Cannon safe won't open, LEO needs help

In 2012 a forum member and very good friend passed away. His widow didn't know the combo of his safe and didn't know where it was written down. She had no idea what may have been in the safe-as it was there were about 35 firearms stacked/cases in rugs, etc in the basement.

I found a highly recommended locksmith, he came over and opened the safe. I bought the safe from the widow and when the locksmith asked if I wanted an electronic combo lock I asked for his recommendation, he suggested no. He drilled the old, came to my house to install the new after I moved it. I also keep a flashlight on top so I can read the dial lol.
 
I have a Cannon safe that is over thirty years old, and two National Security safes that are slightly newer (25 years plus). All are equipped with the old standard S & G dial locks. Never a problem with any of them. Any item that you rely on which depends on battery or electric power WILL fail at some point in time. This includes computers, GPS, gun sights, etc.. You are not prepared if you are trusting your family's safety to a battery. Just my two cents worth.
 
Last edited:
Since this has evolved in to a discussion as much as a "HELP" thread, I'm awfully curious about the number of stated instances where folks have apparently had a safe-smith drill their safe to bypass a broken lock.

I realize that you have to drill in the correct place and if you drill in the wrong place, a fail-safe lock seals your fate and makes the safe NOT openable by any method other than physically cutting the side of the container open. I have seen and understand how this fail-safe works.

Which certainly leads me to ask... if the safe-smith knows where to drill and does, and then replaces the broken lock, you are left with a safe with a hole in exactly the correct spot to do it again. And while that hole can be welded shut, can it be finished so well that the location of the hole isn't noticeable?

It seems that if I ever found myself in the awful position of being locked out of my safe, the only correct answer after a professional has made forced entry is a new safe or at least an entirely new door at minimum.

Thoughts?
 
Sevens said:
Since this has evolved in to a discussion as much as a "HELP" thread, I'm awfully curious about the number of stated instances where folks have apparently had a safe-smith drill their safe to bypass a broken lock.

I realize that you have to drill in the correct place and if you drill in the wrong place, a fail-safe lock seals your fate and makes the safe NOT openable by any method other than physically cutting the side of the container open. I have seen and understand how this fail-safe works.

Which certainly leads me to ask... if the safe-smith knows where to drill and does, and then replaces the broken lock, you are left with a safe with a hole in exactly the correct spot to do it again. And while that hole can be welded shut, can it be finished so well that the location of the hole isn't noticeable?

It seems that if I ever found myself in the awful position of being locked out of my safe, the only correct answer after a professional has made forced entry is a new safe or at least an entirely new door at minimum.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

The hole that needs to be drilled is done under the lock itself. The hole should be plugged with a hardened steel taper pin. Ground flush and then epoxied. I would hate to try and drill the same again. Sometimes two holes are required.
 
I have a 25+ years old liberty safe with a mechanical combination lock. I have to use reading glasses and a flashlight to open it. I could read the dial when I bought it. I'll never complain again.
 
Strange as this may read,my safe failed to lock this morning.New battery did not help.I called Cannon and they are sending me a new part for the door and a new lock.The girl I spoke with was helpful,polite,knowledgeable and a pleasure to speak with.This is only my second phone call to Cannon in many years and I have no complaints on the service and they have been very understanding as I explained my problem.I am very happy with their employees and my parts are 3-4 weeks out.Two different employees,two positive reviews from me.
 
Sevens said:
Since this has evolved in to a discussion as much as a "HELP" thread, I'm awfully curious about the number of stated instances where folks have apparently had a safe-smith drill their safe to bypass a broken lock.

I realize that you have to drill in the correct place and if you drill in the wrong place, a fail-safe lock seals your fate and makes the safe NOT openable by any method other than physically cutting the side of the container open. I have seen and understand how this fail-safe works.

Which certainly leads me to ask... if the safe-smith knows where to drill and does, and then replaces the broken lock, you are left with a safe with a hole in exactly the correct spot to do it again. And while that hole can be welded shut, can it be finished so well that the location of the hole isn't noticeable?

It seems that if I ever found myself in the awful position of being locked out of my safe, the only correct answer after a professional has made forced entry is a new safe or at least an entirely new door at minimum.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

You are correct. The hole in the correct place remains with an epoxy plug painted to match in place. If you don't know it is there, (nobody here will say a word I am sure) it is unlikely a common thief would know it is there. The home alarm is the first line of defense.
 
windypoint said:
You are correct. The hole in the correct place remains with an epoxy plug painted to match in place. If you don't know it is there, (nobody here will say a word I am sure) it is unlikely a common thief would know it is there. The home alarm is the first line of defense.
Click to expand...

