fredj338
Member
Primers have to seat to the bottom of the pocket, not flush. With mixed brass, that can be the problem. Push harder, they wont go off.
CCI Small Pistol Primers the absolute worse! Help
- Thread starter marathonrunner
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Primers have to seat to the bottom of the pocket, not flush. With mixed brass, that can be the problem. Push harder, they wont go off.
DWARREN123
Member
Never had a problem with CCI small pistol primers.
Only primers I had trouble with lately is Winchester small pistol primers, 8 out 1,000 dead primers.
Only primers I had trouble with lately is Winchester small pistol primers, 8 out 1,000 dead primers.
OP
marathonrunner
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This time I switched back to winchester but made 20 rounds using CCI primers, but after seating them, I went back a second time to give them another push upwards with my hand priming tool.
On a side note, I just worked out how much I can buy factory ammo at 1000 rounds vs reloading and I save $20 to $40 per 1000 rounds! Yikes definitely not worth reloading..lol
Hard Primers
I recently installed a "D" spring in my Beretta M9. In comparing CCI primers to Federal primers, I did notice a larger indent in the fired Federal primers than those in the CCI primers. However, all the CCI primers ignited without incident.
I bought a box of Federal ammo in the event I use this gun for home/self defense. I'm not taking chances.
I recently installed a "D" spring in my Beretta M9. In comparing CCI primers to Federal primers, I did notice a larger indent in the fired Federal primers than those in the CCI primers. However, all the CCI primers ignited without incident.
I bought a box of Federal ammo in the event I use this gun for home/self defense. I'm not taking chances.
Good idea. Better yet, prime 50 or a hundred on the press to be sure they're uniform and eliminate that variable.
CCI are harder than Federal primers, but yield 100% reliability for all 9mm loads. Loading for revolver's a different story. For ANY of my revolvers, I ONLY use Federal primers as they're softer and ignite first strike. I went away from CCI because of this, only use Federal primers these days.
sarg1c
US Veteran
Been using CCI for 40+ yrs... Never a problem. Try a different supply ,if still same problem have your weapon checked for another problem...
schutzen-jager
Member
thousands used over 5 decades + never one problem - light strikes probably a firearm problem + not primer related -
psquarejr
Member
I have never had a problem with CCI primers or any other brand, CCI is my first choice when I buy primers, but if my dealer is out of them, I will use a different brand. I agree with previous posters, there is another issue besides the primers themselves.
I purchased my first primers in 1969; CCI small pistol. I have been reloading off and on since then and the only problems I've encountered were my fault (IIRC, I found one primer without an anvil). I have used CCI small primers in 380 auto, 9mm, 38 Special, 357 Magnum, and 45 ACP in 11 different guns. I have even used CCI small pistol primers in some experimental .223 loads...
oddshooter
Member
I've had light strikes that didn't go off, but it wasn't the primers. It was the gun.
It's always possible there was a bad batch of anything made. I have been handloading for years and using CCI with great success. I chose CCI because I shoot hotter loads on occasion and had seen softer primers flow back. I even starting using small RIFLE primers for my 357 Maximum because they were even harder. So harder is neither bad nor good.
This year I was using a .32 revolver with a light trigger and a light strike and getting failure to fire every 2nd round, using harder CCI. Even a second strike or third would not ignite them. It was definitely the revolver that was right on the edge of too light of a hammer fall. I switched to a soft Federal primer and was able to get consistent ignition without tuning up the revolver.
I don't like building custom ammo for one gun, so that revolver will get worked over eventually.
Prescut
It's always possible there was a bad batch of anything made. I have been handloading for years and using CCI with great success. I chose CCI because I shoot hotter loads on occasion and had seen softer primers flow back. I even starting using small RIFLE primers for my 357 Maximum because they were even harder. So harder is neither bad nor good.
This year I was using a .32 revolver with a light trigger and a light strike and getting failure to fire every 2nd round, using harder CCI. Even a second strike or third would not ignite them. It was definitely the revolver that was right on the edge of too light of a hammer fall. I switched to a soft Federal primer and was able to get consistent ignition without tuning up the revolver.
I don't like building custom ammo for one gun, so that revolver will get worked over eventually.
Prescut
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Not really off topic as it has to do with hand priming tools that many of us use...
I used the original Lee round primer tray models for many years. These were what I refer to as the "dangerous" versions, but they were worked better than the later "safe" models and the clear plastic covers weren't prone to breakage like the later square-tray versions. The potential danger of the original round tray models was well-documented by Lee's testing and written up and published both by Lee and in at least one real paper gun publication; long before the Internet so there were no self-anointed sedentary experts involved.
