In the 4th image in message 7,it looks like the hand is protruding from the frame. This will mess up the cylinder opening and closing and cylinder rotation. It may be an N frame hand!
Cylinder release thumb piece
- Thread starter Xatruch83
- Start date
OutWest50
Member
Both H Richard and ken158 suggested a couple of important things to consider before looking further. Also, a "proud" pin on the hammer could cause enough drag to keep the hammer from fully seating.
The problem may be with the e-Bay parts you installed. Try putting the original hammer and trigger back in and see if the problem goes away.
Measured everything and put the old parts back and still same problem.
Tried and problem is still there.
Now that you mentioned it, it didn't have one when I opened.
Used the old one.
It is protruding.
I'll check the hammer pin.
Now that we know where you are, stick around and maybe a retired armorer or gunsmith in your area will pop up and offer to take a look. There are so many potential issues that could be causing your problem, a quick look could be a quick diagnosis.
I hope so. That will be amazing.
muzzlestuffer2012
Member
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Take the cylinder latch out and try again. Where do you live if in Arizona close I would be happy to look at it getting a second pair of eye's on it helps at times.
I am in Florida, Miami to be more accurate, thanks for the offer tho.
I'll try it.
dsf
Member
Looking at the shots from Post #4 and Post #7 it appears to me the camming boss on the trigger rebound unit is a tad proud. This is causing the hammer at full reset to cant back a tad too much. Which in turn causes the lower rear tail end of the hammer to rest on the top rear tab of the cylinder bolt.
It is also preventing the trigger from full resetting, which in turn is causing the hand to remain protruding from the recoil shield.
Post #4 clearly shows the trigger is not fully reset and the tail end of the hammer resting on top of the cylinder bolt. And that the rebound slide boss has been modified.
It is also preventing the trigger from full resetting, which in turn is causing the hand to remain protruding from the recoil shield.
Post #4 clearly shows the trigger is not fully reset and the tail end of the hammer resting on top of the cylinder bolt. And that the rebound slide boss has been modified.
Last edited:
dsf
Member
Cycle the action conventionally. Take your finger off the trigger. Place your finger behind the trigger and push forward. Does the trigger move forward?
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I assume you were not having this problem before you attempted to improve the revolver. Therefore, it is safe to assume the problem stems from something you did.
1. The hand should be under spring tension. Is it possible that when removed to install it in the new trigger the tension spring either got lost or did not get put properly behind the stud in the slot of the trigger? The hand should want to go forward toward the cylinder at all times. It is possible to cause the hand to become unseated from its spring by pulling it back too far when removing the trigger.
2. Unrelated to your problem, but I notice that your revolver is old enough to have the little screw for the old style trigger stop. If the trigger stop is still there, and if it is the old type that can rotate and lock up the revolver, do as S&W advised in the 1970s. Remove it. They re-designed it, but only put it in long barreled target revolvers after that. It was never again put in anything typically used for defense (K Frames with 4-inch or less barrel length). N Frames with trigger stops use an entirely different design.
3.You have the three plate screws sitting together, but a revolver of that vintage does NOT use the new style yoke screw with the spring loaded bearing. When disassembling, you are supposed to keep track of those screws and replace the one fitted to the yoke in that number 1 position. The other two are easy to figure out as the other round head goes in the number 2 position and the flat head goes in the number 3 position.
4. Make certain the ejector rod is tightened (be sure to support the locator pins). Damage one and it will have to go back to the factory.
5. If there is no hammer block (sometimes they stick to the slot in the sideplate, but usually they fall out when the plate is removed), you MUST replace it. The reason for the device is that it was a re-design in 1944 when a Navy man died as a result of a revolver dropped on the deck. Some say it is not necessary, and I have seen one idiot on YouTube who says he removes all of them on guns he works on because they "rattle." They do rattle, but at least you don't die from a dropped revolver. You will have to get a K Frame hammer block and it may need some fitting. DO NOT EVER load this revolver until that issue is addressed.
6. I see nothing wrong in your picture in Post 4. The bolt is in its correct place in that picture as the cylinder is not closed. The revolver is designed so the hammer cannot go back by either thumb-cocking or DA cocking when the cylinder is open. Obviously, this safety feature can be bypassed by holding the thumb piece in the rear position with the cylinder open.
