Broken S&W revolver

. . . As others have said, there just isn’t enough there in the original image to definitely identify the model variation or his problem . . .

A couple did welcome our new member, but I did not, but better late than never. Welcome to the Forum.

Have to disagree. The only long trigger/hand spring guns that S&W ever made were the first 51,126 Model 1903s. I know of no other model with that spring.

Everything is the same, except for the fact that the OP's gun has the hand removed. I originally assumed that the OP had done that, but maybe that is the part missing and causing the problems with the action not working?? Without the hand, I assume that the trigger will not rebound properly.

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There appears to be a pin missing on the OP's cylinder stop. And the OP's trigger stud hole is elongated. It is more of a slot than a defined diameter hole. That would allow the trigger to slide rearward but I'm not sure why.


Edit: Ok, how about this hypothesis. As the trigger is pulled, the double action sear keeps it from moving rearward as the hammer is cocked. But, after clearing the sear, the trigger moves rearward and clears the cylinder stop. But, does that allow a more effective engagement of the cylinder stop with the cylinder or does it allow a more effective engagement of the double action sear as the trigger is released?
 
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A couple did welcome our new member, but I did not, but better late than never. Welcome to the Forum.

Have to disagree. The only long trigger/hand spring guns that S&W ever made were the first 51,126 Model 1903s. I know of no other model with that spring.

Everything is the same, except for the fact that the OP's gun has the hand removed. I originally assumed that the OP had done that, but maybe that is the part missing and causing the problems with the action not working?? Without the hand, I assume that the trigger will not rebound properly.

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I'm no expert but in my observation I see no pin on the cylinder lock? Where the trigger in gauges and yes the hand is missing just my thoughts
 
Welcome to the Forum.

Looks like the hand is in the background.

That's not a 1899. I just had mine apart. I think it is an early I frame.

Correction: I believe what I see is the grip screw.

Looks like the 4th screw with plunger that goes into the cylinder stop. See that the cyl. stop is hanging below frame window not under tension.
 
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HI i think that the plunger that is missing from the cyl stop has broken .Not allowing the trigger to pull down the cyl stop.thus locking up the gun -cyl can't turn -trigger can't be pulled You will have to remove parts to be able to remove the trigger , On the back side of the cyl lock you will find a small disk with a hole in the center ,this holds the plunger & spring in place.The plunger can break the tip off ,this is what the trigger extreme front hooks on to pull the cylinder lock out of engagement with the cylinder.Then as the trigger returns it cams the plunger into the cylinder lock and the hammer returns to reset. The plunger is very small and a smith that is familiar with the model could make one .It is a trial and error to get it right ,i have made one for my gun. HOPE YOU FIND the broken pieces
this is how my 1899 38 caliber S/N 20975 lock work operates
 
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I have a place that might have the complete cyl. stop or the parts .He has bailed my *** out many times .Call and follow his directions and he will reply shortly
Traders den1655 Olson ,Dr Cook Min. -55723
P.H.218-666-5083
 
Better Picture

Thanks everyone for the replies. I dropped the gun off at a local gunsmith but he wouldn't attempt to repair because of how old it is. I am posting a better picture. I still haven't changed the spring that several people pointed out.

I believe the part that is the problem is the small piece in the picture below the gun. It locks the cylinder in place.
 

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I contacted the guy that walter_o suggested. I sent him the old one. He is going to match it and send me one. Thanks everyone for the help. I'll let you know how it turns out. This site has proven to be a great find!!!
 
Getting closer

Okay. So I received the cylinder lock (I will post pics) and it looks like it is the right part but the trigger doesn’t contact the pin that makes it move the lock from the cylinder. Either it is close but not the right part or the trigger tip broke off when the cylinder lock pin broke. Any thoughts?
 

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It would help if you gave you location. For all we know one of the early model experts lives very close to you and could drive over and get you lined out or tell you of a gun smith with experience on these who is nearby.

I know I would be willing to go help out a fellow S&W owner.
 
In what way does the trigger miss the pin . -doesn't stick out far enough to be caught by the trigger -or-trigger does not extend forward to catch the pin ? Is the pin spring loaded and pushed out toward the triggerenough to be caught by the trigger hook?
 
Here is a closeup comparison of your and my cylinder stop. I cannot see any difference for sure there, but without closeup visualization, I cannot state they are the same or not?? It does look, however, that it is different looking at the rear top of the cylinder stop as it enters into the lock section? I also show the hammer of my No Change 1903 to compare to your hammer, but again cannot tell if both are identical or not with the images already supplied in this thread?

Let me add an image with circles around the part of the stop that looks different.

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