Coating a revolver

[capttom]

Here are a host of questions about one of my J frames. I have a 40-45 year old S&W Model 38, the airweight shrouded hammer .38 Sp. It has nickel plating that's badly peeling on the back and front strap, the front of the cylinder, the frame surrounding the barrel, and the muzzle. The sideplate has started to bubble under the plating. Thus, it has surface problems with steel and aluminum. Not liking bright finishes, I'd like to get the revolver professionally blued, but that isn't possible from an economic standpoint. I'm thinking instead of getting the Smith bead blasted and then using something like DuraCoat. I have a friend who would do the blasting in his shop.
How feasible is the project? I suppose it would have to be totally stripped, but that's not a problem, at least for the frame; I can get the itty-bitty parts and springs out and back in. Is there anything of which to be wary? Would the blasting be sufficient for the nickel? What about the cylinder and ejector rod and the front locking piece. Do I have to worry about those springs? Or do I just send it to a shop to get this work done?
Thanks.

 

[john traveler]

In my opinion, beadblasting an aluminum framed handgun and Duracoating would not be a good idea. You would have adhesion problems. Some thirty-something years ago I stripped the military ornance enamel finish off an FN-49 rifle and used Gun Kote (predecessor of Duracoat) on it. It still looks good today, after much knocking around. The difference is that the FN-49 was parkerized under the ordnance enamel, and the Gun Kote adhered beautifily to it. Bead-blasted finishes are smoother than sandblasted or parkerized finishes.

Aluminum is best finished in hard anodizing, and for this, you need to have a professional gun refinishing shop do it. Anodizing shops without FFL won't (or can't) accept the work.

 

[Beemer-mark]

duracoat

There are many names and types for this coating but..........

I had Springfield put their coating on an aluminum frame 1911 and it's GREAT. So as long as you use the right coating I don't think that would be a problem. IMHO I would just send the complete revolver to a refinisher and have them do it. In my case Springfield was cheaper than any refinisher I could find and they completely reworked the gun, replacing springs, etc for a measly $135.

 

[sar4937]

I would be sure whoever is doing the sandblasting has never blasted ferrous metal in the media that will be used on the aluminum, otherwise it will blast iron paticles into the surface of the aluminum.

 

[scooter123]

I would really think twice before bead blasting any aluminum frame. It's very common for aluminum to be anodized, which produces an extremely hard layer of aluminum oxide that is only a few 10 thousandths thick. Any bead blasting will remove this protective layer and leave the raw aluminum exposed, which could make flame cutting a huge issue.

I would advise that you work with a gunsmith with the ability to re-anodize the frame. As for coatings, there are a multitude of color and finish options available today for anodized finishes. As I understand it, the freshly anodized part is dipped into a die bath while it's still wet from the acid bath and the die is partially incorporated into the anodized finish, making it both durable and color permanent. It's how Charter Arms gets those Blue and Pink guns. Not a color I would choose, however a dark olive drab or desert tan might make for an interesting look ans both could be done. As for the steel parts, it will work very well on the steel parts and you can probably get it color matched to common anodized finishes.

 

[HavocUSMC]

Revolver Coating

I've used both DuraCoat and Gunkote on both aluminum and steel frames. Dura Coat is OK on steel and better if you use the DuraPhos pretreatment....not good for Aluminum. I won't use DuraCoat for revolvers anymore. For revolvers I use Gunkote or ceracoat. I did my daughter's 586 frame in Gunkote gunblue and the cylinder in titanium GunKote and it looks sharp and has held up well with 4 years of use. I've also used Gunkote on aluminum with very good results.
Here in the northeast, I've done alot of old duck guns (some new ones) in gunkote and the duck hunters love it becuase it won't rust and cleans up easily. Unfortunitly, they like to shoot hard and put them up wet after the season...sort of speak. As for semi auto rifles (AR's M1A1's etc.) gunkote by far because of it's heat displacing capability.
I hope this info helps.

Semper Fi.
Guns - out

 

[capttom]

Thanks for all the advice, gang. As far as the anodizing aspect, the frame is bare metal under the plating where it's peeled. My smith said he can probably make me happy for around $100 and since I don't have much invested in this piece, I'll go ahead and get it done. The amazing thing, I saw the same gun in a similar condition at the Houston Gun Show at reliant this weekend and he wanted $450 for his. I have less than half that in my Model 38 right now. I know show prices are sometimes high, but I don't mind so much spending the money now.