Blueing coming off cylinder after 100 rounds

SRS308

SRS308

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I wasn't expecting this until I put atleast 1000 rounds. And probably more but after I shot my 29-10 with 100 rounds I noticed at the front cylinder the color had come off. I had sprayed Ballistol in the chambers and was wiping off when I saw the color had come off.
I said to myself, no way it was the Ballistor cause I hadn't gotten any on the outside part yet. And even that, it would not have been on there that long.

Damn shame, I was all happy with my new baby. :(
 

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I got the same "marks" on my ancient Model 10-8 when I started shooting lead bullets. I expected blast rings around the throats on the front face of the cylinder, but the lines on the outside are really annoying.
 
Looks like lead to me. Soak the area with some good solvent and scrub lightly with a bronze brush.
 
I tend to agree with the others that lead is the culprit. Most bore solvent will soften lead deposits given enough time, just go gentle on the scrubbing, to remove it, even with a bronze brush - you want to remove the lead deposited on the blueing, not the blueing itself.

However, I'm also concerned that unlike lead on the cylinder face, which is pretty normal, that amount of lead on the side would suggest it's got some timing issues and could be spitting some lead back at you. Are you feeling any particles hitting your ears or face when you shoot?
 
Do NOT use an ammoniated solvent or you will likely remove the finish. I agree with the others, that is lead deposition.

Adios,

Bob Hess
 
I agree with all the others who have posted. One aspect of the newer revolvers that are pre-drilled and tapped for a top mounting rail is that the forward hole above the barrel extension inside the frame causes a "reflecton" of the hot gases and vaporized lead to the outside surface of the cylinder. Which is why you are seeing lead deposits in this area.

Cleaning. To get these deposits cleaned off requires a bit of caution and TIME. I would suggest using M-Pro 7 solvent and a bronze brush. It will take some time (an hour perhaps) with a light scrubbing action but the payoff is you won't cause any noticeable loss of the bluing. BTW, do this enough and you'll conclude that plated (or TMJ) bullets are worth what they cost.
 
MrG5122 said:
Are you shooting lead? That looks suspiciously like the lead deposits I get on mine. If it's not, that bites. It looks like a little on the crane also.
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824tsv said:
Looks like lead to me. Soak the area with some good solvent and scrub lightly with a bronze brush.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was shooting lead. I had put some solvent, and wiped it with a cloth but it didn't come off. It doesn't look like its deposit. Unless I'm a real duh and need to put a little more muscle to it. I'll check it out again with a bronze brush. Thank you.
 
Just a question. Since the leading is so evenly distributed and is on the cylinder face, the corner edges of the areas between the cylinder flutes and even on the yoke, is this due to shooting loads that are too "hot"? Is this vaporized lead that has blown out the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone - depositing it on all these surfaces?
 
I couldn't figure out how to post a few pictures all at one time. Here's another angle shot.
 

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I use one of Mommas wooden cuticle sticks and a little Hoppes on my blued guns. A brush on the stainless ones. It's just lead.
 
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BC38 said:
Just a question. Since the leading is so evenly distributed and is on the cylinder face, the corner edges of the areas between the cylinder flutes and even on the yoke, is this due to shooting loads that are too "hot"? Is this vaporized lead that has blown out the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone - depositing it on all these surfaces?
Click to expand...

Anytime an exposed lead bullet is fired there will be a little mist of molten lead.
 
9mmsubgun-m11 said:
Anytime an exposed lead bullet is fired there will be a little mist of molten lead.
Click to expand...
Makes sense, but normally only tiny trace amounts, right? But I'm thinking that the hotter the load the more vaporized lead there'll be - and for it to lead up like that after only 100 rounds, they'd have to be pretty hot - or the lead would have to be a really soft alloy...
 
MrG5122 said:
I use one of Mommas wooden cuticle sticks and a little Hoppes on my blued guns. A brush on the stainless ones. It's just lead.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I did but I used a bamboo skewer. I never thought of a cuticle stick, but that's basically what I made from the skewer. I had that on my .22 revolver and thought the same thing. It's lead and it will come off, but it takes some effort. I like the idea of solvent and wood on a blue finish. I didn't want to get any more aggressive than I had to. Taking your time and letting the solvent work helps too.
 
