Charter Arms advice

mikerjf

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Got a Bridgeport Bulldog that’s worn, issue was the trigger “locking up” i.e. couldn’t be pulled thru. Discovered cylinder latch was retracting and then being allowed to re-engage the cylinder before it had started to turn. Wear on the latch and trigger.

So, cyl latch and trigger replaced. Also trigger pin, which had a bent look to it (affects geometry).

Now, DA generally works; SA will occasionally lock up while cocking the hammer.

It looks like the hand is pushing on the ratchet while the new cyl latch is not retracted enough to release the cylinder. I assume this is happening only in SA because the cocking hammer pushing on the trigger assy (which drives both the hand and cyl latch) is somehow affecting tolerances.

I feel the right fix is to file the top of the cyl latch a little, to make it release slightly earlier and introduce a little more “slack” into the system. The hand is harder to access and possibly has an important shape. The ratchet is something I’d hate to touch.

Any advice? I’m feeling a Trainwreck-like urge to learn and fix it myself.
 
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Never owned a Charter arms in my life. Not that I was against them, just did not realize just how nice they are now. I had read they have new CNC machines and polishing etc. But ordered the New coyote 380, like he so much I ordered another one. One with DA/SA and one DOA. The dao is only 8lbs of pull. Totally reliable.
The customer service is fantastic. I had a issue with my LGS and called Charter arms. They picked up right away, friendly, and got into a con conversation with one of the reps and he sent me two new trigger springs to try out at no charge. (complete assembled spring,
I love these guns. Just ordered 15 more moon clips to go with the 10 I already have.

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See last sentence. Plus I’ve already had it apart several times and am past that part of the learning curve, and mailing guns is not cheap, etc. This is a good opportunity to pick up some wheelgun knowledge.

It’s a complex system so far as interaction, lots of subtleties. If they had used ONE more pin, it would be a lot easier to work on!
 
You can see the transfer bar at the back of the trigger… the hand is similar but attaches on the left side.

In both SA and DA, the trigger drives both the hand and the cyl latch. The only change is the force applied to the trigger… DA it’s pushed rearward by your finger, SA it’s pushed upward (at the rear) by the hammer. But I see no slop in the trigger pivot.
 
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Your problem is likely the interface between the trigger nose and how/where it meets the cylinder stop. You might consider a new cylinder stop first.
 
I agree with Protocall_Design that you’re going in the right direction. I’d suggest checking the width of the new cylinder stop compared to the cylinder notches and the frame window just to make sure it’s not hanging up because it’s too wide also. Do that before you reduce the height…it would suck to find out it was too wide after you made the stop shorter.

From the picture it looks like there is a spring loaded plunger that bears on the other end of the cylinder stop. Make sure that moves freely also and allows full movement if the stop.
 
Width is ok, it locks up fully.

Yes, there’s a plunger on the other end; seems to be doing its job.

WR: stop and trigger are both new. Hand is old.

DA works pretty well, so the only difference from SA is the vector from which force is applied to the trigger assembly, if that makes sense.

Thanks all, will try filing the cyl latch a “leetle leetle bit” and watch for behavior change. It’s a cheap part so I can’t go too wrong.
 
I have a CA 9mm Pitbull. When I asked about having the barrel upgraded to 4" they said "no problem" and turnaround time was about two weeks if I remember correctly. The lady I spoke with on the phone was terrific and very knowledgeable. BTW, I love my Pitbull! Only problems: the matte finish is a PITA to clean up after a trip to the range and if you don't keep the cylinder bores clean, it'll give you fits when you eject the spent casings.
 
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