can your shield do this?

[shutupdata113]

When I press down on top of barrel where it's stamped 9mm, it will depress and put the slide out of battery. Is this what they call poor "lock-up"? Should I be concerned? It's been 100% with around 750 rds. Down range. My full size M&P won't do it.

 

[rags]

Went to the Doctor and told him, "It hurts when I do this!" Doc says. "Don't do that..." Sorry I had to.

Mine isn't readily available at the moment or I would check. Someone will have the answer shortly I'm sure. Interesting...

 

[tpence2177]

One sec and I will check mine that I got last Friday
Edit: mine does that as well. I have shot 25ish rounds so far flawlessly. Sounds normal... I hope

 

[robkarrob]

Shield 40 here and pulling up and pushing down on the front of the barrel (empty chamber and no magazine installed) has less than 1/64 inch play, so no mine doesn't do that. I have a very close fit between slide and rails.

I would also bet it doesn't do it on your Shield with a full mag as the spring pressure of the top cartridge is pushing up on the rear of the slide and should prevent this. Maybe I don't fully understand but how does pushing straight down cause the slide to move rearward and out of battery? Are you pushing down and rearward?

How about a short video showing this issue.

Bob

 

[tpence2177]

At first I thought mine didn't either but you have to push down withs decent amount of force kinda pushing back in a way as well on mine.

As long as mine functions fine though it doesn't matter to me so far with my limited amount of use it has functioned flawlessly and seems very accurate. Should be able to put several more hundred rounds through mine in the next few weeks.

 

[RobzGuns]

If I push straight down, my 2.5Y/O Shield only moves a fraction of an inch, but if I push really hard, mine will move slightly rearward and down out of battery.

In real life, especially if/when holstered, I can't see where something might push hard enough to push it out of battery. If I'm holding it, my gun hand would move downward before the barrel would move.

So... Refer back to rags...

 

[Gunhacker]

Think a moment about what takes place when you start to pull the slide back... the barrel drops and begins to cam downward. When you press down on the barrel block, you're making it move on the cams backwards and down, like it's designed to do.

If you had the hand strength of the incredible Hulk to easily over come the recoil spring tension, you could probably do the same thing to a full sized M&P, or any other pistol... the smaller Shield is just easier.

Out of curiosity... I just unlocked my unloaded Glock 22 by pressing down and backwards (with moderate effort) on the top of the barrel block. I'd try it on my full size M&P's but at this hour of the night, I'm too lazy to go pull them from my safe.

 

[mafbloggerdanny]

I can do this with my CORE and also my Shield if i push downward and backwards at an approximately 210 degree angle with a considerable amount of pressure. I'm really not disturbed that this is possible, i don't know how this would make the gun unsafe or see how this would ever happen during normal operation

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Amazing.........positively amazing.........

 

[hokiefyd]

My Shield does this as well, and I'm sort of disappointed in it. Not that I can push the barrel hood down and force it out of battery, but I'm disappointed in how it goes into, and stays in, battery.

My two other pistols, a Kel-Tec and a CZ, are designed such that the barrel hood raises and locks up with the slide...but then it continues to slide forward another 1/8 or 1/4 of an inch to go fully into battery. The Shield just lifts the barrel hood up and that's it.

The reason I don't care for this quite as much is I've found that it sometimes doesn't go fully into battery on its own. Either that, or if you slide the slide back slightly to chamber check the pistol, you have to push it back into battery, because it won't go on its own.

None of this has negatively impacted operation at all...but it is a design element that I wish they'd have done differently.

 

[robkarrob]

Shield out of battery was discussed thoroughly over a year ago. If the gun is OOB, by pulling the trigger if will go back into battery, and by continuing to pull the trigger, it will fire. If the trigger is pulled very fast, it will go into battery, but will not fire. The trigger must be released to get the sear reset, and by pulling the trigger again, it will then fire. Easy to test using a spent casing in the chamber and a loaded mag in the well. The OOB issue will not occur during firing, but only happens when putting rearward pressure on the muzzle/slide or press checking and allowing the slide to move gently forward. It can be put back into battery by pushing the slide forward, and even by shaking the gun. The pulling of the trigger is NOT how you should put the gun back into battery, but what would occur if you did not know the gun was out of battery and you needed to use the gun in a SD situation.