We really don’t need to drift off topic, but it’s a common misconception that alarms are the first line of defense. They are not.

Of course alarm companies and video camera companies would like you to believe so.

Your first line of defense are your doors and windows.
 
Sevens said:
Since this has evolved in to a discussion as much as a "HELP" thread, I'm awfully curious about the number of stated instances where folks have apparently had a safe-smith drill their safe to bypass a broken lock.

I realize that you have to drill in the correct place and if you drill in the wrong place, a fail-safe lock seals your fate and makes the safe NOT openable by any method other than physically cutting the side of the container open. I have seen and understand how this fail-safe works.

Which certainly leads me to ask... if the safe-smith knows where to drill and does, and then replaces the broken lock, you are left with a safe with a hole in exactly the correct spot to do it again. And while that hole can be welded shut, can it be finished so well that the location of the hole isn't noticeable?

It seems that if I ever found myself in the awful position of being locked out of my safe, the only correct answer after a professional has made forced entry is a new safe or at least an entirely new door at minimum.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

To add to my earlier post, almost all of the attempted safe break ins I’ve seen over the years have been attempted by amateurs.

Most of the time they break off the handle and/or the dial. The two very things you need to open the safe.:rolleyes:

Sometimes they use torches or gas operated saws. If it’s a good safe, they usually don’t get in.

If they try to punch the lock through, a secondary locking device called a “relocker” takes over making things extremely difficult. A good safe man can overcome this and get the safe opened and repaired.

I have never seen an American made gun safe that did not have a relocker. Gun safes made in China usually don’t.
 
Last edited:
I bought a Cannon safe a few years ago that had the digital/dial combo on it. I never trusted the digital. The digital died so I contacted Cannon. After they were convinced that I had followed their instructions and still wasn't able to get the digital to work, we went to step 2.
Step 2 was to send a locksmith out on their dime. Locksmith knew what he was doing and I had him replace the Cannon lock with a S&G combination lock.
It works great now.
 
Interesting read and hope the OP's son got his safe open. Makes me glad I spent the extra money on the EMP (digital/mechanical) lock on my Cannon.
 
Sevens said:
Since this has evolved in to a discussion as much as a "HELP" thread, I'm awfully curious about the number of stated instances where folks have apparently had a safe-smith drill their safe to bypass a broken lock.

I realize that you have to drill in the correct place and if you drill in the wrong place, a fail-safe lock seals your fate and makes the safe NOT openable by any method other than physically cutting the side of the container open. I have seen and understand how this fail-safe works.

Which certainly leads me to ask... if the safe-smith knows where to drill and does, and then replaces the broken lock, you are left with a safe with a hole in exactly the correct spot to do it again. And while that hole can be welded shut, can it be finished so well that the location of the hole isn't noticeable?

It seems that if I ever found myself in the awful position of being locked out of my safe, the only correct answer after a professional has made forced entry is a new safe or at least an entirely new door at minimum.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I had to have my office safe drilled after some kid who was supposed to be painting my office tried to break into it and knocked the dial off :mad: Most expensive part was paying for about 10-12 bits that he used up-around $10 per bit. Hole was covered up with a plate and the new dial installed. Good to go. Had him remove the time lock mechanism (my building used to be a bank) and the safe is now 100% manual. I am perfectly comfortable with its security.
 
My safe is still not opened.
The locksmith brought another guy with him. They drilled some more. Poked around some more. Apparently the lock that is in the safe is not the lock that should have been in the safe.:mad:
When they were leaving, the older new guy said it was the first time he had not been able to open a safe.:(
Does not give me a lot of hope.
Still trying to avoid the cutting torch or Jaws tools.:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

chief38
QUESTION REGARDING MECHANICAL GUN SAFE LOCKS
Replies
6
Views
848
BigBoy99
BigBoy99
D
RE: Cannon gun safes - replacing/changing the digital lock
Replies
0
Views
367
Double-O-Dave
D
RM Vivas
NYPD - Bloomingdale Trophy - S&W .32HE #520705
Replies
3
Views
954
Truckman
Truckman
RM Vivas
NYPD - M&P #S812894 - How I Research The NYPD Guns
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
dobegrant
dobegrant
F
Shield Plus Slide Not Locking Open - not thumb
Replies
7
Views
3K
flyingbrass
F

Latest posts

Back
Top