Anyone Keep Track of Number of Times Reloaded?

kbm6893

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I started reloading about 18 months ago. 9MM and .38 Special. Load very middle of the road. Just punching paper and having fun.

I started with brass I knew was factory fired once. I only shot factory for years and have been saving the brass in case I started reloading.

But I have loaded almost all of my 9MM brass and 70% of my .38. Unlike most people, I don't reload to shoot a whole lot more, so I have way more loaded rounds than I do fired brass.

But I don't want to stop reloading until I shoot up more of my finished rounds, especially with winter coming and shooting opportunities even less. And I don't want to seperate the finished rounds. As it is now, I dump them into an ammo can for each caliber. Can labeled of course with recipe.

So should I just tumble and prep the once reloaded brass and just add them to the can, or keep them separate? Should I just shoot until
A case splits and then chuck them or continue to keep track of their times being reloaded?

I have shot probably 400 rounds of my reloaded 9MM and at least that of the .38. The brass is sitting in a seperate bucket and marked as once fired reloads.
 
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KEEPING TRACK--

Well I guess you could say I do-- the reloading labels have a spot for that so it is easy-- After 10 reloading of the brass I get somewhat lazy. things happen, splits, etc. just the way it goes. :)
 
I've got 4 boxes of brass for reloading my 500, 50 cases each, loaded for TP plus one "lot" of store bought rounds consisting of about 47 cases loaded with 350gr Hornady XTP bullets for hunting. I keep records of the TP ammo numbered box 1 thru 4 and when I load my range blocks the box number is logged with the range block number in my records..

I do this to track consumable usage but mainly for the amount of range cycles for the casings just like yer asking about!! I'm not running a hot load in my 500 but I am interested in how many cycles I can get before signs of case failure....

And if anyone is wondering what brand of range block I'm using, it's a home made brand that was R&D'd right here in my Man Shed!!! :D Here's some pic's and each block holds 50 rounds!!
 

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Pistol gets loaded till it splits. You should get a lot reloads if your not loading hot and the gun your using does not beat up the brass. I had 700-1000 9mm cases that have been loaded 35-50 times before I recycled it.
 
revolver & rifle brass I track number of reloads but semi-auto pistol brass I dont unless I find all the cases from factory brass then I might bother to note that as once fired but after that dont bother
 
In 1975, after the 10th reload on new 357 mag brass with a max load I quit keeping track.

I keep reloading brass until the bullet won't stay in case after crimping. I get all the X's and 10's out of my brass!
 
Nah, I'm not shooting precision matches with money on the line, just plinking for fun and practice, so I reload and shoot my brass 'til it fails.
 
I always log my rifle brass trimmed, reamed and loaded/fired.

Pistol/revolver...... times loaded with full loads.
First sign of crack or fail they go to target loads .......and times loaded.

My new C9 (9mm) has had 504 loads through it and I have boxes of GI, factory and SD cases on hand with number of times fired.

2x, 3x, 5x etc.
 
Regular pistol brass I don't bother with any tracking. I've a batch of 45acp mixed brass that I've been shooting for about 15 years. If one cracks at the case mouth in the scrap bucket. Hunting loads get prepped almost like match brass only do this in 50 case lots. Couple rifles I tracK how many rounds down the tube. Frank
 
Yes.
Keeping track of 44 Special is probably unnecessary but anything more powerful might be helpful.
 

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My 22-250 brass for sure. Not really keeping track of all my pistol and revolver brass, but I have been keeping track of a 100 piece sample of each caliber I shoot. I just wanted to see if there are any glaring differences between the calibers. Nerd.
 
I don't track total reloads per case. I've got brass from the 70's I'm still using. Once they split, or the primer pocket gets too loose, I (reluctantly) trash them.

I do keep all my brass, that's in rotation, prepped & ready to be primed & flared, once I know what load I'm going to use in them. I keep about 100 cases each in marked quart freezer bags.

To try & get even usage on my brass, inside each bag is half an index card, numbered (1, 2, 3, 4...). Once I've removed all the brass in #1, I move that card back to #2's bag & #2 back to #3's, & so on, with the last numbered index card going in the now empty bag. The next batch of fired & prepped brass goes in that bag.

.
 
