Bodyguard 2.0 sights / ammo questions

Deke Thornton

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I just took my new BG 2.0 to the range for the first time, and left with two somewhat contradictory problems to solve.

Like everyone else, mine came out of the box printing low left. Fortunately I'd been expecting that and brought my punch set. I drifted both the front and rear sights (left and right, respectively) and it looks really weird now, but shoots center.

I had four types of ammo with me: Fiocchi Range Dynamics, Magtech, Sellier & Bellot and Hornady Critical Defence. The ball ammo all printed a good 4" low at 10 yards, but the Critical Defence was pretty much centered.


The two problems are:

-Where can I find an adjustable rear sight to get my training ammo to hit center?

-If I do that though, the CD will end up hitting high and that's the stuff that really needs to hit where I'm aiming.


I was thinking about switching to a different defense ammo that matched the ballistics of the ball ammo, but then they're all printing low. Shooting exclusively CD through the gun is prohibitively expensive. I put about 150 rounds through it today and although the factory sights aren't target sights, they're adequate for the intended purpose of the weapon. I don't dislike them enough to change them at this point, other than the fact I'm gutshooting all my silhouettes.

Does anyone shoot CD in their BG 2.0, and if so, have you found a ball ammo that matches the ballistics of the CD to train with?

Should I forget about the CD entirely and use a different defense ammo that hits in the same place the ball ammo does, and just remember to always aim high?
 
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I'd be interested to see a photo of the sights. Do you place the front sight OVER the target or BELOW the target?

I use a center hold, which works well on all my other pistols. Even if I was using a 6 o'clock, the POI is substantially below that.


I realized last night as I was falling asleep that my problem has a simple, elegant solution: do nothing.

As long as I can print tight, centered groups consistently with ball ammo, even if they're low, I know that my carry rounds will hit center. I won't be shooting matches with this gun, so the fact I can't hit bullseyes with the ball ammo is irrelevant. I measured the tagets and the average POI for the ball was 3" low, I'll probably re-calculate against the Hornady in a month or so when the gun and I both settle in.

Otherwise, I quite like the pistol. Of the three ball ammo types I tried I had two stovepipes with Magtech, but it was in the first 25 rounds out of the gun so that may just have been teething problems. Still, I got slightly tighter groups with Fiocci and S+B which may be attributable to my being more used to the trigger by the time I fired them, but I'll stick with those for training anyway. The Hornady printed a substantially tighter group, it's clearly made to tighter tolerances.
 
The problem with .380 HP ammo is lack of 12" penetration (FBI minimum) when the HP actually expands. And the good .380 ammo that does expand just barely makes the 12". Some people prefer using FMJ or Flat Point bullet to guarantee penetration.

You could try the Federal Hydra-Shok Deep, as it will usually make 12"+ of penetration with expansion. It's a 99 gr. bullet and may work for you. I switched from CD to this stuff, as the results in Gel just looked better. In fact I also use it in .38 spl. & in .32 H&R/Auto.

Or you may also want to check into other ammo that will hit to POA. FMJ, FMJ flat point, or even some of the newer screwdriver type ammo. Another option is a HP that won't expand. These seem to create a better wound channel than an FMJ & will give around 19"+ of penetration.
 
The problem with .380 HP ammo is lack of 12" penetration (FBI minimum) when the HP actually expands. And the good .380 ammo that does expand just barely makes the 12". Some people prefer using FMJ or Flat Point bullet to guarantee penetration.
I prefer Winchester 95 gr. flat nose because it's much less expensive. But if you want a hollow point, check out this test of the Federal Train and Protect shot from a Bodyguard 2.0 Decent expansion and 16 inch penetration.
 
Do those run OK in a Bodyguard 2.0? I've heard they don't like flat nose projectiles.
I have shot Winchester FMJ Flat Nose 95 gr and Sig Sauer Elite Flat Nose 100 gr with zero issues.

I have also shot Winchester PDX1 BJHP 95 gr, Sig Sauer Elite JHP 90 gr, Hornady Custom XTP 90 gr, Hornaday Critical Defense FTX 90 gr, Federal HST JHP 99 gr, PMC Bronze FMJ 90 gr, Magtech FMJ 95 gr, all with zero issues.

My barrel feed ramp has been polished. :)
 
Do those run OK in a Bodyguard 2.0? I've heard they don't like flat nose projectiles.

I always find it’s best to try out whatever ammo in your particular gun. Unfortunately some guns of the same make/model won’t always run reliably as someone else’s with certain ammo. Including POA/POI.

As an example, I’ve gone through 3 Glock 42’s, and the first two needed hotter ammo to run/cycle than the third.
 
I always find it’s best to try out whatever ammo in your particular gun. Unfortunately some guns of the same make/model won’t always run reliably as someone else’s with certain ammo. Including POA/POI.
This is good advice. At least the Winchester 95 gr flat nose is cheap enough that you can test it properly. Some of the "Defense Ammunition" is so expensive that you could buy an extra Bodyguard 2.0 for what you would spend properly testing the ammo.
 
The absolute best sights (IMO) for my BG 2.0 are from XS.com and are the R3D sights for that gun. I didn't like the stock since since they were way off (like yours) and orange.

I have well over 1000 rounds now from mine and no FTF or stove pipes. I polished my feed ramp and it eats anything I put in it. Also, I clean my BG 2.0 well when I'm done with every range session.
 
"Also, I clean my BG 2.0 well when I'm done with every range session."

I have noticed that even after only 50 to 75 rounds, the extractor hook and area at the firing pin port becomes very carboned up with ammo residue. I spend extra time cleaning that area with a needle point q-tip and Bore Tech Inc's Cu+2 Copper Remover. Then I very lightly lube the extractor with Clenzoil.
 

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