to crap where the retaining/sideplate screw went. And it had around 0.010-0.012 endshake. It spit powder in my face every time I shot it. Like yours my action was only ok. I also wanted the muzzel crown recessed.

The quote I got read something like: replace yoke, custom action job, set B/C gap to 0.006" with minimal endshake, and cut muzzel crown. The price was roughly $225 including return shipping. It cost me $60 to ship it via FedEx to S&W.

Will I get my money back? Right now I don't care much. If it shoots like a rifle when I get it back, I won't care at all.

I've sent a 625 in 45 Colt and a 460XVR (that I bought new) back to S&W for excessive endshake after a couple of hundred 460's and a couple of thousand 45's. After double that amount of shooting, niether gun has developed any endshake. I'll bet whatever has stretched in the frame stops at some point.
 
Thanks all, I'm learning a lot. Gotta love this place! :D
 
"My 686 gets the same half moons on the end of the cylinder after firing. For me it's just powder accumulation. Hoppes #9 takes its right off."

+1 I simply lay Hoppe's on the cylinder with a tooth brush, let it soak for a while, then scrub it off. In fact, I am about to do just that, since I went to the range this morning. As for the turn ring, fuggetaboutit. All S&W revolvers get them, the sign of a working tool.

Cordially, Jack
 
I'm basically in the same position as you. Bought a priced right 2 1/2" 686-4 couple years ago with the idea of some changes(project gun) but it shoots so well and is mechanically so good I just can't bring myself to fix what ain't broke. Keep your gun as is and keep looking, the one you originally wanted will eventually turn up. Besides.....the more 686's the better!
 
The half-moon build up of lead and powder on the cylinder is due to the hole for the front screw of the sight. If the screw is a little short you get more build up, if it is flush you get less but if you shoot enough rounds you will get it eventually. As others have said it should clean off.
 
The half-moon area shown in the picture is more than just build-up, but under the build-up is a fairly deep indentation in the cylinder. The blackness is removed easily, but the indentations are too deep to buff out. Not sure how the indentations got there in the first place.

Will post picture of them soon...
 
The "blemish" you are concerned about does not negatively impact the performance of your fine revolver. That is what a revolver looks like when it is shot frequently and extensively.

You bought a revolver to shoot, not as a collectors piece. (far too many 686's on the market for them to be collectible) Use it for what it is intended, to be shot.

Take a look at the revolvers in this link. They are Jerry Miculek's guns, and it would be fair to say that they are shot quite a bit. Notice anything familiar???

http://www.bang-inc.com/store/index.php?main_page=page_3
 
Last edited:
Doh!

Well color me stupid. :o

Took my lead removing cloth and applied some elbow grease and what do you know - good as new! Can you tell I'm new to revolvers? I was convinced there were indentations, but no, it was just as you guys said.

It all makes sense now, under the front screw on the sight...

And yes, it's intended to shoot, and that's just what I'm gonna do.

Many thanks guys!
 
Glad you got the deposit off the cylinder easily. The 4 inch 686 was the best duty revolver I carried when I did mobile armed security patrols many years ago. It will do everything you need it to do and then some. It will also take any factory ammo (357 Magnum or 38 Special) all day long and ask for more. You have a fine gun there. Take care of it and it will take care of you.
 
Just wanted to thank you guys again for the valuable info and for not teasing me too much, left myself wide-open for some good ribbing here. This is my first S&W revolver, will not be my last. I'm very pleased to learn that this thing is in better shape that I thought when I bought it.

Putting my plans on hold till I get more familiar, but still would like a better trigger sooner than later. Really appreciate the sage advice, gonna spend my $ on ammo for now.

Cheers! :D
 
rondo said:
Just wanted to thank you guys again for the valuable info and for not teasing me too much, left myself wide-open for some good ribbing here. This is my first S&W revolver, will not be my last. I'm very pleased to learn that this thing is in better shape that I thought when I bought it.

Putting my plans on hold till I get more familiar, but still would like a better trigger sooner than later. Really appreciate the sage advice, gonna spend my $ on ammo for now.

Cheers! :D
Click to expand...

If you shoot it a lot (dry-fire counts, too), you will end up smoothing down a lot of the parts that are stoned/polished during an action job. Over time, the pull should get smoother. You won't notice it as much since it happens so slowly, but it'll definitely be there.
 
I recently purchased a 681 from GB. It was good mechanically, but needed a good cleaning. I took the cylinder and grips off and polished it with Mother's Mag Polish. Removed the side plate and gave it a shot of Rem Oil. With new grips, it looks new and shoots like a dream. I would keep your 686 the way it is and enjoy. I also have a 686 with a six inch barrel which has had work done on the trigger. Both get those half moon marks on the cylinder, but clean right off with Hoppes and a white 3M pad. I leave the face of the cylinder alone.
 
Consider getting Miculek's video on doing an action job, and doing it yourself. Also, as others have noted, the spring kit (sold by Wolff) makes a world of difference. I did an action job on my 686 and the double action is silky smooth, and the single action breaks at 2 pounds.

As far as cleaning the stainless, KG Coating's KG-2 (which is marketed as a copper remover) removes those deposits from the cylinder faster than you can imagine. Don't use it on a blued gun, though, as it's actually a polish.
 
I am looking forward to qualifying with my new-old 686-2 4" for IDPA Stock Service Revolver. These tips will help me keep it looking minty. Thanks.
 
"Second, as for the front sight, it should be pinned in place on your 686."

On this version of the 686, the barrel, ramp and sight blade are all one piece and to replace the blade, it would have to be milled off, a pocket milled in the ramp and a new blade installed & pinned in.

Bruce
 
Hey Rondo, I'm rollin' with you on this one. I looked for a NO lock 2 1/2'' 686+ for a long time. Finally, I bought a snubby 686 no dash. It hadn't been in for the recall--no ''M'' stamp. I called S&W and they sent me a shipping label. I sent it off today for the recall work, AND to have a 7 shot cylinder fitted. Now I'll have just what I wanted--a snubby 7 shooter with no IL or MIM parts @ a bargain price since S&W is paying the shipping both ways. Life is short Rondo. Build the gun that you want and enjoy shootin' the snot outta it.....
 
Last edited:
The powder marks on your cylinder are from gasses being diverted downward from the top frame strap above the forcing cone. This is perfectly normal on any revolver. It is not so noticeable on blued cylinders and usually gets wiped off in normal cleaning with out you noticing it. The hole for the front sight screw might give it a unique pattern.
 
Carried a 686 for 20 years then sold it........Dad said one time that I didn't make good decisions........Sold to a friend. Wonder if I can get it back ????????????? Great gun to have protect you.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
"New" 686 at last...
2
Replies
48
Views
7K
sheldon wade
sheldon wade
J
S&W 686 -- Which Barrel?
2
Replies
55
Views
55K
Joe Hohmann
J
Dave Nash
Origins of the Model 14 Full Lug & An Introduction to the SWCA
Replies
29
Views
34K
Moo Moo
Moo Moo
BenR
Range report: 627 Performance Center
2
Replies
34
Views
16K
lee_radio
lee_radio
corpulent
Help me pick a wheelgun
2
Replies
34
Views
5K
one eye joe
one eye joe

Latest posts

Back
Top