Best way to loosen a stuck screw in a S&W revolver?

[time2swing]

Already bent my S&W screwdriver bit.
Go!

 

[time2swing]

Faceplate screw

 

[Warren Sear]

First discard the S&W screw driver.

Next, soak the screw with PB Blaster for a week.

Get a set of gunsmith screwdrivers and try removing the screw. If that doesn't do it, try soaking the screw for another week.

 

[Decker]

I'm sure that PBblaster is good, but I've used SiliKroil for quite some time and I've found it to be pretty close to magic for getting screws to turn.

But the main trick I wanted to mention is carefully place the CORRECT size screwdriver in the screw slot and then give it a couple of taps with a hammer (just taps, not whacks). That often helps quite a bit.
If it's still obstinate, tap it again and then try putting pressure in the direction of tightening (just some pressure... don't go nuts).
Then try again to loosen it.

Patience is the key.

 

[Big Stick]

Soak and sit with PB blaster as previously mentioned. Hopefully you have an extra set of hands around, and a vice grips for the next step. Place the vice grips on the shaft of the screwdriver, tight. Have somebody else hold the gun to prevent twisting, and support it so you don't bind the cylinder. Place the screwdriver head in the slot, using one hand to apply downward pressure, while using the vice grips to turn the shaft. Hopefully, it breaks loose....

 

[Drm50]

After going through PB and tap treatment and still won't turn.
I take a cheap screw driver, grind to fit screw, hold with pliers
and heat cheap screw driver with propane torch. Careful not to
Let flame hit gun. Soon as flame is taken away spray with PB
Heat will cause expansion and contraction when cooling, that will
break screw loose. I don't work every time, but has worked for
me in several cases.

 

[time2swing]

Do I submerge that part of the gun or just drip the solution onto to screw?

 

[Big Stick]

Do I submerge that part of the gun or just drip the solution onto to screw?

Drip it every few hours.

 

[chief38]

Kroil is VERY VERY good and I have had excellent results with only soaking for a few hours. When I encounter a frozen screw before I get frustrated and do damage to the screw slot or head, I immediately move on to the Drill Press Chuck. Using HAND POWER ONLY, chuck the correct size hollow ground bit, use the Drill Press handle to hold bit in slot and slowly begin to turn screw. I find that if you have someone to help you hold the gun down on a towel placed on the Drill Press table it sure helps a lot.

HERE"S THE KEY!!

Follow this procedure BEFORE you ruin the screw head! As soon as you discover the screw is in tighter than normal and it might be a problem, STOP! Once you strip or ruin the screw slot or head, it only makes matters more difficult. The whole idea is to use this method before the screw is shot...............

 

[Muss Muggins]

Already bent my S&W screwdriver bit.
Go!

Just for future reference, that is a sight adjustment tool, and is only intended to be used as such. Plenty of good advice here about making a stuck screw move.

 

[chief38]

Just for future reference, that is a sight adjustment tool, and is only intended to be used as such. Plenty of good advice here about making a stuck screw move.

EXCELLENT ADVISE MM!

 

[time2swing]

Thx, gonna let it soak for a good long while...

 

[loeman]

I too have had good success using Kroil. However, the whole process demands patience. Give the Kroil or PB time to work and keep dribbling on the screw while you are waiting. How long? I'd give it a couple of days or more.

In another project, I used Kroil to free a set of motorcycle mufflers from the header pipes. They were fused together with burnt oil. It took about a week, but it worked. However, I must add that this project allowed me to use a heavy rubber mallet for extra persuasion.

 

[time2swing]

Just for future reference, that is a sight adjustment tool, and is only intended to be used as such. Plenty of good advice here about making a stuck screw move.

Thx, I didn't know that. Live and learn...

 

[GrayGhost99]

A lot of great recommendations here. I would follow all but I will not get into the polite argument over the best lubricant.
If all of the above fails a bit that fits inserted into a precision impact driver and a smart hammer whack does it every time. Anyone who owns a uberti reproduction rifle probably has had to purchase one for the first tear down. Not terribly expensive.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Hate to mention this, but I once overheard some dufus proclaiming that on hard recoiling magnums like the 460 one should use red locktite on the side plate screws to keep them from coming loose under recoil. I wanted to slap the snot out of him but he was a mite bigger than me and dufus or no, he could probably kick my little cajun butt. I just walked away shaking my head.......

 

[epj]

There just is no fix for stupid.

 

[Seven High]

A propane torch heating a screwdriver shaft will cause red locktite to release. It just takes three hands and patience.

 

[Drm50]

The only screws on a gun that I loctite are scope mount screws.
Screws "lock on the head" you should check your screws after
shooting sessions. I have not had much trouble with S&Ws, but
Have had to remove many frame screws with sheared heads from
SAs. Owners let screws get loose to point recoil sheared head. This would be major pain if loc- tite had been used. Older Rugers
would do this until they started using screws with nylon insert.
My pet-peeve is when guys loctite the plug screws in rifle barrels.
The torch on screw diver method is required to get them out. Also don't use screw driver you heated, they are softened by the
torch.

 

[ameridaddy]

Dealing with this problem makes me so nervous, I put several layers of masking tape all around the screw, just in case the bit slips. I also found a big wad of silly putty underneath is good for supporting an irregular shape like a revolver.
I really liked the Chief38's drill press technique.
I'll use that for more than guns.