Correct dies for 357 revolver?

[rockquarry]

I am wondering about the WC on the label... W is the symbol for the element tungsten (wolfram). Could WC be tungsten carbide instead of wad cutter? Maybe post a close up photo of the mouth of the sizing die?

Very few people would know such terminology. It's certainly "wadcutter" in this case.

 

[6GUNSONLY]

Imperial case wax is your friend. Lube the first two or three cases well, after that you'll probably only have to lube about every third case. I loaded pistol ammo for years without carbide dies, and even now put a little Imperial on about every fifth case. Not essential, but keeps things running a lot slicker and less effort required on the tool handle. I use a rag with a little alcohol on it to wipe cases after sizing.

 

[barkbark]

Here are pics you requested. I think these are steel and WC stands for wadcutter. Is there anything in the photos to suggest otherwise?

That looks like steel to me and I agree WC must mean wad cutter! I have no idea why my brain dredged up some long lost chemistry lesson on tungsten!

 

[glenwolde]

This is what the same vintage carbide die label looks like. It's blue. It is marked "carb". Be careful on eBay with the yellow labels. They are often marked "carbide" by sellers who have little knowledge of what they are selling.

Of course during The Great Panic, hilarity ensued...

 

[max503]

You can't load 38 special with 357 magnum dies ... the dies are Too Long !

Gary

I did not know that.

 

[Chubbs103]

You can't load 38 special with 357 magnum dies ... the dies are Too Long !

Gary

I'm not sure I would be that definitive...although with RCBS dies of this vintage my guess is you are correct. I bet everything works just fine loading .38 special right up until you go to crimp.

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

I'm not sure I would be that definitive...although with RCBS dies of this vintage my guess is you are correct. I bet everything works just fine loading .38 special right up until you go to crimp.

I've always loaded both with .357 dies. Works just fine, including crimp. Not sure I understand why you couldn't with older dies as well.

 

[rwsmith]

I have a spacer ring.......

....for my RCBS .38 Special dies. Works just fine for .357 magnum. Also, sealing wax makes a great custom fitted bullet seater. Since I load nearly everything with SWCs, i don't worry about the flat seater unless I load hollow points or RN bullets. I really need to load up some .357s. I was shooting the other day and realized that I don't really care for full .357 loads much anymore.

 

[Chubbs103]

I've got a set of RCBS steel .44 Mag dies from the same era. You are against the shell plate before you can get a crimp on a .44 Special.

I never would have believed 1/8" in case length would make a difference until I loaded my first batch of .44 Specials with this die set. I wound up replacing the sizing die with a current production carbide one from RCBS and the crimp die with a current production marked .44SPCL/.44MAG.

I needed the additional crimp die anyway, because a seat and crimp in two steps.

 

[teletech]

I actually do have an old set of .38SPL dies that are too short inside to allow you to FL resize .375 brass.

 

[Nevada Ed]

I actually do have an old set of .38SPL dies that are too short inside to allow you to FL resize .375 brass.

That is why you need a large .14" thick, flat washer, placed under your #3 die
for the correct result.

Fl resize .357 , right ?

 

[Chubbs103]

Negative.

Steel sizer dies go to the shell holder, then adjust until the ram cams over (no cam-over for carbide dies). Assuming the die body is deep enough, there shouldn't be any adjusting for different length cases.

The spacer ring or washer can be used for keeping settings for the expander and seat/crimp dies when switching between .38 Special and .357 Magnum.

 

[teletech]

That is why you need a large .14" thick, flat washer, placed under your #3 die
for the correct result.

Fl resize .357 , right ?

The brass won't go all the way into the die because the inside of the die isn't long enough, so it won't resize the last ~1/8" of the case. If you try it crushes the brass, so no, this die just isn't useful for magnum brass. It's fine, I've got other dies, but it was just a bit of a surprise.

 

[Forefinger]

I spoke an RCBS customer service rep today. I read him the set part #18207. He said that die set is so old (1979) that there are no longer any parts/replacement parts available for them, well at least from the factory.

 

[Chubbs103]

Interesting. It was probably 2-3 years ago they were still providing the adapter to run decap pins in the older style dies.

 

[WR Moore]

If the OP knows someone with a hobby lathe, they can make up a top hat to put the decapping pin in the size dies with little trouble.

 

[rwsmith]

You can buy.......

.... Redding spacer ring, .135" high from outfits that sell reloading supplies. I think it's okay to say that MidwayUSA has them for about 8 bucks.

There's also a set that includes .44 mag and a no-crimp spacer.

 

[GypsmJim]

I started reloading rifle brass in 1970. Lubing the cases, then cleaning them off, etc., to me, has always been a pita. Sure steel revolver dies will work beautifully 100% of the time, but I'm too lazy to do all that extra effort.

I've been loading .357 since 1971, using a set of $19 Lee carbide .38 spl. dies. Turn the die out 2 turns (exactly 1/8") and off you go. I have several revolves and they fir in every chamber just fine.

 

[Skeet 028]

Way back yonder I loaded with steel dies. Herter's sold a Carbide die for a reasonable price(8bucks?)I have them still in 38 and 44. REAL carbide rings too...not the little thin things they all have now

 

[maxfam]

I haven't read all of the comments, but $6 was a good price for the shell holder.