When I first started to practice with a Snub I aimed accross the room at a doorknob. (Empty Gun) I then dry fired concentrating on the front sight staying centered on the boorknob. This helped me learn trigger control and to keep my sights on target. I was also told to follow through and not realeas the trigger or move the sight until after the shot.
Any J frame shooting tips?
- Thread starter nanney1
- Start date
misswired
Absent Comrade
edkato
Member
The 442 is awesome. Snap Caps and range time when you can get there will help. An all steel J for practice really helps too. Enjoy.
Don't make it more complicated than it needs to be.
https://www.backwoodshome.com/how-to-shoot-a-handgun-accurately/
[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=li0rGtXh23I[/ame]
https://www.backwoodshome.com/how-to-shoot-a-handgun-accurately/
[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=li0rGtXh23I[/ame]
Baltimoreed11754
Member
Freedomfirst
Member
My first question is why are you figuring on shooting anything more than 5 yards away with a small snub ? I carry a S&W 640 in a small pocket holster loaded with 5 Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel +P rounds. It is not meant to get into a prolonged gunfight. Since I may have to go to court to defend my decision to shoot someone, ideally I want gun powder on the bad guy's shirt, meaning he would have been extremely close to me when I shot him in self defense.
Backlighting
Member
How far out were those targets?
les_garten
Member
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That's exactly what I did. I used Laser grips to help me watch.
I also recommend a good trigger job to lower the Heavy stock pull from around 14 pounds down to about 8 and smoothing it out a lot. I used Jerrys Video and did my trigger job and dry fired a thousand times or so.
Now a question for you folks, how do you keep the trigger guard from banging the snot out of your Strong hand middle finger? That's what kills me.
misswired
Absent Comrade
13 big steps/39 ft.
13 old steps /30 ft.
Adjusted accordingly.
13 old steps /30 ft.
Adjusted accordingly.
Is the problem accuracy or precision?
I.e., are the shots grouping in one area, just not near the point of aim, or are they splattered all around the target?
How are you pulling trigger? One long pull, or are you stacking it to simulate single action pull?
I.e., are the shots grouping in one area, just not near the point of aim, or are they splattered all around the target?
How are you pulling trigger? One long pull, or are you stacking it to simulate single action pull?
chiefbg
Member
When instructing new officers on the range, I drill into them to "Watch the front sight". Your eyes con only focus on one object at a time, so concentrate on the front sight. Where it goes, so goes the bullet, regardless of what you are shooting.
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Chubbo
Member
J Frame target shooting
nanney1:
First, you should decide whether you want to shoot in Bullseye, or bench rest competition. Then you might want to try a shoulder stock, or a Ransom rest, combined with a good quality, 20X fixed power, Target Scope, mounted, in a suitable mount. Try using factory loaded Bullseye quality, Wadcutter Amunition, at distance of, no further than 10 yards, with no cross winds. This all should be proceeded by lots of trigger finger control practice. If followed closely, this should point out the target shooting qualities of your S&W J frame revolver nicely.
nanney1:
First, you should decide whether you want to shoot in Bullseye, or bench rest competition. Then you might want to try a shoulder stock, or a Ransom rest, combined with a good quality, 20X fixed power, Target Scope, mounted, in a suitable mount. Try using factory loaded Bullseye quality, Wadcutter Amunition, at distance of, no further than 10 yards, with no cross winds. This all should be proceeded by lots of trigger finger control practice. If followed closely, this should point out the target shooting qualities of your S&W J frame revolver nicely.
catleman
Member
Grip
Try a good tight grip on your gun with both hands. Catleman.
Try a good tight grip on your gun with both hands. Catleman.
TonyR
Member
I've been shooting J's forever. I didnt read every thread response so forgive me it I'm repeating what someone else may have said. But here it is : Have an action job done by a pro your goal is smooth.
Geta laser grip and some snap caps.
When you can dry fire that revolver keeping the laser on target repeatedly. You will be able to shoot small groups. Its all about sight allingment and trigger control. Perfect practice makes perfect. Work hard and good luck.
