Any J frame shooting tips?

[nanney1]

You didn't mention how old your revolver is, or how much it's been fired.
I second the dry-fire suggestions. My 442 trigger has smoothed out over a period of time. My girlfriend has a 642 that only has around 100 through it. The difference is night and day.

442 was purchased new on Dec. 30, so it's not even a month old. First range trip was 50 rounds of Remington UMC 125 grain fmj and 15 rounds of Hornady Critical Defense +P 110 grain FTX.

2nd range trip yesterday was 50 rounds of Remington 130 grain fmj and 5 rounds of the Hornady +P. So, only 120 rounds total. And probably an equal number of dry fires.

 

[nanney1]

Get some proper grips like these. Make all the difference. I have shot high score with the 640-1 at the top in carry qualification. I will not shoot a J frame without a good rubber grip. Makes no appreciable difference in concealment. I prefer to carry a k snub, but always have that 642 near. I also shoot it sparingly. Just a few times a year. Trying to shoot one with an exposed backstrap is not my idea of fun, but neither is hitting my head with a hammer.

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What type of grips are those? Particularly, the bottom gun pictured.

 

[Sol-Invictus]

They are smiths j frame combat grips available on the Smith and Wesson site.

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[rwsmith]

It is REAL easy....

I was sick of the 442 after the range session today, but after reading all the replies, I wish I could shoot it again tonight. Thanks for the tips.

It's really easy to get discouraged shooting a snub, especially a J frame. But learning and practice turns it into a valuable skill. I've got a 6" 686 that makes me look GREAT from when I first got it. HONING that skill though, still takes learning and practice.

 

[S&W Rover]

They are smiths j frame combat grips available on the Smith and Wesson site.

I've purchased the three-finger Smith and Wesson factory rubber grips, as shown in the bottom of the picture, the factory store web page. They were under $30. However, right now (26 Jan 18) they are not on the S&W web site store... Rubber Grips - Smith & Wesson

They come stock on several J frame models, particularly the 640's. They work well for me. I like them better than the Hogue rubber grips because they are a bit smaller and thinner.

But I think you'd have to call S&W to ask for them special order, because they do not appear to be available. Hopefully, they will be back in the web store soon.

 

[gwpercle]

Practice, practice, practice.

Dry fire, dry fire, dry fire.

Rinse, and repeat.

It takes years of practice...Jerry Miculek didn't get where he's at in two or three range trips...decades of hard practice made him. And he has some God given abilities some of us will never have.
Put your dues in and don't think buying a special gizmo will magically make you a crack shot...it wont.
Gary

 

[Jim NNN]

FWIW, my view: I don't know how much shooting experience the OP has prior to the purchase of the J frame. I certainly don't want to be presumptuous, but I should say, that for shooting handguns in general, it can often take starting shooters hundreds or even thousands of rounds before they stop cringing before shots in anticipation of the recoil and associated discomfort. This is especially true of small carry guns chambered in powerful cartridges, like the alloy J frame in .38 Special.

I'm guessing it took me thousands of rounds before the flinching impulse was more or less under control. So the training is as much psychological as it is muscle memory, at least in that sense.

If this is the case with the OP, then check if the ammo is +P. That might be a good place to start. Forego the +P for a while and use some standard ammo, both for practice and carry. Hornady makes a "Custom" non+P ammo that has less recoil and pressure, but still has an expanding SD projectile.

I also like the suggestion of bigger/better grips, though I have no experience with them on the J frame. Also, focus on the front sight when shooting.

 

[misswired]

Tried the crossover thumb grip which solved the cylinder release bite...but still suck wind shooting. Will order some new grips and march onward. All 638 shots were SA....DA aren't even on target.
The FIRM grip also helped....thanks for the tips!

 

[MetalMan]

That's still pretty darn good shooting with an airweight at 39 feet!

 

[sdb321]

I don't have a light-weight "J" frame, but I shoot a stout .357 load in my 640 Pro. I can shoot it all day with the Pachmayr Decelerator grips.

 

[haywood]

When I first started to practice with a Snub I aimed accross the room at a doorknob. (Empty Gun) I then dry fired concentrating on the front sight staying centered on the boorknob. This helped me learn trigger control and to keep my sights on target. I was also told to follow through and not realeas the trigger or move the sight until after the shot.

 

[misswired]

Bout the same with the gen 3 autos...

 

[edkato]

The 442 is awesome. Snap Caps and range time when you can get there will help. An all steel J for practice really helps too. Enjoy.

 

[Mister X]

Don't make it more complicated than it needs to be.

https://www.backwoodshome.com/how-to-shoot-a-handgun-accurately/

[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=li0rGtXh23I[/ame]

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

Get a set of 20.00 Ergo rubber grips. They look weird but they make a jframe a lot easier to shoot. They were the last set of grip that I bought for my jframe.

 

[Freedomfirst]

My first question is why are you figuring on shooting anything more than 5 yards away with a small snub ? I carry a S&W 640 in a small pocket holster loaded with 5 Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel +P rounds. It is not meant to get into a prolonged gunfight. Since I may have to go to court to defend my decision to shoot someone, ideally I want gun powder on the bad guy's shirt, meaning he would have been extremely close to me when I shot him in self defense.

 

[Backlighting]

Tried the crossover thumb grip which solved the cylinder release bite...but still suck wind shooting. Will order some new grips and march onward. All 638 shots were SA....DA aren't even on target.
The FIRM grip also helped....thanks for the tips!

How far out were those targets?

 

[les_garten]

When I first started to practice with a Snub I aimed accross the room at a doorknob. (Empty Gun) I then dry fired concentrating on the front sight staying centered on the boorknob. This helped me learn trigger control and to keep my sights on target. I was also told to follow through and not realeas the trigger or move the sight until after the shot.

