Cylinder release thumb piece

[Xatruch83]

Hi, can someone please point me in the right direction?

I replaced the trigger and hammer in my 15-3 revolver because the previous owner had jeweled them, and I found case-hardened ones on eBay, so I replaced them.
Problem I am having now is that the cylinder gets stuck, I have to cycle the gun a few times to be able to push the thumb piece and get the cylinder unstuck and even then the cylinder is hard to push out.

 

[S&W revolverman]

Check to see if the ejector rod is tight. It may have become unscrewed a little.

 

[Xatruch83]

It is. I also cleaned and oiled everything.

 

[Xatruch83]

This is How everything looks inside

 

[Muley Gil]

Sounds like you mixed up the side plate screws. The yoke screw is fitted to the yoke.

 

[afkirby]

Take a pic with the side plate off and the cylinder shut, is the bolt hitting the back of the hammer when you try to push forward on the thumb piece?

 

[Xatruch83]

Take a pic with the side plate off and the cylinder shut, is the bolt hitting the back of the hammer when you try to push forward on the thumb piece?

This is how it looks.

 

[Xatruch83]

This is how it looks.

This is a picture of the screws I have.

 

[Xatruch83]

Two things might be happening:
1. The slide release is sometimes hitting the back of the hammer.
2. The release bolt might be a bit too short.
I am not an expert in revolvers at all, so this is me using the information I've gotten from community members up to now.
Possible solutions?
- Grinding the back of the hammer a bit?
- Finding a longer bolt release?

 

[Muley Gil]

This is a picture of the screws I have.

Try putting the screw with the tiny plunger in the front (yoke) hole.

 

[jimmyj]

Is the hammer all the way down on the pin ?

 

[WR Moore]

OK, the bolt-widget that releases the cylinder-appears to actually contact the hammer when moved forward. It shouldn't do that. There should be a clearance cut in the top edge of the leg of the bolt that stops the hammer that isn't there on your bolt. [While typing this I had a problem with my 36-1 and had it open.] With the cylinder open, you should be able to slightly move the hammer backwards.

At this point you've got two choices: replace the bolt with a new one or modify your current bolt. If you remove the hammer and let the bolt go forward, mark the top of the bolt where the back edge of the hammer window is. Then, remove the bolt-be careful not to lose the plunger and spring- and file a notch abut 1/32 of an inch deep with the end where the back edge of the hammer window is.

 

[jem102]

I'm sure it's there but "I'm" not seeing the bolt plunger in place. Could just be the lighting.

 

[Xatruch83]

Is the hammer all the way down on the pin ?

Yes it is.

 

[Xatruch83]

Try putting the screw with the tiny plunger in the front (yoke) hole.

I'll do that and report.

 

[Xatruch83]

I'm sure it's there but "I'm" not seeing the bolt plunger in place. Could just be the lighting.

Bolt plunger pin is there, I am thinking it might be weak.

 

[Xatruch83]

OK, the bolt-widget that releases the cylinder-appears to actually contact the hammer when moved forward. It shouldn't do that. There should be a clearance cut in the top edge of the leg of the bolt that stops the hammer that isn't there on your bolt. [While typing this I had a problem with my 36-1 and had it open.] With the cylinder open, you should be able to slightly move the hammer backwards.

At this point you've got two choices: replace the bolt with a new one or modify your current bolt. If you remove the hammer and let the bolt go forward, mark the top of the bolt where the back edge of the hammer window is. Then, remove the bolt-be careful not to lose the plunger and spring- and file a notch abut 1/32 of an inch deep with the end where the back edge of the hammer window is.

I just ordered a new complete cylinder release, if that doesn't fix it i think the next logical step will be file one to see if that makes it work.
I think i also have to file the hammer a bit to let the bolt slide freely but I'll see if the new release is the solution.
I'll keep you all posted.

 

[muzzlestuffer2012]

I wouldn't file off the case hardening on that new hammer. Try putting the old parts back in and see if it's working properly again and look to see if there's any difference in the way the parts are fitting and interacting with each other. While you're in there you might as well give all the other parts a good polishing (properly) clean up any burrs and so on.

 

[H Richard]

One long shot, is the hammer thickness greater than the old hammer thickness? Could this cause a drag on the bolt? I do notice the hammer block is missing in all photo's, assuming you removed it for the pictures?

 

[ken158]

When you put in the new H&T did you transfer the sear from the old hammer? If using a new (different) sear, it requires fitting.