Blueing coming off cylinder after 100 rounds

[SRS308]

I wasn't expecting this until I put atleast 1000 rounds. And probably more but after I shot my 29-10 with 100 rounds I noticed at the front cylinder the color had come off. I had sprayed Ballistol in the chambers and was wiping off when I saw the color had come off.
I said to myself, no way it was the Ballistor cause I hadn't gotten any on the outside part yet. And even that, it would not have been on there that long.

Damn shame, I was all happy with my new baby.

 

[MrG5122]

Are you shooting lead? That looks suspiciously like the lead deposits I get on mine. If it's not, that bites. It looks like a little on the crane also.

 

[wrangler5]

I got the same "marks" on my ancient Model 10-8 when I started shooting lead bullets. I expected blast rings around the throats on the front face of the cylinder, but the lines on the outside are really annoying.

 

[824tsv]

Looks like lead to me. Soak the area with some good solvent and scrub lightly with a bronze brush.

 

[BB57]

I tend to agree with the others that lead is the culprit. Most bore solvent will soften lead deposits given enough time, just go gentle on the scrubbing, to remove it, even with a bronze brush - you want to remove the lead deposited on the blueing, not the blueing itself.

However, I'm also concerned that unlike lead on the cylinder face, which is pretty normal, that amount of lead on the side would suggest it's got some timing issues and could be spitting some lead back at you. Are you feeling any particles hitting your ears or face when you shoot?

 

[Pizza Bob]

Do NOT use an ammoniated solvent or you will likely remove the finish. I agree with the others, that is lead deposition.

Adios,

Bob Hess

 

[scooter123]

I agree with all the others who have posted. One aspect of the newer revolvers that are pre-drilled and tapped for a top mounting rail is that the forward hole above the barrel extension inside the frame causes a "reflecton" of the hot gases and vaporized lead to the outside surface of the cylinder. Which is why you are seeing lead deposits in this area.

Cleaning. To get these deposits cleaned off requires a bit of caution and TIME. I would suggest using M-Pro 7 solvent and a bronze brush. It will take some time (an hour perhaps) with a light scrubbing action but the payoff is you won't cause any noticeable loss of the bluing. BTW, do this enough and you'll conclude that plated (or TMJ) bullets are worth what they cost.

 

[SRS308]

Are you shooting lead? That looks suspiciously like the lead deposits I get on mine. If it's not, that bites. It looks like a little on the crane also.

Looks like lead to me. Soak the area with some good solvent and scrub lightly with a bronze brush.

Yes, I was shooting lead. I had put some solvent, and wiped it with a cloth but it didn't come off. It doesn't look like its deposit. Unless I'm a real duh and need to put a little more muscle to it. I'll check it out again with a bronze brush. Thank you.

 

[Glynngaddy]

I agree, shooting soft cast in some of my guns does this too. It will come off

 

[BC38]

Just a question. Since the leading is so evenly distributed and is on the cylinder face, the corner edges of the areas between the cylinder flutes and even on the yoke, is this due to shooting loads that are too "hot"? Is this vaporized lead that has blown out the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone - depositing it on all these surfaces?

 

[SRS308]

I couldn't figure out how to post a few pictures all at one time. Here's another angle shot.

 

[M3Stuart]

Use a brash brush and it will come right off.

 

[MrG5122]

I use one of Mommas wooden cuticle sticks and a little Hoppes on my blued guns. A brush on the stainless ones. It's just lead.

 

[9mmsubgun-m11]

Just a question. Since the leading is so evenly distributed and is on the cylinder face, the corner edges of the areas between the cylinder flutes and even on the yoke, is this due to shooting loads that are too "hot"? Is this vaporized lead that has blown out the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone - depositing it on all these surfaces?

Anytime an exposed lead bullet is fired there will be a little mist of molten lead.

 

[BC38]

Anytime an exposed lead bullet is fired there will be a little mist of molten lead.

Makes sense, but normally only tiny trace amounts, right? But I'm thinking that the hotter the load the more vaporized lead there'll be - and for it to lead up like that after only 100 rounds, they'd have to be pretty hot - or the lead would have to be a really soft alloy...

 

[Jerry N.]

I use one of Mommas wooden cuticle sticks and a little Hoppes on my blued guns. A brush on the stainless ones. It's just lead.

Exactly what I did but I used a bamboo skewer. I never thought of a cuticle stick, but that's basically what I made from the skewer. I had that on my .22 revolver and thought the same thing. It's lead and it will come off, but it takes some effort. I like the idea of solvent and wood on a blue finish. I didn't want to get any more aggressive than I had to. Taking your time and letting the solvent work helps too.

 

[David LaPell]

I used to get the exact same thing when I shot cast bullets out of my 29-2 and my 27-2. It's lead build up.

 

[at_liberty]

<snip> BTW, do this enough and you'll conclude that plated (or TMJ) bullets are worth what they cost.

Or that a stainless gun is better for shooting lead and cleaning to your liking.

 

[THEWELSHM]

Is it me ?? wow that's thin looking Blue on that gun???? I guess the older were richer looking?

thewelshm

 

[Pizza Bob]

I use one of Mommas wooden cuticle sticks and a little Hoppes on my blued guns. A brush on the stainless ones. It's just lead.

Hoppe's is ammoniated. You stand the chance of ruining the finish on a blued gun - especially the newer ones (not sure when S&W changed their bluing process). Hoppe's is a bore cleaner - keep it in the bore or chambers, do not use it on the exterior of the gun.

Adios,

Pizza Bob