If you check your gun, it will likely always go into battery, without a mag inserted. What causes the gun to stay out of battery is the upwards pressure, of the top cartridge in a fully loaded magazine, putting pressure on the underside of the slide plus the friction between the trigger bar reset tab contacting the reset cam/bump in the slide.

Bob


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdxAMLDFSZc

 

[1hatchet]

Bob, thank you for the video and explanation.

 

[hokiefyd]

If you check your gun, it will likely always go into battery, without a mag inserted. What causes the gun to stay out of battery is the upwards pressure, of the top cartridge in a fully loaded magazine, putting pressure on the underside of the slide plus the friction between the trigger bar reset tab contacting the reset cam/bump in the slide.

Bob, thanks for the info! I wonder if it's possible to polish the round-stripping rib on the underside of the slide to reduce the friction there.

 

[Saudade]

Think a moment about what takes place when you start to pull the slide back... the barrel drops and begins to cam downward. When you press down on the barrel block, you're making it move on the cams backwards and down, like it's designed to do.

If you had the hand strength of the incredible Hulk to easily over come the recoil spring tension, you could probably do the same thing to a full sized M&P, or any other pistol... the smaller Shield is just easier.

Out of curiosity... I just unlocked my unloaded Glock 22 by pressing down and backwards (with moderate effort) on the top of the barrel block. I'd try it on my full size M&P's but at this hour of the night, I'm too lazy to go pull them from my safe.

With some moderate effort, I can get my Shield 9 to move in the same manner. I would expect it to as Gunhacker describes above.

You can see the difference in the lugs with the Shield on the left and the Compact and FS next to it.

 

[Saudade]

Bob, thanks for the info! I wonder if it's possible to polish the round-stripping rib on the underside of the slide to reduce the friction there.

Mine no longer does this. I have about 150 rounds through it. Also make sure your breech face is clean. The round is still sliding across it until complete lockup.

 

[chipking]

Oh goody I can just see it now in the next Jackie Chan adventure movie. Our hero is facing an armed assailant but this time it is a S&W Shield so instead of reaching up and removing the slide before the bad guy can pull the trigger he places his thumb on the barrel hood and disables the pistol and then gives the famous grin.
Sorry couldn't resist.
I would suspect you can do the same with a majority of semiautos that use the cammed up barrel to lock.
Chip King

 

[Rastoff]

Shield 40 here and pulling up and pushing down on the front of the barrel (empty chamber and no magazine installed) has less than 1/64 inch play, so no mine doesn't do that. I have a very close fit between slide and rails.

No Bob, he's talking about the chamber, not the muzzle.

All of these striker fired gun with this type of lock up will do this. It's due to the way the locking lugs work.

This is one benefit to the 1911 barrel link. Because it's straight up and down when the slide is closed, the chamber cannot be pushed down in this fashion.

 

[Rastoff]

If you check your gun, it will likely always go into battery, without a mag inserted. What causes the gun to stay out of battery is the upwards pressure, of the top cartridge in a fully loaded magazine, putting pressure on the underside of the slide plus the friction between the trigger bar reset tab contacting the reset cam/bump in the slide.

Bob

Nice video, but there's a missing aspect to your chamber check. When doing a chamber check on any semi-auto, push the slide closed. Most gun slides won't stay back, but some do. By pushing the slide forward after the chamber check, any concern about the gun not going into battery after the check is alleviated. This works with any gun.

 

[hokiefyd]

Bob, thanks for the info! I wonder if it's possible to polish the round-stripping rib on the underside of the slide to reduce the friction there.

Bob, not that I doubted what you said, but I confirmed it this evening. With a snap cap in the chamber, and the magazine full of real rounds, I can push the slide out of battery and it won't return to battery on its own. I have to push it back into battery.

But if I remove the magazine and then push the slide out of battery, it will return to battery on its own. Very interesting. I continue to wonder if there's a way to polish the underside of that loading lug to prevent this from happening. Not that it's really a big deal, but I don't see how polishing the underside of that loading lug can hurt anything, right?