oldfart64
Member
I have been using Hoppe's #9 for nearly 60 years. Every time I shoot my firearms, they get good loving cleaning. I have very few issues with any firearm I have or now own. I see no need to change .
Best Gun Cleaner?
- Thread starter Flattop5
- Start date
I have been using Hoppe's #9 for nearly 60 years. Every time I shoot my firearms, they get good loving cleaning. I have very few issues with any firearm I have or now own. I see no need to change .
I love OneShot Gun Cleaner and Dry Lube. The first thing I do with any new gun is flush the action with GunScrubber and saturate with OneShot. Shooting residue and dirt doesn't stick around and moving parts are lubricated and stay moving smoothly.
kbm6893
Member
I use hoppes as a final pass through the barrel because guns don't feel clean to me unless I smell the hoppes, but in reality I have moved away from products that say "this causes cancer" in the bottle. So MPro7 gets the job done. When I do spray a gun down with brake cleaner I wear heavy duty gloves. Same with the hoppes.
Highhawk1948
Member
Hoppes and Rem Oil
Cardboard_killer
Member
I love kroil as a penetrating oil, but the stuff is so nasty that I never use it for cleaning. I hate the smell, it creeps into everything, and seems like I have to wash my hands a hundred times to get the stuff off. I've heard it is great for removing lead build up, though.
Gun cleaning is not a "one product works best in all situations" type of operation. Hoppes is my go to product on blued guns, as it doesn't effect the bluing. On stainless revolvers, I use treated cloths by Birchwood Casey to clean the end of the cylinder. Do NOT use these on blued guns as it will remove the finish! On models that I shoot lead bullets in (several including .38/.357. 9mm and .45acp) a Lewis lead remover is often used, especially after a long day at the range. I don't own any chrome plated guns, but was always told to avoid using Hoppe's on them because it can work under the plating and cause discoloration.
Cleaning is only part of the operation. Cleaning removes or dilutes lubrication, so after cleaning is done, I use Rem oil on most parts except those that experience heavy forces like slides on automatics, which receive a thin layer of synthetic gun grease. If the gun is going into short term storage, I coat the bore with Rem oil and for long term storage, Rig grease. Anything that isn't stainless also receives a wipe down with a rag containing Rem oil to neutralize remaining traces of cleaning products and oils left by finger prints.
Cleaning is only part of the operation. Cleaning removes or dilutes lubrication, so after cleaning is done, I use Rem oil on most parts except those that experience heavy forces like slides on automatics, which receive a thin layer of synthetic gun grease. If the gun is going into short term storage, I coat the bore with Rem oil and for long term storage, Rig grease. Anything that isn't stainless also receives a wipe down with a rag containing Rem oil to neutralize remaining traces of cleaning products and oils left by finger prints.
Bozz10mm
US Veteran
Weapons Shield, Break Free CLP, and Frog Lube all work well for me.
CQB27
US Veteran
I use Break Free CLP, it's the best!...........Because it's what my agency uses and they provide to officers free of charge. Otherwise I would use whatever worked and cost the least.
2ffat
Member
Hoppe's No.9 Powder Solvent and M-Pro 7 oil.
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Cardboard_killer
Member
I'm drifting this thread, but wanted to mention that I normally do a detail strip of a used handgun when I buy it and use a sonic cleaner with a water based degreaser (krud kutter, super green, etc.) and scrub with a toothbrush for a very through cleaning. Then I generously coat with a CLP, let it sit for a day, wipe down, coat again, let it sit, wipe down, coat it again, let it sit, wipe it down, then lube as I would normally and put it back together. Those "new" oils work better at protecting the metal if you coat them a few times, and at a warm temp, too. About the only think this leaves hanging is copper fouling, but I'm not a precision rifle shooter, so I normally don't worry much about copper fouling.
If there was a BEST pretty much everybody would be using it. I use Hoppes #9 for about 90% of my routine cleaning. I use some specialty stuff on occasion, but mostly it is Hoppes. It works for me.
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