7. The photos in Post 7: Photo 1 of 4 - If the cylinder is fully closed, something is preventing the bolt from going back to its proper position. It is hard to tell from this photo if the cylinder is fully closed. It is also hard to tell if the trigger is fully back, although that should not make a difference. The bolt should not interfere with the hammer if the cylinder is fully closed. Photo 2 of 4 - No comment. Photo 3 of 4 - No comment other than blurry, so difficult to see the kind of detail I would want to see. Photo 4 of 4 - The hand is protruding into the cylinder window. That should not occur if the action is at rest.
8. The screws in your picture in Post 8 do not look correct in that the bottom one looks to be one of the new screws that S&W now uses as the yoke screw, the one having the spring-loaded bearing. If it is, I am at a loss to understand how it was made to fit in the smaller hole in the revolvers of the era of your revolver.
Unless you want to box it up and send it to S&W for evaluation and repair, then restore the parts that came with it. Assemble correctly, and it should work like it did before you disassembled.
Are you certain it was working properly before you took it apart? You said you attempted to reassemble with original parts and it did not work correctly, but if it worked before, it should work again if you didn't do other damage.
Sorry I am not more help.
Good luck.
1. The hand should be under spring tension. Is it possible that when removed to install it in the new trigger the tension spring either got lost or did not get put properly behind the stud in the slot of the trigger? The hand should want to go forward toward the cylinder at all times. It is possible to cause the hand to become unseated from its spring by pulling it back too far when removing the trigger.
2. Unrelated to your problem, but I notice that your revolver is old enough to have the little screw for the old style trigger stop. If the trigger stop is still there, and if it is the old type that can rotate and lock up the revolver, do as S&W advised in the 1970s. Remove it. They re-designed it, but only put it in long barreled target revolvers after that. It was never again put in anything typically used for defense (K Frames with 4-inch or less barrel length). N Frames with trigger stops use an entirely different design.
3.You have the three plate screws sitting together, but a revolver of that vintage does NOT use the new style yoke screw with the spring loaded bearing. When disassembling, you are supposed to keep track of those screws and replace the one fitted to the yoke in that number 1 position. The other two are easy to figure out as the other round head goes in the number 2 position and the flat head goes in the number 3 position.
4. Make certain the ejector rod is tightened (be sure to support the locator pins). Damage one and it will have to go back to the factory.
5. If there is no hammer block (sometimes they stick to the slot in the sideplate, but usually they fall out when the plate is removed), you MUST replace it. The reason for the device is that it was a re-design in 1944 when a Navy man died as a result of a revolver dropped on the deck. Some say it is not necessary, and I have seen one idiot on YouTube who says he removes all of them on guns he works on because they "rattle." They do rattle, but at least you don't die from a dropped revolver. You will have to get a K Frame hammer block and it may need some fitting. DO NOT EVER load this revolver until that issue is addressed.
6. I see nothing wrong in your picture in Post 4. The bolt is in its correct place in that picture as the cylinder is not closed. The revolver is designed so the hammer cannot go back by either thumb-cocking or DA cocking when the cylinder is open. Obviously, this safety feature can be bypassed by holding the thumb piece in the rear position with the cylinder open.
7. The photos in Post 7: Photo 1 of 4 - If the cylinder is fully closed, something is preventing the bolt from going back to its proper position. It is hard to tell from this photo if the cylinder is fully closed. It is also hard to tell if the trigger is fully back, although that should not make a difference. The bolt should not interfere with the hammer if the cylinder is fully closed. Photo 2 of 4 - No comment. Photo 3 of 4 - No comment other than blurry, so difficult to see the kind of detail I would want to see. Photo 4 of 4 - The hand is protruding into the cylinder window. That should not occur if the action is at rest.
8. The screws in your picture in Post 8 do not look correct in that the bottom one looks to be one of the new screws that S&W now uses as the yoke screw, the one having the spring-loaded bearing. If it is, I am at a loss to understand how it was made to fit in the smaller hole in the revolvers of the era of your revolver.
Unless you want to box it up and send it to S&W for evaluation and repair, then restore the parts that came with it. Assemble correctly, and it should work like it did before you disassembled.
Are you certain it was working properly before you took it apart? You said you attempted to reassemble with original parts and it did not work correctly, but if it worked before, it should work again if you didn't do other damage.
Sorry I am not more help.
Good luck.
I finally gave up. The revolver is going to take a trip to the Smith and Wesson gunsmith service.
I hope I don't get charged a crazy amount but i want to have the revolver in the best condition possible to pass it down to my kids.
I hope I don't get charged a crazy amount but i want to have the revolver in the best condition possible to pass it down to my kids.