That's exactly what I did. I used Laser grips to help me watch.

I also recommend a good trigger job to lower the Heavy stock pull from around 14 pounds down to about 8 and smoothing it out a lot. I used Jerrys Video and did my trigger job and dry fired a thousand times or so.

Now a question for you folks, how do you keep the trigger guard from banging the snot out of your Strong hand middle finger? That's what kills me.

 

[Gamecock]

Forget the +P stuff. Stick with the Remington 130gr FMJ load until you are more proficient.

 

[misswired]

13 big steps/39 ft.

13 old steps /30 ft.

Adjusted accordingly.

 

[Gamecock]

Is the problem accuracy or precision?

I.e., are the shots grouping in one area, just not near the point of aim, or are they splattered all around the target?

How are you pulling trigger? One long pull, or are you stacking it to simulate single action pull?

 

[chiefbg]

When instructing new officers on the range, I drill into them to "Watch the front sight". Your eyes con only focus on one object at a time, so concentrate on the front sight. Where it goes, so goes the bullet, regardless of what you are shooting.

 

[Chubbo]

J Frame target shooting

I pretty much stink at shooting my 442. Through two range trips, I've put 120 rounds through it. I guess you can say at around 5 yards I can hit center mass, but only if you count anywhere from the shoulders to the lower abdomen and anywhere in between. Usually high and low.

After my first trip, I realized it may have something to do with hand placement. I was using a auto pistol style grip last time. Today, I tried what I saw demonstrated here with Jerry Miculek:
MICULEK2

About 3/4 down the page, he shows his grip on a 642. I tried this today but got some buzz stinging on the top thumb. I'm a righty, so it was my left thumb getting zinged. Tried stabilizing with my left index on the front of the trigger guard, but that wasn't comfortable either. Regardless of what I tried, I was still off from where I was aiming.

Really, I should start shooting this gun at 3 yards before even trying at 5 yards again.

nanney1:
First, you should decide whether you want to shoot in Bullseye, or bench rest competition. Then you might want to try a shoulder stock, or a Ransom rest, combined with a good quality, 20X fixed power, Target Scope, mounted, in a suitable mount. Try using factory loaded Bullseye quality, Wadcutter Amunition, at distance of, no further than 10 yards, with no cross winds. This all should be proceeded by lots of trigger finger control practice. If followed closely, this should point out the target shooting qualities of your S&W J frame revolver nicely.

 

[catleman]

Grip

Try a good tight grip on your gun with both hands. Catleman.

 

[TonyR]

I've been shooting J's forever. I didnt read every thread response so forgive me it I'm repeating what someone else may have said. But here it is : Have an action job done by a pro your goal is smooth.
Geta laser grip and some snap caps.
When you can dry fire that revolver keeping the laser on target repeatedly. You will be able to shoot small groups. Its all about sight allingment and trigger control. Perfect practice makes perfect. Work hard and good luck.

 

[roundels]

If all of this is for naught, have someone else shoot the gun. If they do well, it's you. If not, it might be the gun. Every maker puts out lemons and S&W is no exception. I once had a gorgeous 3 1/2" Model 27 that
I finally parted with after finding it to be to most inaccurate revolver I've ever shot.

 

[mmesa005]

I added an Apex Tactical spring kit to my 637.

Installed Apex Tactical "Duty/Carry" spring kit in J Frame

 

[the perfesser]

Now a question for you folks, how do you keep the trigger guard from banging the snot out of your Strong hand middle finger? That's what kills me.[/QUOTE]

Hogue Monogrips eliminate the gap where your strong hand middle finger would otherwise be. Hence no opportunity for it to be banged. Delta grips likewise.

 

[RGVshooter]

Maybe I'm doing it wrong but my way of getting better at shooting my 642 is by setting up a a IDPA cardboard target at our outdoor range and standing more or less 5 yards away and drawing from my carry holster (Bianchi lightnin' 55 OWB) and double tapping into the A zone. reholster, and drawing again, double tapping it. About 100-150 rounds a week.

IMHO, If you don't have Callus's on your upper middle finger and the top of your thumb of your shooting hand then you're not shooting enough.

 

[dr. mordo]

I didn't read the whole thread, but everything you need to know is here. I'm going to try to restate the top tips succinctly.

OP, you don't state in your post how much experience you have with DA shooting, but learning that skill is the first step and is critical. Dry fire is absolutely the key, and if you don't shoot DA well already, is probably 95% of your problem.

When I first started to practice with a Snub I aimed accross the room at a doorknob. (Empty Gun) I then dry fired concentrating on the front sight staying centered on the boorknob. This helped me learn trigger control and to keep my sights on target. I was also told to follow through and not realeas the trigger or move the sight until after the shot.

Exactly this. Dry fire is good for your hand strength and experimenting while closely watching the front sight can help you find a more stable grip. It's also good for the gun and helps smooth out trigger surfaces and reduce friction.

Grip the gun tightly with your right hand, but not so tight your trigger finger is can't move freely. Use the left hand to squeeze the **** out of it (I use the Miculek thumb over grip, myself, but find what works for you). Get your right hand as high up on the grip as you can. If you do this correctly, the barrel of the gun will barely move as you dry fire the trigger. Start with a very, very slow trigger stroke, then work up your speed gradually.

The grip's backstrap should rest on the meat between your thumb and forefinger, not on the bone at the base of your thumb. To achieve this you have to twist your hand a bit, and it's likely different from what you are used to. It takes practice to get used to it.

It's still gonna hurt, but once you get better the bullets will hit the target at least.