I'm sure many of us that used the "dangerous" models found that after years of use, parts would wear (due to us owners neglecting to lubricate tool parts) and primers would no longer fully seat reliably all of the time.
I finally threw away my round tray Lee's as they were too worn to use. I tried the square tray models which were largely junk and quickly threw them away, too.
I tried two of the RCBS Universals; neither would seat primers with 100% reliability. I returned them. The other RCBS model that used shellholders was a much better tool even if it was more trouble to switch things over.
There are other handheld priming tools out there that have primer magazines; whether or not they also have shortcomings or work perfectly, I don't know, but it's important to make sure you're getting fully seated primers with whatever hand priming tool you use.
For the last couple of years or so, I've used a 21st Century priming tool. Like the Sinclair in that it's expensive and one primer at a time (no magazine but not nearly as slow as some think), it will seat primers properly all the time without attendant problems.
I used the original Lee round primer tray models for many years. These were what I refer to as the "dangerous" versions, but they were worked better than the later "safe" models and the clear plastic covers weren't prone to breakage like the later square-tray versions. The potential danger of the original round tray models was well-documented by Lee's testing and written up and published both by Lee and in at least one real paper gun publication; long before the Internet so there were no self-anointed sedentary experts involved.
I'm sure many of us that used the "dangerous" models found that after years of use, parts would wear (due to us owners neglecting to lubricate tool parts) and primers would no longer fully seat reliably all of the time.
I finally threw away my round tray Lee's as they were too worn to use. I tried the square tray models which were largely junk and quickly threw them away, too.
I tried two of the RCBS Universals; neither would seat primers with 100% reliability. I returned them. The other RCBS model that used shellholders was a much better tool even if it was more trouble to switch things over.
There are other handheld priming tools out there that have primer magazines; whether or not they also have shortcomings or work perfectly, I don't know, but it's important to make sure you're getting fully seated primers with whatever hand priming tool you use.
For the last couple of years or so, I've used a 21st Century priming tool. Like the Sinclair in that it's expensive and one primer at a time (no magazine but not nearly as slow as some think), it will seat primers properly all the time without attendant problems.
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gwpercle
Member
Seat those primers until they hit the bottom of the pocket .
Ease up on the lever and spin the case 1/2 turn in the shell holder and press the primer in again to make sure it's fully seated and not cock-eyed .
This cured all my "light strikes" and "hard primers"...try it .
Little hand primers don't develop a lot of power like a press so you have to pay attention to how deep the primers are goin in.
Gary
Ease up on the lever and spin the case 1/2 turn in the shell holder and press the primer in again to make sure it's fully seated and not cock-eyed .
This cured all my "light strikes" and "hard primers"...try it .
Little hand primers don't develop a lot of power like a press so you have to pay attention to how deep the primers are goin in.
Gary
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scooter123
Member
IMO that bit about CCI primers being "hard" is an internet myth. I will grant that the CCI Magnum primers are a touch harder than the Standard primers but it's almost a splitting a hair difference.
How can I be so certain of this, plain old experience. Now, this is a bit of a winding path so pay attention, those who post replies clearly showing ignorance of this winding path will get a yardstick busted across the back of their hand. Something that should still be used to motivate students paying attention. Yeah, it stings but only for a moment.
I clean my fired casing using stainless steel pins and the pins I use require flash holes that are 0.82 inch in diameter to insure that two pins won't jam in the flash hole. There is one single brand of commercial ammunition that I have found that universally have flash holes sized to 0.082 inch diameter. That brand is Remington UMC. So, any time I need to refresh my brass I pick up some bulk packs of Remington UMC and shoot them for nice fresh brass.
So I have shot a lot of Remington UMC in 38 special, 9mm, 40 S&W, and 45 ACP. I also have S&W revolvers in all of these calibers and I like to tune my revolvers to a consistent trigger weight. Back when I cleaned my brass in walnut shell media I could tune my revolvers to a consistent 8 lbs. DA trigger weight. Note, I have ALWAYS loaded with CCI Primers and did discover that a 7 lbs 14 ounce trigger pull on my 620 was occasionally unreliable with CCI 550 primers. Retuning to 8.000 lbs. solved that problem. After I found that REmington was thoughtfull enough to size their flash holes I found that 8.0 lbs was just too light, had lots of issues with misfires. Actually had to shoot Single Action with my 625 to use up the UMC I had with me. Experimentation led me to find that a 9.0 lbs DA trigger weight was what was necessary to light off Remington UMC. So I now have all of my revolvers tuned to a 9.0 lbs DA trigger weight.
