Bodyguard 38 spl reliability?

[bg38l]

Hi all, I have owned an M&P shield that's been rock solid with close to a thousand rounds through it. I was so pleased with the Shield I recently purchased a Bodyguard 38 with laser. I shot about 30 rounds through it and prob had about 150 dry-fire (with snapcaps) trigger pulls on it when it locked up solid. I contacted S&W support, they sent me a prepaid return label. After 5 weeks (longer than I had it) I got it back. No complaints on the repair process btw and I understand the time it took too. On the repair order included it says the following services were performed:


Evaluate/Repair
Replace Sear
Replace Lock Arm


I found a youtube video where someone else had a similar issue and they did the same exact repair. That video was several years old if I recall. Anyway, wondering why a brand new revolver would need the "Sear" and "Lock Arm" replaced and is this a common failure point on these revolvers? and what's their service life before needing replacement again?



I found a pic of a "Sear" online but not the "lock arm" (btw the BG doesn't have a lock per se, or at least not mine so this must be some internal part). Should I be concerned about the reliability if it for CC?

 

[stansdds]

Not a clue as to what a lock arm is, perhaps that's what the S&W assembly line kids call the hand?

I'd certainly test fire it and dry fire it to check for reliability before carrying.

 

[Sgt. Buzzard]

Could this be an internal lock issue?

 

[bg38l]

I'll definitely be running a couple of hundred rounds through it before trusting it but I was curious if these parts are a common failure items on the snub nose revolvers and how they get damaged. I'm a revolver newbie so not entirely familiar with the internal parts and terminology.


It being an internal lock did cross my mind, perhaps something like this: Smith & Wesson Revolver Internal Lock Plug Replacement Kit | TK Custom Store.

 

[chief38]

As I would treat any gun that had issues, shoot it at least 300 rounds or so and see if the issue is really gone. If so, I guess it's fixed and reliable. If not, you can request a new one and see what they say.

My very first carry gun back in 1979 was a 2" RB M10. It too intermittently locked up (no Internal Locks back then). I sent it to S&W 3 separate times and after 3 times they could not fix the gun. Since it was my EDC gun, I drove up there and after explaining the whole story, they took the gun, destroyed it and put my serial number on a brand new one off the line while I was having lunch that day. The new gun was 100% perfect and that was that. Apparently, they said the Frame was out of spec and could not be repaired. Hopefully that's not the case with yours.

 

[Patton1970]

The only issue I have had with my M&P BG38 over the past few years is the occasional light primer strike on some of my reloads where I used SRP instead of SPP. I don't have a high count on the pistol however, maybe 300 or so rounds at best. Nice thing about DA revolvers is if the first cartridge does not fire just pull the trigger again and advance to the next round.

 

[.455_Hunter]

The new Bodyguard .38 is a combat ineffective design. The NIB one I examined would not rotate the cylinder unless the it was hand-turned to a station position after the cylinder was closed.

 

[bg38l]

The only issue I have had with my M&P BG38 over the past few years is the occasional light primer strike on some of my reloads where I used SRP instead of SPP. I don't have a high count on the pistol however, maybe 300 or so rounds at best. Nice thing about DA revolvers is if the first cartridge does not fire just pull the trigger again and advance to the next round.

That's good to hear! There are a couple of youtubers who've done 5+yrs reviews without noting anything like what I experienced.

The new Bodyguard .38 is a combat ineffective design. The NIB one I examined would not rotate the cylinder unless the it was hand-turned to a station position after the cylinder was closed.

Mine does this too, as well as others I know of. Can you explain what you mean by 'hand-turned to a station position'? I ask because to me it's very random, sometimes after closing the cylinder it rotates when you pull the trigger, other times the cylinder doesn't rotate. I thought it may have been the cylinder release latch not seating properly? Nonetheless, as long as there's a round in that chamber it'll fire, if it's empty you pull the trigger again to advance to the next cylinder, so I didn't think it was a big deal...just odd.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Had that same problem with a Ruger LCR (little crappy revolver ) in 22 that I had bought. Locked up after dry firing. Sent it back to Ruger and they pretty much replaced all the internals. Sold it when I got it back. I think there is an inherent design flaw in these new half steel half plastic revolvers and since then I have foresworn any further involvement with them-either Smith or Ruger. Decided that I would stick with a time proven J frame and a SP101 frame revolver for that size as there really isn't a whit of difference in the weight with the Smith BG .38and an airweight J frame in .38. RUger on the other hand offers no airweight SP101 framed revolvers so go heavy or go home with a snubby .38.
Hate to trash a whole line of firearms-but....you asked