Difficulty removing slide on 3rd Gen? (w/ photos)

Robinett_11B

Robinett_11B

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Seeing if anyone had any input on an issue I'm having, if it is an issue. I remove the slide stop and let the slide go forward, but it stops about a 1/2" in. The slide can be removed, but it takes a healthy nudge that I did not want to do again once the gun was apart, cleaned and reassembled.

On reassembly, the slide got "stuck" again. I don't see the 3 levers getting in the way, but they could be internally I suppose. The gun passes all safety/functions checks when reassembled. It seems to of been fired very little.

I've owned a 639, 6906 & a 4516 and didn't have this issue (that I can recall). I honestly don't have very much experience with S&W autos and none of those 3 were in my posession very long at all, but I'm hoping to keep this one for the long haul. I just don't want to mess it up and it feels like I may be doing harm to it when removing/replacing the slide.


I'm a revolver guy. I've owned a lot of semi-autos, but I always sell or trade them off. Just seems like there's so much more to go wrong on an auto...magazines, recoil springs, extractors/ejectors, etc. I just want to make sure go about this the right way. I'd appreciate any input and any other helpful hints for someone newer to S&W's 3rd Gen.


Some photos for reference:

On disassembly - goes this far forward and hit resistance
IMG_20121210_145554_zps527336eb.jpg


IMG_20121210_145612_zps91f73c37.jpg




On reassembly - same story, resistance point
IMG_20121210_145633_zps94308716.jpg


IMG_20121210_145658_zpsd61c1cc8.jpg




The innards - anything look amiss?
IMG_20121210_145232_zps4e4cf55e.jpg


IMG_20121210_145351_zpse29708d1.jpg


IMG_20121210_145453_zps967272ae.jpg


IMG_20121210_145519_zps34dd320d.jpg


Thanks, guys.
-Rob
 
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Well I'm kind of new to third gens myself, but all three of mine do the same thing. I hope all is well! Sometimes getting that dang third lever down in the back near the hammer on the right side is a pain in the rear... Oh, and I don't have luck putting the slide on when the hammer is cocked.

I think I'll download the owner's manuals for mine. They must be online somewhere.
 
I had the same problem getting the slide on. Hammer up or hammer down no difference. Start putting the slide on push the first lever down with your thumb, keep sliding back and push the second lever down keep going till the slide bumps against the third lever. Now take the back side of a pen and push the third lever down and finish pushing the slide back.

Lost Lake said:
Well I'm kind of new to third gens myself, but all three of mine do the same thing. I hope all is well! Sometimes getting that dang third lever down in the back near the hammer on the right side is a pain in the rear... Oh, and I don't have luck putting the slide on when the hammer is cocked.

I think I'll download the owner's manuals for mine. They must be online somewhere.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the input, guys. I tried cocking the hammer, and while that makes pushing down the furthest-to-the-right lever (forgive my technical ignorance) easier, it doesn't make putting the slide back on any easier.

Just feels like whatever is causing the resistance could be harmed with the amount of force it's taking. It doesn't seem like it's the recoil spring/guide rod, but it's a possibility I'm sure. Maybe it just needs to be fired more and broken in?
 
The levers on mine are all pretty easy to manipulate, and the slide "sticks" during removal too, so I don't know/think that's what could be causing it. Sounds like it's a relatively common issue, so hopefully there's an easy explanation and/or remedy.
 
Robinett_11B said:
It doesn't seem like it's the recoil spring/guide rod, but it's a possibility I'm sure.
Click to expand...

It seems to me that if the spring/guide rod is even the tiniest bit off to the side, it can hang up the slide. Whenever I'm having trouble reassembling a S&W auto, I carefully relign those parts and it usually goes right together. Never seemed to make sense to me either, but there you go.
 
The end of the guide rod is getting stuck on removal and having a hard time getting into its hole in the frame on assembly . Put some oil on the end and make sure it moves in and out freely. Don't be afraid to give it a yank to remove or a shove to assemble. I have a 6906 that 50% of the time the guide rod slips from the barrel on dis-assembly and 5 other Smiths that never do that. Just remember to get the leavers down before you shove.
 
Are you sure you are getting the back end of the guide rod assembly in exactly the right place? As I remember, on a 5906 it sits in a very tiny dish and hangs only by a tiny bit. Your picutes don't show a view of the slide without the guide rod to see if it has the dish. Check
 
dkals said:
I had the same problem getting the slide on. Hammer up or hammer down no difference. Start putting the slide on push the first lever down with your thumb, keep sliding back and push the second lever down keep going till the slide bumps against the third lever. Now take the back side of a pen and push the third lever down and finish pushing the slide back.
Click to expand...

I have to do the same but I use the small side of my cleaning brush to push it down. I would never force anything , but you may want to use light coatings of gun grease . The grease i found at Walmart is not all that great but better than nothing . I also read that the first few times you take it down It's difficult but you will get more used to it & the gun will too.
 
Being you are new to the 3rd gen pistols, I suggest using an ice cream stick or a wooden dowel, to hold all three levers down on reassembly. Makes life easier. ;)

That 3906 looks like it is brand new. I suspect that it will become a little easier to take down and put back after it has a few hundred rounds through it. Mine was very tight at first too. Mine also still takes a firm tug to get the top end off the frame. No worries.

Enjoy that fine 3906! You are going to shoot it, aren't you? ;) :) Regards 18DAI
 
I used to have re-assembly issues, until I discovered a trick to easy re-assembly. Sometimes if you try to push on the levers with your thumb one can move up before you can slide the top end over it, which results in it sticking. I now use the flat side of the slide stop pin as a straightedge for pushing down on the levers during re-assembly. That way all 3 rear levers stay 100% in the down position when you put the gun back together.
 
Last edited:
18DAI said:
Being you are new to the 3rd gen pistols, I suggest using an ice cream stick or a wooden dowel, to hold all three levers down on reassembly. Makes life easier. ;)

That 3906 looks like it is brand new. I suspect that it will become a little easier to take down and put back after it has a few hundred rounds through it. Mine was very tight at first too. Mine also still takes a firm tug to get the top end off the frame. No worries.

Enjoy that fine 3906! You are going to shoot it, aren't you? ;) :) Regards 18DAI
Click to expand...

Agreed, the very new models that I own can be sticky in and around the 3 lever zone. Plus one to having the guide rod well lubed and aligned on the correct spot of the barrel lug to avoid it from binding.

Great looking 3906 you have there.
 
Sticky slide

My 3906 was rather particular this way, too. I have several 3rd GEN pistols and have learned to pay very close attention to the guide rod. If it has become ever so slightly bent, it just adds to the challenge. Being all stainless, the frame has no forgiveness to a guide rod tip that is less than perfectly shaped. As 18DAI mentioned, some shooting will help. Seems like each of my pistols has a slightly different feel going together, due to both wear and assembly tolerances. I use a SIG armorer's tool (composite material) to help push on the slide release, hold down the "levers" on the frame when reassembling. Find something like that that will help manipulate those pieces without hurting them (or you).
XAVMECH
 
Is there any need to remove the stocks/grips for cleaning? If so, how is it done?
 
I do NOT remove the grips for cleaning...You have to knock the pin out to remove grips,which in turn releases the main spring.
 
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