Geta laser grip and some snap caps.
When you can dry fire that revolver keeping the laser on target repeatedly. You will be able to shoot small groups. Its all about sight allingment and trigger control. Perfect practice makes perfect. Work hard and good luck.
roundels
Member
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If all of this is for naught, have someone else shoot the gun. If they do well, it's you. If not, it might be the gun. Every maker puts out lemons and S&W is no exception. I once had a gorgeous 3 1/2" Model 27 that
I finally parted with after finding it to be to most inaccurate revolver I've ever shot.
I finally parted with after finding it to be to most inaccurate revolver I've ever shot.
mmesa005
Member
I added an Apex Tactical spring kit to my 637.
Installed Apex Tactical "Duty/Carry" spring kit in J Frame
Installed Apex Tactical "Duty/Carry" spring kit in J Frame
the perfesser
Member
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- Jul 3, 2011
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Now a question for you folks, how do you keep the trigger guard from banging the snot out of your Strong hand middle finger? That's what kills me.[/QUOTE]
Hogue Monogrips eliminate the gap where your strong hand middle finger would otherwise be. Hence no opportunity for it to be banged. Delta grips likewise.
Hogue Monogrips eliminate the gap where your strong hand middle finger would otherwise be. Hence no opportunity for it to be banged. Delta grips likewise.
RGVshooter
Member
Maybe I'm doing it wrong but my way of getting better at shooting my 642 is by setting up a a IDPA cardboard target at our outdoor range and standing more or less 5 yards away and drawing from my carry holster (Bianchi lightnin' 55 OWB) and double tapping into the A zone. reholster, and drawing again, double tapping it. About 100-150 rounds a week.
IMHO, If you don't have Callus's on your upper middle finger and the top of your thumb of your shooting hand then you're not shooting enough.
IMHO, If you don't have Callus's on your upper middle finger and the top of your thumb of your shooting hand then you're not shooting enough.
I didn't read the whole thread, but everything you need to know is here. I'm going to try to restate the top tips succinctly.
OP, you don't state in your post how much experience you have with DA shooting, but learning that skill is the first step and is critical. Dry fire is absolutely the key, and if you don't shoot DA well already, is probably 95% of your problem.
Exactly this. Dry fire is good for your hand strength and experimenting while closely watching the front sight can help you find a more stable grip. It's also good for the gun and helps smooth out trigger surfaces and reduce friction.
Grip the gun tightly with your right hand, but not so tight your trigger finger is can't move freely. Use the left hand to squeeze the **** out of it (I use the Miculek thumb over grip, myself, but find what works for you). Get your right hand as high up on the grip as you can. If you do this correctly, the barrel of the gun will barely move as you dry fire the trigger. Start with a very, very slow trigger stroke, then work up your speed gradually.
The grip's backstrap should rest on the meat between your thumb and forefinger, not on the bone at the base of your thumb. To achieve this you have to twist your hand a bit, and it's likely different from what you are used to. It takes practice to get used to it.
It's still gonna hurt, but once you get better the bullets will hit the target at least.
OP, you don't state in your post how much experience you have with DA shooting, but learning that skill is the first step and is critical. Dry fire is absolutely the key, and if you don't shoot DA well already, is probably 95% of your problem.
Exactly this. Dry fire is good for your hand strength and experimenting while closely watching the front sight can help you find a more stable grip. It's also good for the gun and helps smooth out trigger surfaces and reduce friction.
Grip the gun tightly with your right hand, but not so tight your trigger finger is can't move freely. Use the left hand to squeeze the **** out of it (I use the Miculek thumb over grip, myself, but find what works for you). Get your right hand as high up on the grip as you can. If you do this correctly, the barrel of the gun will barely move as you dry fire the trigger. Start with a very, very slow trigger stroke, then work up your speed gradually.
The grip's backstrap should rest on the meat between your thumb and forefinger, not on the bone at the base of your thumb. To achieve this you have to twist your hand a bit, and it's likely different from what you are used to. It takes practice to get used to it.
It's still gonna hurt, but once you get better the bullets will hit the target at least.