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Thanks. As a new reloader I guess I'm still a bit paranoid. But when you say "until it splits", could there be any damage to the gun depending on the split? I weigh every charge and triple check before the powder goes in and I have a whole system with different colored blocks on different sides of the bench to ensure I am not double charging a case. I check the cases to make sure none are overcharged before I seat a bullet too, so I'm not worried about an overcharge harming the gun, but when a case splits, the pressure in contained by the chamber and no harm to gun or shooter, right?
 
No. I do not count # of times loaded. Dirty handgun brass gets thrown in to the dirty bucket.
When I clean it, it moves to the clean brass bucket. I inspect it before and during the reloading process.
I use plastic Kitty Litter buckets for pistol brass storage ( about 5 gallon size).
Rifle brass I keep a note with it , as to which operation I'm at with it,, i.e.. cleaned ,, sized ,, trimmed ,, etc. I inspect it during each operation.
 
Thanks. As a new reloader I guess I'm still a bit paranoid. But when you say "until it splits", could there be any damage to the gun depending on the split? I weigh every charge and triple check before the powder goes in and I have a whole system with different colored blocks on different sides of the bench to ensure I am not double charging a case. I check the cases to make sure none are overcharged before I seat a bullet too, so I'm not worried about an overcharge harming the gun, but when a case splits, the pressure in contained by the chamber and no harm to gun or shooter, right?
Case splits due to metal fatigue shouldn't cause a problem in a modern handgun.
At about 10% of the surplus 7.62X54R ammo splits the case when I shoot it from my Moisin Nagant 91/30. The chamber is ridiculously oversize and steel only stretches so much. Nothing bad happens as far as the shooter is concerned.

I don't count cycles as "moderate" loads don't cause much wear and tear on the brass.
 
I reload .38, 9mm, .40, 45ACP, & 45 Colt. I will keep using brass unless there is a problem with a case. Do not load crazy heavy loads for anything. I rarely have to discard any cases. I use my own used brass & any that I find at the range. 1 day, I picked up 150 .357 mag cases. Appeared to be once fired. The boxes for them were left also. Bob
 
But when you say "until it splits", could there be any damage to the gun depending on the split?

I have never seen a chamber damaged by an ordinary mouth split, even ones that sent way down the case. Failure due to overloads or weak cases at the head are a different matter.

I bought a large quantity of Federal nickel plated .38 and reload them until they split. When I take the brass out of the tumbler, I shake it and listen for the changed tone that split .38 cases make, and check for the splits.
 
In 1975, after the 10th reload on new 357 mag brass with a max load I quit keeping track.

I keep reloading brass until the bullet won't stay in case after crimping. I get all the X's and 10's out of my brass!

Or primer. When seating primers, if the primer offer little to no force, I mark that case so I don't pick it up or pick it up & toss it.
 
All my new brass both rifle and hand gun go's into its own MTM type box and stays there for it's serviceable life. The data card in the box has case fired number on it. The only real reason is that I tend to use heavy for caliber bullets loaded stoutly and that requires a heavy profile crimp. After four firings with the stout loads that brass is now used for more sedate loads. After they start showing signs of "getting old" they then go into the plinking brass box.
 
Keeping good records and segregating brass by maker and usage is always a smart thing to do. I've been loading close to fifty years and keeping records on loads and components since the mid seventies. When I was competing I tracked brass life by head stamp and gun since some chambers are a bit oversized and work the brass much more. Some brands of brass have a bit more copper and less zinc in the alloy and I've found split less at mouth but then quite often blow out primer pockets faster.

If you shoot one load and one head stamp then it's not necessary. Hotter loads both rifle and handgun should be watched and unless you batch or segregate your brass you'll never know what to expect. After doing this so many years I can pretty much tell when a lot of brass is ready to retire and since I keep different batches in seperate containers it's simple to mark how many loads they've had. As a rule if you push the pressure much you'll find primer pockets getting slack before necks split. So yes if you're really serious about reloading and feel it's important to know if you're brass is up to 40-55,000 # pressure and think consistent crimps and ignition yield better performance the by all means keep records. I wouldn't let convenience even through the door of my reloading room

Regards
 
I don't know the count, but I have some 44 mag and 357 brass that the primer pockets are so loose the primers will back out under recoil. Not good.
 
Metalic cases are the weakest link in the chain..........
which is a good thing and is one of the "Safety vales" in the loading system.

A normal to full load should not hurt any weapon in good shape.

