blanks to blow out a squib?

Scare tactics leave a lasting impression. I got your point. However...
 
On a vented barrel like a revolver, I don't know if you would get enough pressure buildup to even burn the smokeless powder efficiently enough to push the obstructing bullet out of the barrel, even if using a wax bullet to help the powder burn. And if it does, it still sounds pretty dangerous to even try. I know that I wouldn't want to test this out on any revolver I own and wouldn't want to be around someone else doing this either. Like others have said, get yourself a range rod.
 
Assuming a squib to be a round fired leaving the bullet lodged in the bore, the use of any charged case brings the nasty possibilities of either a bulged barrel or a ruptured barrel, possibly with fragmentation effect in the surrounding area.

Removing a stuck bullet is not terribly difficult. A solid brass or aluminum rod (less than bore diameter) and a mallet are all that is needed. Some good penetrating oil eases the process. A padded bench vise to hold the firearm securely helps.

I would leave the firearm in muzzle up position and the bore liberally treated with Kroil or WD-40 overnight. Secure the firearm in a vise with well padded jaws (leather or wood). Insert rod at the muzzle and tap (not pound) the bullet back through the bore. After clearing the bore a thorough cleaning and inspection (paying particular attention for barrel bulging behind the stuck bullet) are called for before further use.
 
Versus the cost of the emergency room.......

This would be a good one to send into Mythbusters because we're ALL curious about danger!

Yeah, it probably won't blow up your gun. Probably.

But then, how much does a foot of brass rod cost vs. the cost of a barrel? ;)
 
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yteqe3ug.jpg

DOUBLE CHARGE OF BULLSEYE?????
 
Assuming a squib to be a round fired leaving the bullet lodged in the bore, the use of any charged case brings the nasty possibilities of either a bulged barrel or a ruptured barrel, possibly with fragmentation effect in the surrounding area.
...because...the barrel is not supported against high pressures as well as in the cylinder area? Possibly. I would think the pressure would be lower at the stuck squib because of the distance from the throat and the cylinder/barrel gap. Especially if the charge was the same or less. This would need to be proved in a scientific laboratory type condition before I venture to clear a weapon in this fashion.

Just to clear the air, the squib that I suggested was theoretical. I do not have a squib round to clear in any of my weapons. I like yourself would personally utilize a squib rod if one would occur to me.
 
I wouldn't use Hatcher's method in a handgun. Using a rod and hammer is much better. However, I have used Hatcher's method (pulling the bullet from another round and dumping out about half the powder charge) on several occasions in rifles, and it works fine. And in fact it is preferable to using a rod and hammer, as there is no possibility of damage to the bore.
 
I wouldn't use Hatcher's method in a handgun. Using a rod and hammer is much better. However, I have used Hatcher's method (pulling the bullet from another round and dumping out about half the powder charge) on several occasions in rifles, and it works fine. And in fact it is preferable to using a rod and hammer, as there is no possibility of damage to the bore.

Confused with your statements and borders on "fork-tongue". :confused:
"Using a rod and hammer is much better."
" And in fact it is preferable to using a rod and hammer, as there is no possibility of damage to the bore."
 
If possible bore damage is a worry, try a hardwood dowel matched as closely as possible to the bore diameter, use a good dose of oil, and tap patiently.
 
Just to clear the air, the squib that I suggested was theoretical. I do not have a squib round to clear in any of my weapons. I like yourself would personally utilize a squib rod if one would occur to me.[/QUOTE]

thats funny. you got everyone fired up. do it again
 
This post has been an interesting read. It sort of reminds me of some of the good ol' boys famous last words around here when they attempt something with a potential hazardous outcome - "Hey ya'll watch this!" :)
 
Confused with your statements and borders on "fork-tongue". :confused:
"Using a rod and hammer is much better."
" And in fact it is preferable to using a rod and hammer, as there is no possibility of damage to the bore."

simple ... most bolt actions tend to be fairly overbuilt to begin with which makes this workable.
Autos have their weaknesses that can render the arm inoperable and handguns do not have the inherent strength of any decent rifle.

This is not something I ever want to have to do to any gun unless my situation includes a description of being long on enemy, short on provisions and a 50+ mile hike to sanity.

Save this, theres no logical reason to try it.
 
No. Blanks are quite powerful, contrary to popular belief. A number of people have killed themselves by putting a handgun to their heads and firing a blank. There is enough pressure there to put a hole in a skull and turn the brain to mush.

Best is a brass rod about bore diameter. Or a steel rod with a brass tip about bore diameter.

I'm a bit nervous about putting a steel rod down the bore. Depending on the length inserted and flex, you can still bugger the muzzle. I've seen steel cleaning rods, but I've always been hesitant to use them.

I don't like putting anything down the bore that is as hard as the barrel steel.
 
I concur.....As a professional instructor of over 4 decades....30 of those as a LE instructor ( and armorer).....I have seen my share of lodged projectiles, particularly from handloads.....have carried a brass range rod and mallet in my range kit since the 70's.....had a young lady pound four lead bullets up the pipe of a Ruger Sp 101 during a citizen NRA pistol class once....the 4th bullet lodged in between the cylinder and barrel...tied up the cylinder....which was fortuitous, since the 5th round had a full powder charge in it.....took a trip to the machine shop to solve that conundrum.

AS AN NRA CERTIFIED INSTRUCTOR MYSELF, FOR OVER 30 YEARS, I MUST QUESTION THE LEVEL OF SUPERVISION (OR LACK THEREOF) THAT WOULD ALLOW A YOUNG STUDENT TO PUMP 4 CONSECUTIVE SQUIB ROUNDS UP THE BARREL OF A REVOLVER, WITHOUT INTERVENTION………
 
AS AN NRA CERTIFIED INSTRUCTOR MYSELF, FOR OVER 30 YEARS, I MUST QUESTION THE LEVEL OF SUPERVISION (OR LACK THEREOF) THAT WOULD ALLOW A YOUNG STUDENT TO PUMP 4 CONSECUTIVE SQUIB ROUNDS UP THE BARREL OF A REVOLVER, WITHOUT INTERVENTION………

it's fairly easy ........
seen this stunt happen under rapid fire in a 10/22
was right around number 6 or 7 the shooter figured something was off.
the bore became a little interesting after that one, bulged at each impact point as they stacked up .... being straight lead I cleared them with mercury.
when possible, mercury trumps all methods as long as it can contact the lead.
 
I'm a bit nervous about putting a steel rod down the bore. Depending on the length inserted and flex, you can still bugger the muzzle. I've seen steel cleaning rods, but I've always been hesitant to use them.

I don't like putting anything down the bore that is as hard as the barrel steel.

Cold rolled steel rods, as sold in most hardware stores, are much softer than bbl steel.
 
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