Anyone have their revolver reblued at the S&W factory lately?

I sent S&W my 15-4 back in March before I found out they changed their bluing process. When I received the letter with the cost I decided to go with the bright polish in hopes that I will be happy with the end result.

I called last week and it is supposedly being processed. Waiting each day now to see the charge come through my bank.
 
I sent S&W my 15-4 back in March before I found out they changed their bluing process. When I received the letter with the cost I decided to go with the bright polish in hopes that I will be happy with the end result.

I called last week and it is supposedly being processed. Waiting each day now to see the charge come through my bank.
It's going to be a while, have patience and just wait.
 
Do not use Hoppes #9 or any ammonia product on guns blued with the new S&W process. It will turn plum color.
IMO this should be completely unacceptable! Both products are commonly used for gun cleaning, and they need to find a consumer-friendly solution for the bluing process. Don't 3rd party gunsmiths do (better) bluing jobs all the time without the limitation of not being able to use Hoppe's #9 or ammonia?
 
IMO this should be completely unacceptable! Both products are commonly used for gun cleaning, and they need to find a consumer-friendly solution for the bluing process. Don't 3rd party gunsmiths do (better) bluing jobs all the time without the limitation of not being able to use Hoppe's #9 or ammonia?
I agree. A gun that can't be cleaned using Hoppes #9 is not acceptable. Not to mention most people don't even know that Hoppes has ammonia. Most start up gun cleaning kits in the sporting goods stores have Hoppes #9. The cleaning kit that I was issued in the police academy was a Hoppes #9 kit.
 
S&W has a 19-3 and I'm waiting for my number to come up. It's really an experiment on my part to see how they do. They will give me their evaluation and the cost of the work for my approval. Stay tuned and I will report. They have two basic options, standard blue or high polish.
Did you ever get a price from S&W?
 
I sent my 15-3 in earlier this year. While it was still waiting its turn I learned here that they changed their process. Not sure how the standard polish and bluing would look I decided to upgrade to the high polish in hopes I would be happy.

I got it back last month and to me I can see that it is "blacker" than my 586 but with the high polish I am quite happy.

Yeah I wish it had the same look as the day I bought it NIB. But as awful as it looked after the police recovered it I'm glad she is nice and shiny again.
 
A couple of years ago, I bought a new Taurus Model 82 38 spl that came with an ugly matte black finish that is not very durable. I have had all of the visible parts refinished in a glossy black Cerakote. The gunsmith also grooved the front sight ramp and filled it with red cerakote.

While it is not as pretty and glossy as an original blued Smith& Wesson, I am very satisfied with the result and now have a very durable finish to boot.

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I bought a 586 that needed a lot of care. I reworked the action and sent it to S&W for a refinish. When it came back, I could not believe how nice it looked. They did a fantastic job. It was done several years ago.
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I think they call this the brushed blue? Anyway, I wanted it nickled which they don't do anymore, and the CR told me their current high polish will not match the exquisite late-60's polish, so I picked the brushed. Looks OK.
This M10 BTW came out of Puerto Rico. Came to me with a set of aftermarket grips that wouldn't tighten. I swapped them for the J Scotts and T-grip. Had the typical late '70's bizarre combination of excellent action and a B/C gap you could slide a butter knife blade thru. They set the barrel back and fixed that, also.
 

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Fords in Clearwater Florida did this (not a Smith) back in 2014.

Cimarron was using Fords for both Polish Blue & Nickle when I bought this NIB
Rock Island. This photo was taken in April '25'
 

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Ballistol
I have a bit of trouble seeing why Hoppes would cause color change to the current blue process. At any rate, Ballistol apparently also includes ammonium oleate which was cited above as being the culprit in the color change. So I do not see how it would be any safer than Hoppes IF ammonia causes the color change.
Anyway, I did a little test this spring and was, frankly, really disappointed in the performance of Ballistol at preventing rust.
See attached.
(The "EVR" solvents are just that, solvents only. They are amyl acetate-based nitro solvents of my own concoction. Not for rust/corrosion protection, obviously. I'm working on a combination solvent/corrosion inhibiter).
 

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from their own home page

IS BALLISTOL SAFE ON NICKEL/CHROME/GOLD LEAF?
Yes! Ballistol is safe on all metals when used as directed. There is the potential with any creeping oil to "lift" metals plated by electrolysis, but our product is simply not capable of deteriorating these metals. We recommend when using Ballistol on electro-plated metals (gold leaf, nickel, chrome, etc.) to wipe off any excess Ballistol after cleaning. Ballistol should not be used on these surfaces if they are scratched or damaged.


I have no dog in the fight.
 
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