I have a Model 22-4. I also have an extra MIM hammer. I want to cut the thumb pad off the extra MIM hammer to allow the 22-4 to not be as prone to snagging. Has anyone cut one of these hammers? Run into any problems? Thanks for any information.
Cutting thumb pad off MIM hammer
- Thread starter tennexplorer
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Yes, NP at all, as above poster suggested. The raw steel will suck-up your cold-blue like a sponge.
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As I have mentioned in similar posts over the years, I'd think about ordering a NOS or ay least a used but serviceable replacement Hammer to do this on. Save the original for if & when you decide to switch it back or sell it. Just a suggestion.........
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BTW...... as strongly as one might feel about doing a "mod" today - is just how strongly they might feel about reversing it in a few years. Hence the suggestion about bobbing a replacement Hammer.
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"I also have an extra MIM hammer. I want to cut the thumb pad off the extra MIM hammer..."
Yeah, I've seen unbelievable butchery "out there".
But he's cutting it off the extra hammer and I'm sure before installing. Although he might want to install it to check for fit and then remove to cut.
But he's cutting it off the extra hammer and I'm sure before installing. Although he might want to install it to check for fit and then remove to cut.
ContinentalOp
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Aren't hammers and triggers case-hardened, not cold-blued? So you would not cold-blue the area where the hammer is bobbed—correct? So the area cut will need to be case hardened to match? Or am I missing something?
True!
After polishing with the fine abrasive wheel, the surface will still be wavy and not smooth enough nor ready for bluing as said in the video. It must have a final polish by hand with 2000 grit to level, polish and then buff, or brushed (800 to 1000 to match the hammer finish wrapped around a desk eraser).
The hammer surface is not polished like the gun, so the touch up will not look right nor match the hammer. After polishing smooth, the surface needs a brushed finish with 800 or 1000 grit sand paper to match the factory hammer surface first.
Then coat the surface with oil and randomly dab on bluing, I prefer Oxpho blue paste (Brownells). It will leave a mottled blue and straw coloring that closely resembles case colors. Sand off and try again if not happy with results.
NOTE: The side plate removal method is amateurish, to let it pop loose and clang against the frame! All those little nicks with the sharp edges of the inside machined sharp edges of the plate will show. For crying out loud, turn the gun over and let it fall free from the gun onto your padded bench surface! Common sense is not so common.
Notice he left grinding marks on the edges of the back of the hammer. Should be polished completely and even a very slight chamfer done with the fine polishing wheel (or better yet, sand paper around the eraser) so it's not a knife edge.
After polishing with the fine abrasive wheel, the surface will still be wavy and not smooth enough nor ready for bluing as said in the video. It must have a final polish by hand with 2000 grit to level, polish and then buff, or brushed (800 to 1000 to match the hammer finish wrapped around a desk eraser).
The hammer surface is not polished like the gun, so the touch up will not look right nor match the hammer. After polishing smooth, the surface needs a brushed finish with 800 or 1000 grit sand paper to match the factory hammer surface first.
Then coat the surface with oil and randomly dab on bluing, I prefer Oxpho blue paste (Brownells). It will leave a mottled blue and straw coloring that closely resembles case colors. Sand off and try again if not happy with results.
NOTE: The side plate removal method is amateurish, to let it pop loose and clang against the frame! All those little nicks with the sharp edges of the inside machined sharp edges of the plate will show. For crying out loud, turn the gun over and let it fall free from the gun onto your padded bench surface! Common sense is not so common.
Notice he left grinding marks on the edges of the back of the hammer. Should be polished completely and even a very slight chamfer done with the fine polishing wheel (or better yet, sand paper around the eraser) so it's not a knife edge.
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Don't over-think it, gents. You cut it, you smooth it and/or blend it to your taste, then cold-blue. It's not a surface that's bearing any load. Generally, the 'black' nature of the cold blue gels just fine with the dark c/c sides of the MIM part.
Besides, you're going for function, over aesthetics.
Besides, you're going for function, over aesthetics.
Right, "blend it to your taste,...." That's not overthinking it.
No, doesn't really gel.
Not all go for just function. Function and aesthetics can co-exist.
scattershot
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With a lighter hammer, I don't think you would want a lighter spring, too. Sounds like light strikes waiting to happen.
With a lighter hammer you do want a lighter mainspring. It also helps to reduce the rebound spring.
Then you have to balance them out so that the trigger returns completely when released and you have enough hammer fall to pop the primers.
Most guys I know have gone as low as 6 - 6.5 pounds double action. My last setup was 4.25 pounds with an 11 pound rebound spring. Using Federal primers I'd get 100% ignition. Heavier primers were a problem.
Also remember the sear that's in the hammer
Not sure if you have a "loaded" spare hammer but the sear doesn't always just match up sometimes you have to do some filing and fitting Lord knows how I know I have done more than a few.
If your your hammer has been in a gun before you'll usually be ok but if it's a new part then...
Not sure if you have a "loaded" spare hammer but the sear doesn't always just match up sometimes you have to do some filing and fitting Lord knows how I know I have done more than a few.
If your your hammer has been in a gun before you'll usually be ok but if it's a new part then...
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Does S&W still have, in the parts department, hammers modified to DA only with the spur removed? They used to, but it has been a long time. Remember, they had regular contracts with many LE agencies for DAO revolvers with the no spur. Were it me, I would call the parts department. Also, do not rely on a parts list as those type of special parts were not listed in the commercial parts listings.
Watched that one just the other day