MrG5122 said:
I use one of Mommas wooden cuticle sticks and a little Hoppes on my blued guns. A brush on the stainless ones. It's just lead.
Click to expand...

Hoppe's is ammoniated. You stand the chance of ruining the finish on a blued gun - especially the newer ones (not sure when S&W changed their bluing process). Hoppe's is a bore cleaner - keep it in the bore or chambers, do not use it on the exterior of the gun.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
Steer clear of Hoppes on the newer blued guns. Hoppes is great, but the newer blued guns from S&W don't react well to it.

Ballistol of Break Free and some careful brushing should do the trick. I have also heard others use an eraser off a pencil, or the bigger rectangle eraser can get lead off.

Just don't get too aggressive.

Also, if it is leading, once you have it cleaned up, wax the outside of the Cylinder, and see if that makes the lead come off easier.

Good luck.
 
Never had this problem, but a lot of reading on forums and also removing the lead from 22LR guns that were never cleaned - I began using Kroil as part of my deleading process. Its great stuff and penetrates under the lead. so I would suggest trying Kroil over night, to see if it will help to get it loose. Just started shooting lead bullets in a new S&W a few months ago and after spending hours removing lead from the barrel, have gone to plated bullets. If you need a few lead 44 bullets and will pay the shipping, I will send them, because I will never put a lead bullet back in any of my guns, I will pay a little extra for the plated as I do not run a large number of rounds down range in my pistols.
 
I purchased a ruger 22cal target pistol that was so leaded up in the chamber area it probably didn't function anymore. I jumped on it since it looked like new. My point is lead is removable. I got a brand new pistol for $150. Lazy people didn't clean it.

It's a lead dust or powder. What's your cylinder gap set at?

I shoot the Carolina lead coated bullets.

What could we put on the front of the cylinder and throat area as a non stick? Pam? Oil? Moly?
 
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Well folks, first I want to say Thank you for all the advice and help. As you probably can tell, I'm a newbie in the wheel gun department. But I do have a Governor too but I have been shooting 45 thru it and haven't experienced the lead part.

All is good. I took a brass brush to it and gently brush the lead off as all said it would.

I'm a happy camper again. :)
 
Collects said:
That is lead buildup, not bluing loss.

Shooting fully plated bullets will not result in lead residue on the cylinder.
Click to expand...

Are semi-jacketed soft points (SJSP) equally effective in reducing leading? I use Fiocchi 240 gr SJSP ammo in my stainless Ruger 44s and have not yet noticed any leading on the cylinders.
 
SRS308 said:
Well folks, first I want to say Thank you for all the advice and help. As you probably can tell, I'm a newbie in the wheel gun department. But I do have a Governor too but I have been shooting 45 thru it and haven't experienced the lead part.

All is good. I took a brass brush to it and gently brush the lead off as all said it would.

I'm a happy camper again. :)
Click to expand...

Great!! Glad you got that sorted out. You can prevent most of the difficult clean up by rubbing on some Renaissance Wax when the revolver is clean. The lead build up will still show up after use, but will clean up a lot quicker and easier in my experience. The wax will also make your revolver shine and is a great finish preservative.
 
824tsv said:
Great!! Glad you got that sorted out. You can prevent most of the difficult clean up by rubbing on some Renaissance Wax when the revolver is clean. The lead build up will still show up after use, but will clean up a lot quicker and easier in my experience. The wax will also make your revolver shine and is a great finish preservative.
Click to expand...

+1 on the wax.
 
BC38 said:
Makes sense, but normally only tiny trace amounts, right? But I'm thinking that the hotter the load the more vaporized lead there'll be - and for it to lead up like that after only 100 rounds, they'd have to be pretty hot - or the lead would have to be a really soft alloy...
Click to expand...

The hotter the load the more leading you will get. Hot or not you will have molten lead spatter. I have been loading more plated bullets recently to stay away from it with a couple of the newer guns I have been shooting heavily.
 
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