Charter Arms advice

[mikerjf]

Got a Bridgeport Bulldog that’s worn, issue was the trigger “locking up” i.e. couldn’t be pulled thru. Discovered cylinder latch was retracting and then being allowed to re-engage the cylinder before it had started to turn. Wear on the latch and trigger.

So, cyl latch and trigger replaced. Also trigger pin, which had a bent look to it (affects geometry).

Now, DA generally works; SA will occasionally lock up while cocking the hammer.

It looks like the hand is pushing on the ratchet while the new cyl latch is not retracted enough to release the cylinder. I assume this is happening only in SA because the cocking hammer pushing on the trigger assy (which drives both the hand and cyl latch) is somehow affecting tolerances.

I feel the right fix is to file the top of the cyl latch a little, to make it release slightly earlier and introduce a little more “slack” into the system. The hand is harder to access and possibly has an important shape. The ratchet is something I’d hate to touch.

Any advice? I’m feeling a Trainwreck-like urge to learn and fix it myself.

 

[Narragansett]

Why not send it to Charter Arms to fix?

 

[Devil in the Shade]

Never owned a Charter arms in my life. Not that I was against them, just did not realize just how nice they are now. I had read they have new CNC machines and polishing etc. But ordered the New coyote 380, like he so much I ordered another one. One with DA/SA and one DOA. The dao is only 8lbs of pull. Totally reliable.
The customer service is fantastic. I had a issue with my LGS and called Charter arms. They picked up right away, friendly, and got into a con conversation with one of the reps and he sent me two new trigger springs to try out at no charge. (complete assembled spring,
I love these guns. Just ordered 15 more moon clips to go with the 10 I already have.

 

[mikerjf]

See last sentence. Plus I’ve already had it apart several times and am past that part of the learning curve, and mailing guns is not cheap, etc. This is a good opportunity to pick up some wheelgun knowledge.

It’s a complex system so far as interaction, lots of subtleties. If they had used ONE more pin, it would be a lot easier to work on!

 

[Protocall_Design]

Can you show us a picture of the lockworks? Especially detailing where the trigger and cylinder stop interact. it looks like you will have to just lay the parts out on the table, as it doesn't look like there is a sideplate.

 

[mikerjf]

Found this pic online, helpful.

 

[mikerjf]

You can see the transfer bar at the back of the trigger… the hand is similar but attaches on the left side.

In both SA and DA, the trigger drives both the hand and the cyl latch. The only change is the force applied to the trigger… DA it’s pushed rearward by your finger, SA it’s pushed upward (at the rear) by the hammer. But I see no slop in the trigger pivot.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I would say lowering the height of the cylinder stop would be the easiest solution, if that would leave enough material to engage the cylinder notch in a positive manner.

 

[SASFixer]

I have worked with Charter Arms for 20 years, I have always had good results with their customer service. The person on the phone will have a New England accent.

 

[WR Moore]

Your problem is likely the interface between the trigger nose and how/where it meets the cylinder stop. You might consider a new cylinder stop first.

 

[Shotguncoach]

I agree with Protocall_Design that you’re going in the right direction. I’d suggest checking the width of the new cylinder stop compared to the cylinder notches and the frame window just to make sure it’s not hanging up because it’s too wide also. Do that before you reduce the height…it would suck to find out it was too wide after you made the stop shorter.

From the picture it looks like there is a spring loaded plunger that bears on the other end of the cylinder stop. Make sure that moves freely also and allows full movement if the stop.

 

[mikerjf]

Width is ok, it locks up fully.

Yes, there’s a plunger on the other end; seems to be doing its job.

WR: stop and trigger are both new. Hand is old.

DA works pretty well, so the only difference from SA is the vector from which force is applied to the trigger assembly, if that makes sense.

Thanks all, will try filing the cyl latch a “leetle leetle bit” and watch for behavior change. It’s a cheap part so I can’t go too wrong.

 

[Nick43]

I have a CA 9mm Pitbull. When I asked about having the barrel upgraded to 4" they said "no problem" and turnaround time was about two weeks if I remember correctly. The lady I spoke with on the phone was terrific and very knowledgeable. BTW, I love my Pitbull! Only problems: the matte finish is a PITA to clean up after a trip to the range and if you don't keep the cylinder bores clean, it'll give you fits when you eject the spent casings.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

Any advice?

I would trade it for a S&W or at least down payment for a S&W.

 

[DWalt]

If it’s a Bridgeport, you should get it fixed and keep it. I sort of track Bridgeport .44 Bulldogs, would appreciate knowing the SN of yours. You can put xx as the last two numerals. So far, it seems that all Bridgeport Bulldogs were made during the 1972-74 (?) period in the imprecise SN range of 17xxxx-32xxxx. Good factory serial number records do not exist, and there are many other Bridgeport revolvers in that same SN range besides Bulldogs. So the exact number of Bridgeport .44 Bulldogs made is unknown and possibly always will be. My guess is in the 10K to 20K range but with no substantiation.

 

[Capt29]

I have an "original" CA Undercover. 3 digit serial number. Got it in 65 IIRC; still shoots very well. Later got a 44 Bulldog. Foolishly loaned it to another Chicago cop who reloaded, and apparently heavily. just got the "Boomer" a 2" 44 with no front sight. Going to put a shotgun bead in the front of the rear notch. When they named it they were right, kind of lights up ones life.
Charter builds some basic realistically priced revolvers. Have had good service from my 3.

 

[eb07]

I was told by someone whose advice I trust ( Nelson Ford) when I inquired about a trigger job on my Bulldog...... that the parts are case hardened cast steel and cannot be polished without risking cracking the cased layer. Just something to think about if you intend to go this route.

 

[mikerjf]

I seem to recall that the “Boomer” was named after the CEO’s dog, who was found chewing on the prototype… no idea if that’s true, but cute story.