I also agree with the loose or sloppy primer holes but 95% of these come with my rifle cases and only a few with the small brass.
I too, mark with a felt pen to let me know that they are on their last outing unless used as a dummy load, later.
 
What a Great Idea!

I've got 4 boxes of brass for reloading my ...

And if anyone is wondering what brand of range block I'm using, it's a home made brand that was R&D'd right here in my Man Shed!!! :D Here's some pic's and each block holds 50 rounds!!

My compliments! What a great idea and execution of same. I am going to copy your loading/storage block. And then I will brag to my friends, "Look what I invented!" :-) ................
 
Thanks. As a new reloader I guess I'm still a bit paranoid. But when you say "until it splits", could there be any damage to the gun depending on the split? I weigh every charge and triple check before the powder goes in and I have a whole system with different colored blocks on different sides of the bench to ensure I am not double charging a case. I check the cases to make sure none are overcharged before I seat a bullet too, so I'm not worried about an overcharge harming the gun, but when a case splits, the pressure in contained by the chamber and no harm to gun or shooter, right?

I'm sure I've had some split cases slip thru and not even known it. The only issue I've encountered (on a couple of occasions) when split cases were loaded in a revolver (.357 mag) was the bullet of split round backing out enough during recoil to lock up the cylinder and even prevent opening the cylinder. I don't use my reloads for carry or defense so no harm, but it can be tricky to tap the bullet back in with a closed cylinder.
 
My compliments! What a great idea and execution of same. I am going to copy your loading/storage block. And then I will brag to my friends, "Look what I invented!" :-) ................

After finding the ammo cans at Sam's Club, they came new 1 large and one small, I said to myself that there's GOTTA be a range block that fits 50, 500 S&W Mag rounds into one of these size cans, but I couldn't find anything.. I noticed that a 2x4 was a good fit for the smaller 7.62mm so me and Budman spent a couple of days figuring the layout for 50 rounds and then started drilling the holes which was a REAL pain as I don't have a drill press!!

But I "endeavored to persevere" and wound up with what you see in the pic's!!

Feel free to brag to you friends about what you did!!!! ;) :D :D
 
Don't Worry! I will! But, when I commercialize your idea you will be cut in for a piece of the action. :-)

BTW; back to the OP's question on case life. It is a "It Depends" answer for each and every cartridge case, but let me tell you a story:

I was privileged to shoot as a 'anytime' guest at the NTS Security R&P Range. They also told me to help my self to all the brass left lying on the ground. I picked up a 1 gal. bucket of WW .38 Spec. nickeled. I started reloading that for my exclusive range practice with my Colt Python and my S&W Model 15. I kept track of the reloads up to the tenth time. After that I just watched for the start of a split and pitched that brass when I saw it. I still have a few 50 round boxes of those reloads around here. I estimate some of it has been reloaded over 15 times. Of course all reloads were of mid-range target velocity, so weren't pushed all that hard. Also, it was 1967 when I picked up that brass. What great service from a commercial product!

Later when I became a Benchrest Competitor, I learned to pick 10 rounds of formed 6 PPC brass and just keep reloading them while competing. I had some brass that lasted over 20 reloads and then were replaced just because the neck tension was getting inconsistent. And everyone of those load were HOT. Of course the chamber was tight, tight, tight and the brass was the best available at the time. ..
 
Thanks. As a new reloader I guess I'm still a bit paranoid. But when you say "until it splits", could there be any damage to the gun depending on the split? I weigh every charge and triple check before the powder goes in and I have a whole system with different colored blocks on different sides of the bench to ensure I am not double charging a case. I check the cases to make sure none are overcharged before I seat a bullet too, so I'm not worried about an overcharge harming the gun, but when a case splits, the pressure in contained by the chamber and no harm to gun or shooter, right?

Splits up in the neck of the cartridge are no big deal they are just a good indication that the brass has lived out it's life. My (very cheap Savage) 22-250 splits about 1neck in 20 or 30 factory rounds and I can't even tell the difference in performance or recoil. I rarely see neck splits in my reloads. Neck splits likely won't hurt your gun or you.

I rarely see neck splits in my pistol brass. I usually get loose primer pockets before the cases split. Reduce, re-use, recycle:p.
 
It depends on the powder charge. The lighter the load the longer the case life is.
 
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