PS: my 40 S&W caliber revolver is the 610, yeah it doesn't just shoot 10mm. I do shoot 357 Magnums and for those I use Starline brass and drill the flash holes out to a 0.082 inch diameter. Which is a royal PITA but if you load a case with a flash hole jammed by some stainless steel pins it isn't going to fire.
How can I be so certain of this, plain old experience. Now, this is a bit of a winding path so pay attention, those who post replies clearly showing ignorance of this winding path will get a yardstick busted across the back of their hand. Something that should still be used to motivate students paying attention. Yeah, it stings but only for a moment.
I clean my fired casing using stainless steel pins and the pins I use require flash holes that are 0.82 inch in diameter to insure that two pins won't jam in the flash hole. There is one single brand of commercial ammunition that I have found that universally have flash holes sized to 0.082 inch diameter. That brand is Remington UMC. So, any time I need to refresh my brass I pick up some bulk packs of Remington UMC and shoot them for nice fresh brass.
So I have shot a lot of Remington UMC in 38 special, 9mm, 40 S&W, and 45 ACP. I also have S&W revolvers in all of these calibers and I like to tune my revolvers to a consistent trigger weight. Back when I cleaned my brass in walnut shell media I could tune my revolvers to a consistent 8 lbs. DA trigger weight. Note, I have ALWAYS loaded with CCI Primers and did discover that a 7 lbs 14 ounce trigger pull on my 620 was occasionally unreliable with CCI 550 primers. Retuning to 8.000 lbs. solved that problem. After I found that REmington was thoughtfull enough to size their flash holes I found that 8.0 lbs was just too light, had lots of issues with misfires. Actually had to shoot Single Action with my 625 to use up the UMC I had with me. Experimentation led me to find that a 9.0 lbs DA trigger weight was what was necessary to light off Remington UMC. So I now have all of my revolvers tuned to a 9.0 lbs DA trigger weight.
PS: my 40 S&W caliber revolver is the 610, yeah it doesn't just shoot 10mm. I do shoot 357 Magnums and for those I use Starline brass and drill the flash holes out to a 0.082 inch diameter. Which is a royal PITA but if you load a case with a flash hole jammed by some stainless steel pins it isn't going to fire.
The great thing about forums is that learnings and experiences help document for others so they can learn.
But this sword cuts both ways: We now have a thread whose title bashes a product. When in reality the root of the OP's issue very well might be an issue with how the product is being used.....not the product itself. The only way some future person might realize this is by reading all the responses.
But this sword cuts both ways: We now have a thread whose title bashes a product. When in reality the root of the OP's issue very well might be an issue with how the product is being used.....not the product itself. The only way some future person might realize this is by reading all the responses.
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fredj338
Member
Savng money depends a lot on what & how you buy components. Yes for 9mm you save less but consider I can load 357sig for the same cost as 9mm or 45 for a couple pennies more than 9. Worth it for me.
Qc Pistolero
Member
When PPC was popular,guys around here would all go for Federal.CCI they said have a harder cup.But we are talking about mostly model 10 highly customized with a light double action(shorter arc)pull.
Most of my handguns have a lightly tuned action and all of them will light up CCI reliably.
A bad batch is also possible.I have had a problem with Winchester large rifle primers at a ratio of aprox 4%.That's huge for primers are normally reliable at way over 999/1000
Most of my handguns have a lightly tuned action and all of them will light up CCI reliably.
A bad batch is also possible.I have had a problem with Winchester large rifle primers at a ratio of aprox 4%.That's huge for primers are normally reliable at way over 999/1000
38SPL HV
Member
Never had a problem with CCI primers once I started using a hand held primer.
I do the hand prime thing also.................
Prime ten cases and put them on a table top and see if they wobble, any.
A weak hand or worn plastic part can cause the primer to not seat fully.
Add a drop of oil to the unit also to smooth it up and help in seating the primer.
If you still have problems a new case holder might be in order ?
Good luck.
Prime ten cases and put them on a table top and see if they wobble, any.
A weak hand or worn plastic part can cause the primer to not seat fully.
Add a drop of oil to the unit also to smooth it up and help in seating the primer.
If you still have problems a new case holder might be in order ?
Good luck.
